‘Shark Tale’, showgirls and soft-goths: Where makeup artist Soraya Boularas finds inspiration
image via @soraya.boularas/instagram
words by lara daly
“I was always drawn to the baddies.”
Every so often, you come across a beat so captivating you just know there’s a real artist behind it. I first discovered Sydney-based makeup artist, Soraya Boularas, while I was interviewing Benee after Laneway. Her glam – a strawberry-pink blush with silver glitter eyeshadow and spiked black eyeliner, was perfectly in tune with the singer’s maximalist style.
After finding Soroya’s Instagram, I spent the next hour obsessing over her work, which sits somewhere between editorial glamour, alt-pop beauty and soft gothic romanticism. She’s impressively self-taught but her artistic streak runs in the family – she credits her understanding of colour to her father, a talented painter.
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While Soraya didn’t pick up a makeup brush until she was 16, she was no stranger to paint, pencils or pastels. “I loved that there were no rules while learning my craft.. I’d just play with product until I reached the look I wanted, then practice it over and over, and over again.”
There’s been a lot of discourse lately about the importance of heading offline to find creative inspiration. The main benefit, people argue, is that you’re more likely to cultivate your own taste when you’re not gripped by social media’s algorithm.
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It’s a strategy Soraya has unintentionally deployed for years. “My earliest beauty references were actually female cartoon characters,” she tells me. “I was always drawn to the ‘baddies’ – Lola from Shark Tale with her purple glitter smoky eye, or Kim Possible who stayed with a brown lip liner on. Special mention also to Cruella de Vil’s pale mint green shadow. Their looks gave them personality and made them feel surprisingly nuanced and real.”
Although her references existed in a 2D screen, she loved bringing elements of their animated beauty into the real world. Now, she’s booked and busy, adding her “subtle hints of fantasy” to the faces of beauty icons like Gemma Ward, Georgia Fowler and Te Manahou Mackay.
Eager to hear about her latest character obsessions, I caught up with Soraya to chat makeup, the power of restraint, and the glam manifestations she has listed in her Notes app.
Fashion Journal: How were you first introduced to makeup?
Soraya: My first memories of makeup are of my Sha Sha’s overflowing vanity – the grandmother in my life who refuses to go by a traditional term, which honestly sums her up perfectly. That woman has never worn a neutral look in her life. If it’s not metallic and full of pigment, she’s not interested.
I remember doing my first ever winged eyeliner while getting ready beside her when she took me to see Wicked at the theatre. I felt so powerful. Suddenly I understood why she’d do a full beat just to go for coffee or to her art classes.
How would you describe your approach to beauty?
Even though the quote is about dressing, I often think about Coco Chanel’s advice: “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” I believe there’s power in refinement and restraint in the beauty field.
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What’s the most memorable makeup job you’ve had in your career to date?
I recently had the privilege of glamming Gemma Ward for a premiere here in Sydney, which was a major pinch-me moment in my career. I was completely enamoured with her beauty growing up, she really has the face of a generation. Finding out she has an aura and warmth to match was just the icing on the cake.
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If you could be a personal makeup artist to anyone in the world, who would it be and why?
Do all makeup artists have a crazy glam manifestation list in their Notes app? Because I definitely do. At the top of mine right now is Peggy Gou. She’s an incredibly cool and talented woman, and I think we’re very beauty-aligned.
If you were to launch your own beauty product, what would it be and why?
A black gel eyeliner that does not budge in the waterline. It seems like an impossible task, but one day I will deliver. I think it’s something both artists and everyday makeup lovers would really appreciate. Plus, then I can add on a remover.
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What are the three most-used products in your kit?
MAC Face and Body Foundation, Make Up For Ever Artist Colour Pencils and Tanielle Jai Bronzour.
What’s the most challenging makeup job you’ve been on?
Any makeup artist who has worked backstage at a fashion show knows how intense that environment can be. Models are running late from previous shows, you’re trying to do a delicate graphic liner while the hairstylist is pulling their head in the opposite direction, and you’ve got five minutes before they have to be dressed.
It’s a kind of chaotic haven that you just have to embrace — but yes, it can definitely be challenging at times.
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What film have you watched recently that had inspiring makeup?
I recently watched Showgirls (1995) for the first time and I can’t tell you how many times I took photos of the television screen just for the makeup looks. I definitely want to recreate some Showgirls-inspired glam soon. The makeup in that film is just perfection.
I also rewatched The Batman (2022), and halfway through the film I googled who created Zoë Kravitz’s Catwoman looks. I should have known it was Pat McGrath.
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If you could key the runway makeup for any fashion designer (past or present), who would it be?
It would have to be Alexander McQueen. His shows always felt like fully-realised worlds rather than just fashion presentations. [They were] dark, romantic, and deeply theatrical. That kind of storytelling creates space for makeup to become part of the narrative, rather than simply complementing the clothes.
I’ve always been drawn to the gothic beauty and dramatic femininity that runs through so many of his collections. I’d want to create looks that feel slightly haunting, yet still undeniably beautiful. The McQueen universe feels like the perfect place for my glam to live.
Keep up with Soraya here.
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