Melbourne label By Katie Gray offers delicately feminine, made-to-order pieces

IMAGE VIA @BYKATIEGRAY/INSTAGRAM

WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT

“Sophisticated and alluring, By Katie Gray is intended for the capable woman.”

Looking at her carefully fitted, polished pieces, you’d never guess Melbourne designer Katie Gray learnt her sewing skills from YouTube. “Without formal fashion design education, I built up my skills mostly through trial and error,” she says. Katie wanted to sew her own formal dress, so ran a bolt of jacquard fabric through her mum’s sewing machine to create a two-piece set.

For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.

Today, Katie Gray’s creations (housed under the eponymous label By Katie Gray) are a little more refined. Working on a seasonless, made-to-order basis, she makes feminine dresses, tops, swimwear and skirts from deadstock fabrics. Below, Katie speaks on the label’s journey so far.

Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?

My name is Katie Gray, I’m the 22-year-old founder and designer of By Katie Gray. Owning my own fashion business had always been a fantasy of mine but as a teen, it felt like such a faraway fantasy. I had absolutely no idea where to start.

My journey into the fashion industry took an unconventional route (although I wouldn’t change it for the world). Without formal fashion design education, I built up my skills mostly through trial and error. YouTube became my teacher, contributing immensely to the development of my knowledge.

I began learning to sew when I was 16. I had a vision for what I wanted my year 10 formal dress to be, but couldn’t find it anywhere. I borrowed my mum’s sewing machine and bought some half-price jacquard fabric from Spotlight. After many hours, I finished a two-piece formal set – a floor-length circle skirt and bandeau top! (Although the construction was extremely questionable.)

As my dress-making journey continued, I delved deeper into the realm of altering and injecting new life into secondhand clothing, I would use these pieces as guides to create my own patterns or study the construction and stitches on each garment.

How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.

I fell in love with the creative process of sewing and bringing a vision to life. It filled me with an immense sense of accomplishment. A fascination took root, an obsession that had me quite literally imagining the project I was working on at the time while falling asleep. Visualising the process and steps [helped me to form] a puzzle in my mind that I tirelessly pieced together.

Through lockdown, I continued to refine my technical skills, creating my own patterns and toiles. Patternmaking and grading proved to be the most challenging aspect of dressmaking (shocker), but through so much trial and error, I released my first design in late 2020.

At the beginning of 2022, I launched my website and first real and cohesive collection, [and] the response was better than I ever could have imagined. From that moment onward, By Katie Gray… began to flourish. I took my business on the road in 2021 as I travelled around Australia, working wherever I got the chance. From Airbnbs and garages to tiny hostel rooms, I utilised any space I could to continue my passion and grow my business.

What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?

Initially, I embarked on this journey with no intention for it to turn into a ‘real’ business, let alone a full-time job. Rather, it was a passion-fuelled hobby and an outlet for my creativity. But as time unfolded and my business organically grew, so did my love for this craft and entrepreneurship.

… By Katie Gray was built on creating pieces that my wardrobe was lacking. Over time, I realised many of the samples I designed for myself I ended up loving so much that I decided to incorporate them into a cohesive collection.

The evolution of my brand has been a journey of introspection and refinement. Although I believe I have come a long way, the true essence of my brand is a concept that I’m still developing. I’m so excited to delve deeper into what By Katie Gray truly represents and continue to cultivate an authentic identity.

How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?

Sophisticated and alluring, By Katie Gray is intended for the capable woman. Our pieces are designed to leave a lasting impression and exude effortless elegance. We focus on slow production and utilising deadstock materials. All garments are handmade to order in-house by me, offering a uniquely curated experience!

What are you most proud of in your work on your label?

Building a small business and watching it grow is a feeling like no other. Every single day I have something to be proud of – every comment, every message, every purchase.

Seeing my pieces on gorgeous women and watching them radiate such beautiful energy fills me with so much joy. I feel so honoured to provide a stage for women to showcase their power, cultivate confidence, and celebrate femininity in all its beautiful manifestations.

To even call this my full-time job is a blessing. I never in my wildest dreams believed my business would grow to this level, and although my business is still a baby, I am honestly so proud of how far I have come.

Who do you think is most exciting in Australian and New Zealand fashion right now?

There are so many amazing designers to choose from! Camilla and Marc have solidified their position as one of the most captivating and innovative designers in Australia today. Their brand evolution has been immense, and I particularly admire their commitment to the timeless and minimalist aesthetic. Their ability to transcend trends while combining innovation and sustainability… [is] one of the many reasons why I have adored their brand for years.

What about the Australian and New Zealand fashion industry needs to change?

I believe the Australian fashion industry needs to address the pervasive issue of overconsumption, which is perpetuated by the glorification of fast fashion and viral clothing hauls. Fast fashion’s rapid production cycles and affordability have led to a culture of disposable fashion, where trends are embraced momentarily and then discarded.

This cycle is amplified by viral clothing hauls on social media, where influencers flaunt extensive purchases without considering the environmental and ethical consequences. As my mum would tell me, “You only have one body!”

To counter this, we must shift its focus from quantity to quality, encouraging consumers to invest in timeless pieces and sustainable practices. Brands should prioritise transparency in their supply chains and adopt sustainable production methods (not greenwashing).

Equally vital is the responsibility of influencers and the media to promote mindful consumption and highlight alternatives like thrifting and capsule wardrobes. We’re certainly moving in the right direction, but I believe there is a lot of work to be done – both on an individual and commercial scale.

Who is in your wardrobe right now?

The majority of my wardrobe is filled with vintage and secondhand pieces! My favourite shops are Swop, Stupid Vintage, Goodbyes – the list goes on.

Vintage shopping and browsing Depop are some of my favourite pastimes and through this, I find a lot of design inspiration; fuelling my imagination and uniquely influencing my creative process. We also love a fellow woman-owned business! Sage Avenue is always by my side – their Edition 3 bag is to die for!

How can we buy one of your pieces?

All pieces are currently available to purchase via our website. You are also welcome to book an appointment to try on/pick up at our Collingwood studio space!

Browse the By Katie Gray collection here.