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Is blowdrying my hair ruining my curls? I asked a hairdresser

IMAGE VIA @DAISYHENRY_/INSTAGRAM

WORDS BY DAISY HENRY

First step: put down the heat tools.

Like many curly-haired girls who have come before me, I’ve lost count of the hours spent blowdrying, straightening and re-curling my locks in an attempt to alter my hair’s natural texture.

I’d love to say this ritual was left in the 2010s like some of the other infamous beauty fads of the time (most notably overplucked eyebrows and foundation lips). But until very recently, I was using heat products weekly, rarely letting my hair air-dry naturally.


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Over time, I started to worry whether vigorously blowdrying my hair each wash was doing more harm than causing the occasional split end. I decided to take stock of my hair’s current condition and evaluate why I was so set on styling my hair every week. Did I feel unprofessional with naturally curly hair? Was I embarrassed? And exactly what beauty standards was I upholding by blow-waving my hair straight every week?

When I actually did leave my hair to dry of its own accord, the shape of the curl had visibly changed. It felt deflated, almost. While the underneath later of my hair still held its ringlets, the top layer (which had copped the full brunt of bleach and my blowdryer) was frizzy and undefined. It had changed from being curly to being wavy at best. Cue the crisis.

I panicked, thinking that I had permanently damaged my hair. More recently, I’ve started to see my curls as something that connects me to my Fijian heritage and the idea of frying them off was upsetting. So, in my hour of need, I turned to Natalia Bee, an independent hairdresser, educator and curly hair specialist. While I’d been limiting how often I used my blowdryer, I was curious about what exactly my curls need in order to be restored to their former glory.

Does curly hair have different needs than straight hair?

According to Natalia, curly hair has two key needs: protein and moisture. Both need to be in balance. Depending on your hair type, too much of either can risk damaging your hair.

“Curly hair can naturally get more brittle,” she tells me. “Plus, natural elements, like being in the sun or underneath an air conditioner all day can dry out your hair”. Because it’s drier than other hair types, a good conditioner is essential.

“[However], if you don’t give your hair enough protein, then it’s like putting moisture in a cup with holes in it,” Natalia tells me. Curly hair is more porous than straight hair, which means it can lose moisture more easily.

Protein acts as a way to strengthen the hair shaft and reduce damage. Natalia explains that if you don’t have enough protein to seal the outer layer of your hair, it won’t properly absorb or retain moisture, causing it to feel brittle, dry and frizzy.

Can heat products gradually break down your curls with extended use?

“I find it’s like a lot easier to understand with an analogy,” Natalia pre-empts. “Think of your hair as a set of roof tiles. When you wear your hair curly and it has sufficient protein and moisture, those roof tiles are all healthy and stacked tightly in the right direction.”

“The cuticle is the roof tile and when it’s in a good condition, with enough protein, the titles are strong. They aren’t broken and damaged. They lie flat, and the moisture you apply is sealing everything down. So when the hair is healthy like that, you’re creating a perfect curl.”

But when you use heat on your hair (even if you’re using a heat protectant), you risk damaging the outside of the roof tile, she explains. Each time you wash your hair, it can feel a bit drier than before because the cuticle may be more lifted or compromised. “The best thing to do in this case, is to lock in moisture,” she says.

What steps can I take to restore my natural curl?

The process of getting your hair back to a state of health doesn’t need to be complicated. “The first step would be to put down the iron,” she advises. “The second step would be to start investing in good products.”

“I don’t like having a thousand products in my cupboard – it’s confusing and then it makes the whole process feel overwhelming. But it all starts in the shower,” she tells me. “So, you need a good shampoo and a good conditioner.”

What exactly you choose depends on your curl type and texture, so Natalia suggests seeking a professional for individual advice. However, if you have thick, coarse hair, she suggests incorporating treatment into your hair, either alongside a conditioner or instead. “I use a treatment in my hair every single time I wash it,” she tells me.

How can I style my curls post-shower?

What you do after washing your hair matters, too. “When you wash your face in the shower, you’re not just going to put on your makeup straight away. Hair is very similar,” Natalia explains. This translates to using a leave-in conditioner.

“If you have curly hair and it’s super fine, then you likely need a really light leave-in conditioner… I probably would avoid curl products and stick to like leave-in conditioners as well as methods of setting it.”

While she emphasises that it can vary depending on the person, Natalia’s product of choice is the Clever Curl Cream. “It’s for people who don’t want to feel like they’ve got the product in their hair and it’s a really good price point.”

Once you’ve applied your preferred leave-in, it’s best to use a wide-tooth comb to comb your hair in the direction you want it to sit. For example, if you have a fringe, Natalia explains that you want to comb it in a forward motion, so it sits nicely around your face.

When it’s sitting the way you want it, flip your head upside down and scrunch-dry your hair. If you want to put in extra product, she suggests doing a little bit at a time and slowly working it through your hair.

How long will it take for my curls to start looking better?

“Hair can bounce back really quickly,” Natalia reassures me. The second you drop the heat styling tools, start using products that suit your hair and take care in styling it, it’s already starting to heal. Within the month, she tells me my curls should already start looking better.

“Don’t underestimate a good haircut, either” she adds. “One of the first things you could probably do if you want to start that process is get a haircut and get rid of any dead ends. That way you’re only working with what really matters.”

For more, follow Natalia here.

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