Ready to commit to thin brows? Here’s what to know about the upkeep

Thin brow summer.

To go thin or not to go thin? Surely that’s the question on everyone’s minds lately. Yes, trends come and go – bushy, laminated brows are in vogue one minute, skinny brows are in the next. Tomorrow, there’ll be something new.

But with that said, there’s something deeply appealing about the thin brow. Perhaps it stems from the intrusive bathroom thoughts when you have a pair of tweezers in your hands and you think, ‘What if I just kept going?’. Or maybe it’s because it just looks really good. Either way, the temptation is there, and it’s getting harder to resist the lure.

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Usually, you’d expect brow techs to warn against jumping on the skinny brow bandwagon. Surely it’s bad for the integrity of your brows? Surely the upkeep is impossible? For Abbie Lawley, the founder of Melbourne brow lamination studio, Fluffy, a thin brow on the right person (that is, someone who’s properly considered the pros and cons), is “so fun”.

“We have definitely seen the shift from a big bold brow to something sleeker and more lifted,” Abbie tells me. “Most of our clients are edging towards a slightly thinner brow now, modifying the true ’90s aesthetic so its wearable for everyday.”

The upkeep

The first place most people’s mind goes to when they think skinny brows is the maintenance, and for good reason. Although it looks sleek and polished day one, what about a week in? What about two?

Unsurprisingly, if you do want to try out a thin brow, you’ll need to accept fairly early on that it’ll require more upkeep than a standard sculpt. “Expect to be back at the salon at approximately four week intervals,” Abbie confirms.

“Keep in mind that continual hair removal can damage follicles which can alter hair growth, so if you choose to have a significantly thinner brow, we may suggest dermaplaning rather than waxing or tweezing to ensure hair growth integrity,” she adds.

A process that involves removing the hair mid length rather than directly from the root, Abbie says derma-planning is a great option for people wanting to try thinner brows without the commitment. “We always want to keep in mind that brows roll round in trends, so we avoid hair removal that has the potential to be long term or permanent at all costs.”

Will thin eyebrows grow back?

Whether or not your brows will grow back to their former glory depends on a few factors. For one, there’s your natural growth cycle and how you usually can go between appointments. Another determiner is how regularly you’ve them thinned and via what method. According to Abbie, if you’ve been removing hair from the follicle regularly via waxing, tweezing or threading, then it’ll longer for your brows to fully grow back.

“A truly thinned brow could take anywhere between two and nine months to grow back,” she says. If you’ve been derma-planning your brows, then you can expect them to start growing back immediately.

Who suits a thin brow?

“Anatomy matters when it comes to a thin brow,” Abbie explains. “How a thinner brow looks on someone may not be how it looks on you. It’s imperative that we work with the anatomy of your brow bone, as well as what level of growth you have naturally to ensure that going thinner does not result in losing too much tail, or create a brow that is too flat if that is not the aesthetic you are going for.”

Before your appointment, she recommends spending some time pondering the exact result you want to achieve. From a higher arch, to a lift through the temples, a straight brow or a classic ’90s thin out, there’s no one way of doing thin brows. An open conversation with your brow tech is key to working with both your natural features and your eyebrow inspiration to mirror what you’re expecting as closely as possible.

What to ask for at your appointment

Just like a hair appointment, Abbie emphasises: reference photos are key, particularly if you’re going for a specific aesthetic. Even if you don’t know the technical terms relating to the shape or arch, photos can convey what you might not be able to. “What is thin to your brow technician may not be thin for you, or vice versa,” she says.

“Brows can also be thinned in a multitude of ways, all which will result in a different aesthetic. Photo references will help us determine which area of removal is going to give you the perfect result.”

It’s also worth keeping in mind (as mentioned previously), the ever-fleeting nature of trends. Abbie suggests looking to previous generations whose brows have struggled to grow back – though she doesn’t want to discourage you, it’s about entering into the process with care and consideration.

If you’ve thought about it, weighed up the upkeep versus the result and feel ready to commit, then, as Abbie says, “expect to be obsessed”.

“A new brow is as good as a new haircut. It might just be the summer reset you’re looking for.”

To book in with Fluffy, head here.