“Labour of love”: Court Jester is the emerging Sydney label creating one-off pieces
WORDS BY MAGGIE ZHOU
“Wholly unique and painstakingly hand-painted.”
Zoe Prineas MacPhail entered the fashion world almost accidentally. As a multidisciplinary artist, Zoe’s used to trying her hand at various art forms, from sculpture to printmaking. But a Facebook Marketplace purchase of an airbrush led her to experiment with textiles – a medium she hadn’t yet explored. After collaborating on a collection with fellow Sydney label Bodicia B, it encouraged her to start her own label, Court Jester.
“The clothing I design is always in dialogue with my ongoing artistic projects, transforming them into wearable pieces of art,” Zoe says. “People purchase art to embellish their walls, which can be decorative or conceptual, reflecting their beliefs and tastes. I find it intriguing to extend this concept to clothing.”
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The result? One-off, hand-painted garments created by Zoe. Her bespoke statement pieces sometimes take several hours of painstaking handiwork to make, but the end product is always worth it. “Knowing that my creations make people feel sexy and confident makes me so happy,” she says. Read on to hear about her journey so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
As a multifaceted artist, I delve into various disciplines such as drawing, airbrushing, sculpture, printmaking and digital [creation]. My foray into fashion occurred organically as I began airbrushing and printing on clothes, seeing it as an extension of my artistic expression. There’s something captivating about seeing my artwork come alive when worn, with the human body serving as a living, breathing canvas.
Fashion, to me, is deeply personal and significant. It’s not just about clothing, but also a strong reflection of self-identity. I view it as a form of social signalling – a powerful medium to externalise our internal state, convey our affiliations or make a bold statement. Whether it’s aligning with subcultures, advocating political views, appreciating craftsmanship, relishing spectacle or simply adding to the beauty of the world, I think fashion plays a pivotal role.
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Interestingly, as an identical twin, my awareness regarding self-presentation has always been heightened. Instead of trying outfits in front of a mirror, I had the unique privilege of dressing my twin. Sharing a wardrobe, I was constantly experimenting with different clothing combinations. I’ve always had a strong personal style.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
In 2021, my journey with the label started when I purchased an airbrush from Facebook Marketplace. My initial experiments with fabric proved challenging as I was unfamiliar with the medium. I spent countless hours on YouTube troubleshooting issues, it was a humbling experience. However, I persisted and honed my airbrushing skills on clothing.
My friend Bodi (Bodicia B) reached out and asked if I wanted to collaborate on a collection. I was so inspired and encouraged, and learned so much watching Bodi work. The success of our collaboration fuelled my motivation to establish my own brand.
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One of the major hurdles I’ve encountered has been time management. Each of my creations is a labour of love, wholly unique and painstakingly hand-painted. I’ve had to learn how to manage orders in real-time. Being an artist, I often find myself absorbed in my thoughts or immersed in the flow of my studio work. Breaking away from this creative trance to attend to administrative tasks has been a learning curve.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
I started off making my twin [a] tee. A lot of the artwork I make is centred around ideas of femininity. In art history, the female nude is traditionally filtered through the male gaze. I found the censorship and sexualisation of women’s bodies puzzling, as though their natural state needed to be concealed. Over time, my approach has evolved. I now reference femininity in more ambiguous ways.
The clothing I design is always in dialogue with my ongoing artistic projects, transforming them into wearable pieces of art. People purchase art to embellish their walls, which can be decorative or conceptual, reflecting their beliefs and tastes. I find it intriguing to extend this concept to clothing, giving individuals the opportunity to express their identities through their clothing choices.
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I also want to convey the message of sustainability through my brand. I am in the process of sourcing and upcycling items from thrift stores, using airbrushing to breathe new life into pieces that might otherwise end up in landfill. My goal is to foster an appreciation for reimagined, unique and sustainable fashion.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
My label can be described as a thought-provoking fusion of art and fashion that encapsulates a diverse range of themes from femininity and loss to humour and joy. Imagine detailed airbrushed designs featuring motifs of breasts, orchids and vintage lamps, often with glitter.
Each piece is a unique labour of love, meticulously hand drawn and painted, often with text or poetry. I enjoy transforming basic clothing from thrift stores, such as a simple T-shirt, into a bespoke statement piece.
The intricacy of my designs is a testament to the careful consideration and time that goes into their creation – sometimes spanning several hours. However, this painstaking process imbues each item with a distinctive quality and a touch of the human hand, making them truly unique and special.
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Where did the name come from?
I always loved the idea of the court jester as a figure in a medieval court. The jester’s role was to mock the king and his noblemen to elicit laughter. The jester had a unique privilege, to talk and mock freely without punishment. I imagine the freedom this afforded the jester, allowing them a secret influence under the guise of humour. This subversive power seemed to parallel my belief that art and humour often serve as a Trojan horse for deeper or more challenging topics.
I strive to encapsulate this idea in my clothing designs. At first glance, my pieces are aesthetically appealing, but beneath the surface, their inspiration is drawn from a complex conceptual framework. For instance, I started incorporating orchid imagery after learning about their fascinating method of seducing male bees. [They] mimic the appearance, scent and even tactile experience of a female bee. Such hidden messages and narratives lie at the heart of my label.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
I’m proud that I have successfully fused my conceptual art practice with my fashion design. I like to encourage people to contemplate their fashion choices in the same way they would appreciate a piece of art.
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The moments that fill me with the most pride are when I learn how my work has empowered people or sparked dialogues between strangers. Knowing that my creations make people feel sexy and confident makes me so happy.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
Unfortunately, I think you have to make sacrifices in order to start your own brand. It can be a lonely lifestyle because most of the work is completed in isolation. Learning to set boundaries and say ‘no’ is crucial, as is making time for personal relationships with friends and family. The reality of burnout is something I wish I had been more aware of, as achieving a work-life balance can be particularly challenging for creatives.
I also wish I had understood the importance of keeping records from the start. Being able to track time and costs accurately is key to maintaining sustainability. The excitement of spending six hours airbrushing a dress may feel worthwhile, but it isn’t always manageable. This is a lesson I continue to learn.
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Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
In the Australian fashion landscape, Alix Higgins and Jordan Gogos are incredibly exciting figures. I believe they embody a cross-disciplinary interest in art and fashion, merging these two realms in intriguing ways. I love how they draw connections between seemingly unrelated ideas.
What impresses me the most about these designers is their strong sense of brand identity. They’ve managed to establish a distinct style that is easily recognisable and utterly unique. Their work feels like a reflection of their individuality, which adds a layer of authenticity that I think sets them apart in the fashion industry.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
While I believe we’re beginning to see a shift, there’s still room for change in the Australian fashion industry. I would love to see a stronger blend of art and fashion, encouraging a more daring, avant-garde and experimental approach. For quite some time, I felt as though the industry was trapped in a relentless trend cycle.
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I think the industry could benefit from a greater emphasis on handcrafted designs and local designers. This focus would pave the way for smaller, niche brands to not only emerge but also flourish… I hope the industry continues to celebrate more nuanced expressions of style and less dominance by major labels.
Dream Australian collaborators?
I’m open to collaborating with everyone. Collaborations, such as my first one with Bodicia B, have been instrumental in deepening my understanding of the clothing-making process and have significantly shaped my journey. I see each new collaboration as an invigorating challenge, an opportunity to meld my ideas with those of others, leading to an exciting fusion of identities. So, in terms of dream collaborations, it’s less about specific names and more about the willingness to explore and create together in the vast landscape of fashion.
Go-to dinner party playlist?
My friend Lina MacGregor makes the best playlists. She has a Spotify playlist called ‘Nigella Lawson Whispering in my Ear‘ which she describes as sensual sounds for sensual flavours to soothe your palate and flirt with your mind. She makes sharing food an erotic experience. Another favourite of mine is the Camille 2000 (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack) by Piero Piccioni. It’s like an eclectic mix of lo-fi, blues, jazz and classical which is an immaculate vibe for a dinner party.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
At the moment, I operate mainly through Instagram DMs. Because my pieces are one-offs, they take a long time to create and get snatched up quickly. I prefer customising pieces specifically for each individual, factoring in their personal style and fit preferences. This approach not only ensures inclusivity in sizing but also creates a connection between me and those who wear my clothes. If you’re interested in acquiring one of my pieces, don’t hesitate to reach out via Instagram and we can begin our creative collaboration.
Keep up to date with Court Jester here.
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