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All glamour.

Words by

Giulia Brugliera

Yesterday’s Premium Runway Five presented by InStyle was all glamour.

On the bill were Misha Collection, Thurley, Camilla, By Johnny, Zhivago and Rachel Gilbert, with each showcasing their own interpretation of the word.

Misha Collection opened with a curve ball, delivering a rock-and-roll sexy collection. It was grungy yet romantic; a decided rejection of their usual, refined-chic looks.

By Johnny was the clear winner of the evening. His current collection nails it on all fronts, delivering flirty, feminine styles with a nod to ’50s dressing.

Thurley’s collection proved the label has really found its feet and as such, is taking strides. Embellishments were increasingly detailed, working in sync with silhouettes and lines of the fabric. It showed an increasing expertise of design and was a cut above what we’ve previously seen from the label.

White Suede delivered the ultimate power suit. As usual, the focus was on tailoring with strong, exaggerated elements adding interest to entirely wearable designs.

Zhivago gave us Evil Queen everything. As Missy Elliott’s ‘I’m Really Hot’ played, the label refused to hold back. Throwing all style rules out the window, it delivered body-clinging dresses that showed chest, legs and back. It was striking, powerful and really, really hot.

Rachel Gilbert gave us something a little unexpected this season, playing down embellishments in favour of embroidery. There were clear Victorian influences and elements reminiscent of Alice McCall’s designs. Of course, her signature beaded gowns dominated.

Camilla closed the show, delivering more structured styles for AW17. But the highlight was undoubtedly her silk, embellished bombers. If you can score one of these this season, you win. 


Lucas Dawson

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