This Sydney-based label only releases one style at a time
IMAGE VIA @shop___chops/INSTAGRAM
AS TOLD TO DAISY HENRY
“When something feels too big or too scary, it’s not a sign that I’m not ready, it’s an opportunity for growth.”
Shop Chops is the second fashion label founded by Mali. Rather than studying design, she launched her first brand as soon as she turned 18 while working full-time. “It was definitely education enough,” she says of the experience. Mali closed the label shortly after and decided to give herself a year’s break to re-evaluate what she wanted to do.
“It turned out my passion for clothing and creating a brand was still strong, I just needed a new approach,” she tells me. In 2022, Mali started Shop Chops, sewing hats for friends with leftover fabric from her first label while working odd jobs across Sydney. Mali then relocated to Portugal with a suitcase of samples to explore overseas production, before deciding to return to Australia to focus on local manufacturing.
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“I let the brand go wherever it went for the past couple of years as I focussed on the making. Only recently have I gotten back in touch with the ‘why’ and the ‘what’; why I’m continuing this and what I want to achieve and put out into the world in terms of both my product and message.”
Valuing transparent supply chains, Mali decided to introduce a new model. Keeping in line with the label’s mission of slow and thoughtful consumption, Shop Chops releases one design every two to four months.
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Fashion Journal: Hi Mali! Tell us about your fashion background.
Mali: I’ve always loved clothing, both designing and making it. However, I knew early on that school wasn’t for me, so university or Tafe was never on the cards. Instead, I jumped right in the deep end and started my own clothing label at 18. I ran that brand for a few years alongside full-time work and it was definitely education enough. In the end, I decided to close it down (due to post-Covid doom and feeling lost) and gave myself a year to figure out what I truly wanted to do.
It turned out my passion for clothing and creating a brand was still strong, I just needed a new approach. That’s where Chops began and I’ve been running it from my home studio in the Hunter Valley, Australia, ever since!
Tell me a little bit about the process and the challenges of building your own label.
I started Chops in 2022, sewing fabric hats for friends and anyone who wanted one while working odd jobs in Sydney. I had my industrial sewing machine and some leftover fabric from my first brand, so I just played around with what I had to see if this was really what I wanted to get into again.
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I then took my label to Portugal, packing a suitcase full of samples and patterns to explore production there. But after a few months of trying and failing, I realised it wasn’t the right move for me at that time. I came back to Australia, gave myself some time to figure out what I wanted and, as it turns out, I was willing to give it yet another go.
I luckily utilised the time I spent in Europe to post about my new designs and started to build a following on Instagram. So when I returned to Australia and decided to jump back in, I already had a handful of people eager to purchase my pieces. I started taking custom orders for one dress design which then kicked off the next couple of years of designing, patternmaking, cutting and sewing all of my orders.
I poured everything, including my time, money and energy, into building my products, customer base and a community with Chops. It hasn’t been easy, there have been more lows than highs, especially while trying to balance being a designer, business owner and maker.
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What is the significance of the label’s name? Tell us the story of how you first came up with it.
‘Chop’ is the nickname I’ve had since I was a baby! No one really knows how it started but it stuck. Everyone close to me calls me Chop, to the point where I rarely hear my actual name.
When I started making samples and showing them to friends and family, they’d say things like, “It’s Chop’s new brand” or “Chop made this.” It felt natural to name the brand Chops. Shop Chops is fun to say and it has meaning, even if it’s random to strangers.
How has your brand evolved and what are you trying to achieve now?
Initially, I just wanted a space to do my own thing, an avenue for being creative whenever I felt the inspiration to make. A big driver was also getting back to the foundation of real clothing – what good quality looks like, feels like and how it’s made. I showcased a lot of my process on social media early on, which helped drive growth and connect me with like-minded customers.
I let the brand go wherever it went for the past couple of years as I focussed on the making. Only recently have I gotten back in touch with the ‘why’ and the ‘what’. Why I’m continuing this, and what I want to achieve and put out into the world in terms of both my product and message.
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So with that, I’ve just announced a new direction for Chop, simplifying things even more by releasing one style at a time and encouraging thoughtful consumption. My goal is to build a timeless, high-quality wardrobe for my customers. I want to communicate that we don’t need to over-consume clothing and while I might drop a fun collaboration or surprise item here and there, the heart of Chops has always been about keeping it slow, thoughtful and simple which is exactly what I’m striving to keep as a core part of this brand.
Excitingly with this new direction, I’m also transitioning to working with Sydney-based makers to handle production which gives me more time to focus on the business side of things, plan ahead, get more creative with content and things like that. I feel like I’m entering a new phase and I’m very excited to see where things go!
How would you describe Shop Chops to someone who’s never seen it before?
A real and slightly messy exploration of what it means to create a ‘keep forever, hand down to your children, feel amazing every time you wear it’ clothing brand. No trends, no greenwashing, no fluff. In brand terms, it’s a quality, fit, fabric and people-focused clothing label.
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What are you most proud of in your work so far?
Although I’m incredibly proud of the beautiful clothing I’ve made for my lovely customers, what I’m most proud of is staying authentic and trusting myself through every stage of Chops’ growth. I’ve carved out my own path, building this brand in a way that feels right for me rather than following the traditional route.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
Doing everything myself doesn’t prove anything, it only burns me out. When something feels too big or too scary, it’s not a sign that I’m not ready, it’s an opportunity for growth and I need to take it one step at a time.
What about the local fashion industry needs to change?
There needs to be more conversation about the true process and cost of Australian-made clothing. There’s a big difference between brands that are made in Australia and those designed in Australia but produced elsewhere. This impacts everything – price points, lead times, quality, order quantities, fabric options and most importantly, transparent working conditions.
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Australia isn’t set up for fast fashion production. We don’t have the capacity to produce clothing at the speed or cost of overseas factories. Yet, some big brands lean on the ‘Australian Designed’ tagline, which can mislead customers into thinking their products are ethically, sustainably and locally made. It also makes it easier to overlook how much they produce and how often because it’s an ‘Australian brand’. But I don’t think where something is designed means that much these days.
The lead designers may be well-paid and working in ethical conditions but what about the people actually sewing your clothes? Every piece of clothing is handmade by someone and as consumers, we vote with our money. It’s our right and responsibility to know what we’re supporting.
On top of that, some brands use the ‘Australian Designed’ label to justify pricing their products similarly to those that are actually Australian-made. This creates confusion and doesn’t reflect the reality of Australian manufacturing, which is a slower, more hands-on process. A little more transparency would go a long way. Simply stating ‘Made in China’ or ‘Made in Bali’ before ‘Designed in Australia’ would be a good start.
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Who are your dream collaborators?
I don’t have anyone specific in mind but I’d love to collaborate with someone in the food or cooking space, or maybe an artist or graphic designer to create a graphic baby tee. I love collaborations that bring people together from different creative realms – they’re such a great way to reach new audiences and have a bit of fun with something you otherwise wouldn’t make.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can find me on Instagram and via our website. For now, that’s the only place to find my pieces but I’m hoping to expand into a few aligned stockists this year!
Keep up with Shop Chops here.
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