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09/03/2016
A big tick.

Words by

Giulia Brugliera

Dear VAMFF Diary,

Following a fantastic Premium Runway 1, a quick break, a bunch of Snapchats and a visit to the BNKR Cube, it was time to hustle back inside the Royal Exhibition Building for Premium Runway 2. 

No, it was no cooler than before, but I did overhear someone complain about how it was the wrong day to wear a lightweight silk dress (despite it being natural, breathable and in a print that wouldn't show sweaties). 

But I digress. Hee's how Premium Runway 2 went down. 

Alice McCall

A newfound maturity has hit Alice’s designs, shifting them from little girl-y to something more refined. It was evident through a more mature palette, pixellated lace and an increased use of black. It was tougher  – as evinced by the patent knee-high boots that actually match – but those signature girly touches remained. A big tick. 

Macgraw

Despite winning design awards, these guys were yet to convince me. Until last night. Look one was a drop waist shift with a super fine stripe, followed by a pyjama-style shirt dress. Styles then shifted to something a little more equestrian, with polo necks and riding caps alluding to a strong equine influence. The third clear theme was Victorian, bringing me to the concluding description of this collection as horse-meets-sleep-meets-Victorian era. 

Life with Bird

This season’s lookbook went nuts on Fashion Journal and here are the reasons why: copper outerwear, simple cuts with textural prints, cropped bell sleeves, wrap skirts. In true Life with Bird form, cuts and lines were simple with oomph added through colour, texture and fabric. It’s their formula and it works. The run closed with a dress/coat combo with a metallic weave that caused audible (and positive) commentary. 

Manning Cartell

You can almost split Manning into two designers. One Manning loves ‘60s mod. This Manning presented two garments that looked like someone had sewed together doilies into a kewl outfit. 

The other Manning knows what sells. This Manning delivered raw-edged, drop-waist, silk dresses over burgundy leather leggings. These are no doubt already in demand if not sold out. This Manning also closed with a sequined slip dress that looked like beautiful mermaid liquid. I don’t even care if it doesn’t suit my non-model bod, I want. 

Bec & Bridge

That baby pink. In that silk. With that open back. Gah. But dear all designers everywhere, can we stop with the sheer lace pants? The duo also delivered a lacy babydoll dress, something more timeless that we haven’t yet seen from the laydays. But mainly this is all open backs, sleek tailoring and, of course, metallics.

Bianca Spender

Well, Bianca gifted us with an emerald, double breasted, sleeveless jumpsuit. It was pretty schmick, but I’m not sure anyone will ever wear it. That said, emerald is without doubt the colour of the season. Michael Lo Sordo did it. Dion did it. Now everyone is doing it. But it may be too soon for the swing jacket that Bianca presented. And perhaps also that boxy velvet maxi. 

Until next time, 

xoxo Giulia

vamff.com.au

Photography: 
Sara D'Ambrosio

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