What exactly is a lash lift? Everything to know about getting an eyelash perm

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For a while, I tried to embrace my short lash life, jealously eyeing off my friends’ longer lashes. But when I discovered it was possible to perm your eyelashes, it gave me newfound hope. As Fashion Journal’s test bunny for all things perm, I was well acquainted with the power of a good perm and keen to trial one for myself.  

I booked in with Meni Sadri, co-owner of Ivy Brows and Lashes in Melbourne. Meni has been working with lashes for over 15 years, so I knew I was in good hands. 

The history of the lash lift

As Meni sat me back in the chair and started working on my face, she began explaining the nuances of the eyelash perm. What she was doing was actually now called a ‘lash lift’, the older sister of the eyelash perm.

Essentially, the eyelash perm was introduced in the early 2000s as a way to get perky and curly eyelashes that go the distance. A stylist would glue a person’s lashes to disposable cylindrical rods, apply a solution to soften the lashes, let it process, apply a neutraliser and then rinse – a process very similar to a standard hair perm.

However, Meni adds the perming solution for this traditional treatment was very strong, meaning the results were quite extreme. “I had to stop because people were like, ‘Oh my God, no, it’s too curly’,” she says.

She tells me that over time, the same company that created the eyelash perming solution altered its formula to make it more gentle. It also replaced the tight cylinders with multi-sized, reusable, silicone rods. These rods push the lashes upward rather than simply curling them, allowing customers to personalise their look. The company rebranded the treatment as a ‘lash lift’.

I ask Meni if any salons still perform the old style of perm and she laughs. “I don’t think so, no,” she says.

So, how long does a lash lift last?

A lash lift usually lasts for six to eight weeks, depending on the person and their eyelashes. Meni tells me my lashes are normal but delicate, which will help them hold the perm longer.

How long does a lash lift take and what exactly is involved?

Meni starts by measuring my eyelashes and asking my personal preferences, in order to figure out which size of rod to use. We settle on the smallest size roller, which will give them the most intense lift. She applies a pad to hold my bottom lashes down and then begins gluing my top lashes to the roller. The tugging sensation, I must say, is unusual, but I wouldn’t call it painful.

After everything is in place, she applies the softening solution, which has a similar acrid smell as alkaline hair perming solution, just on a much lower level.

Meni says this is the part that requires an expert touch, and restraint by professionals when applying the treatment. “If they’re doing anything wrong, they could burn the eyelashes,” she warns. 

The solution is left on for eight minutes then wiped off, before the neutraliser is applied and left to sit for another seven minutes. Finally, everything is rinsed, and voilà! I’ve been permed. 

How much does a lash lift cost?

Meni adds a jet-black tint to my treatment, which she recommends for those with blonde or light-coloured eyelashes, such as myself. On its own, a lift will typically cost around $75. With the tint, we add an extra $25. 

Lash lift aftercare

Meni tells me to avoid using any products, touching my eyes or getting my eyelashes wet for at least 24 hours. After that, I can do whatever I please. There are also aftercare products you can buy if you want to make your lashes last longer. 

According to Meni, the lowkey nature of lash lift aftercare is part of the reason the treatment is becoming more popular. She performs lifts on clients from ages 12 to 70. She says younger girls often opt for a lift when their school’s dress code doesn’t allow extensions or makeup. Men have been known to book into the salon as well, though they usually want a more subtle enhancement than women.

The verdict and final results

When Meni hands me the mirror, I’m surprised. They still look like my lashes (well, because they are) but much more peppy, curly and glamorous. Meni says first-time customers usually react in a similar way – they can’t believe their own eyelashes could do that.

The permanent curl, Meni says, is not only more convenient than using a curler every morning, but better for you as well. “Pressing with the eyelash curler in the same spot, it cuts the lashes,” she says. 

With the permanent lift, I’ll be waking up to soft, feathery lashes every morning and I can finally stop coveting those of people around me. Meni adds that’s the best part of her job, “making everyone happy, seeing their smile”.

For more on eyelash treatments, head here.