“Screaming, howling and dancing through to the AM”: Introducing Aotearoa-based label, Banshee
photography by @fifimademedoit for Banshee
words by daisy henry
“My supply chain is very unconventional.”
Based in Tamaki Makaurau, Aotearoa, Kayla Rousselle’s been an avid sewer since she was 11. Although fashion was always part of her life, it wasn’t until 2021 that Kayla was pushed to venture out on her own and commit fully to her brand.
She was working at a bridal company in her first year out of university, while also making a debut collection to show at New Zealand Fashion Week (NZFW). Then, all at once, NZFW was cancelled and Kayla was made redundant. “I’m honestly really happy in the end that I was made redundant because it’s what pushed me to launch Banshee,” she says.
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When describing her label today, she doesn’t miss a beat: “The Banshee diva is someone who wants to stand out from the crowd,” Kayla tells me. “Banshee is all about helping hot people, party girls and baddies to be their true selves.” Whether that’s through striped micro shorts, braided tops, asymmetric cuts, reconstructed leather jackets or mesh gloves, Banshee is the embodiment of “screaming, howling and dancing through to the AM”.
Made from almost entirely upcycled materials, Kayla describes her label’s supply chain as “unconventional”. Anything can be a fabric – from repurposed op shop gems to various materials sourced on Trade Me. “As soon as people know you upcycle, you end up with a never-ending supply chain from those around you.”
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Fashion Journal: Hi Kayla! What’s your fashion background and where are you based?
Kayla: Kia ora! I’ve been sewing from the age of 11 and started off by entering in a competition called ‘Trash to Fashion’, which really sparked the joy of garment creation for me. I studied at Whitecliffe which is an arts college here in Tamaki. So my background in fashion started off far more art and concept based. These days I’ve found my distinct techniques I use throughout my garments over the past couple of years are able to tell the story of Banshee a lot clearer than a concept could.
How did Banshee get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
During 2021 I was working for a bridal company in my first year out of uni. It was a great experience in more ways than one. I learnt a lot of invaluable tools that I still use to this day. But it also showed me the dark side of working in the industry and corporate greed.
During the end of my time at this company I was working on a collection for New Zealand Fashion Week. Basically two really shit things happened at once: New Zealand Fashion week was cancelled and I was made redundant. I am honestly really happy in the end that I was made redundant because it’s what pushed me to launch Banshee. I had unlimited time in lockdowns with nothing to do but sew.
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What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time and how has this evolved?
I originally wanted to make a really beautiful collection for Fashion Week that I thought would stay with people but in the end it evolved into the birth of my brand. I think in the four years since starting it there have definitely been shifts and my current goal is definitely to have fun with fashion.
Fashion is far too serious these days and I’m over it. However, the messaging surrounding sustainability is still the heart of what I do.
Can you tell me a bit about how you source your materials and your supply chain?
My garments are pretty much 100 per cent upcycled and my supply chain is very unconventional. I source from all over the place, the op shop, Trade Me, even your mum’s best friend. As soon as people know you upcycle, you end up with a never-ending supply chain from those around you.
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How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
The Banshee diva is someone who wants to stand out from the crowd. Banshee is all about helping hot people, party girls and baddies to be their true selves. Screaming, howling and dancing through to the AM. Banshee’s goal is to keep you serving c*nt.
What are you most proud of in your work on Banshee?
I’m extremely proud of how I’m able to represent myself and my community. As a queer woman, it’s a massive priority for me to platform people I relate to! It makes the Banshee message very clear that my garments are made for anyone and everyone bold enough to wear Banshee. I’m also very proud of my ability to stand so strongly in my values of upcycling. We have so much textile waste on this earth there is no reason to create more when there’s existing fabric waste to create from.
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What do you wish you’d known when you started?
I honestly think I wish I knew how to work in a more sustainable way from the beginning. Burn out after burn out, I’ve now gotten to a point where I know when to give myself breaks. It’s not a sprint, it’s a marathon and you have to give yourself time to rest.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian and New Zealand fashion right now?
I only look up to my peers at this point. Mainstay brands don’t really interest me anymore and majority of the time it feels like they’re ripping us small brands off anyway. People like Jenny Ruan, Sleeping Profit, Kong and many more small designers here in Tamaki Makaurau constantly leave me in awe and motivate me to keep going.
What about the fashion industry needs to change?
I can only really speak to New Zealand because from the outside looking at Australia, it seems like you guys have a much more fruitful fashion industry. I wish the New Zealand government would acknowledge fashion as an art form and give us funding grants. There are a lot of great initiatives going on that are entirely run on free labour out of love for wanting young people to be platformed. Last season, I produced two shows for Āhua and it reminded me that funding needs to be a lot more accessible for fashion initiatives.
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Who would be your dream Australian and New Zealand collaborators?
Karla Laidlaw and Emily Watson! I’d be so honoured to work with either of these baddies, I’ve admired both of their work from afar for a really long time.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
I’m a massive thrift girly, so most of the garments I own are secondhand. My favourite piece I’ve bought secondhand is my Vivienne Westwood hoodie, a lot of people refer to it as my cartoon character default fit. Other than that a lot of random brands, I don’t really shop based on brands, it’s more whether the garment speaks to me and feels like it’s something I will get a lot of use out of.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
I am stocked at Crushes in Tamaki Makaurau (Auckland) and Bizarre Bazaar in Pōneke (Wellington) which both sell online! I also sell on instagram.
Keep up with Banshee here.
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