Courtney Zheng’s eponymous label is minimalist heaven, steeped in family legacy
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WORDS BY LARA DALY
“I wouldn’t be here if it weren’t for the incredible story already told by my mother and grandmother.”
Australian fashion designer Courtney Zheng started her own label for as good a reason as any: she wanted to design a wardrobe for herself. When planning what she wanted it to look like, she choose a muse – someone strong and sophisticated, but also sensual – who ultimately led her to introduce fluidity to otherwise clean designs.
As a result, the brand’s aesthetic is characterised by muted tones and languid silhouettes. We see it across dressier pieces (like gowns and lace two-piece sets) as well as more functional pieces for everyday wear (this quarter zip sweater is a particular favourite). The craftsmanship in each garment also speaks loudly. Courtney credits her discerning eye to her family lineage – she grew up in a strong matriarchy, with her mother and grandmother working in textile engineering. “I’m deeply involved in the production process and I work better off the page,” she says noting that fashion is “much more than just sending off a few sketches”.
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This hands-on approach may be the reason why she’s chosen to work beyond a fixed collection of apparel, also offering select pieces on a made-to-order basis. Curious to learn more, we spoke to the Sydney-based founder and designer about the journey behind her craft.
Tell me a bit about how you got started in fashion.
I wouldn’t be here if it weren’t for the incredible story already told by my mother and grandmother. I was fortunate to grow up in a matriarchy of women with a background in textile engineering. We’ve always been encouraged to spend our free time painting, practising calligraphy, playing music or gardening. I worked for various fashion companies while studying Finance and International Relations at university and upon graduating figured out that I still had this innate desire to make things.
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How did your label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
While I’ve always had confidence in my styling and textiles knowledge, I did have to spend a lot of time learning the ropes when it came to sourcing, construction and fit. Fashion is vocational and it’s much more than just sending off a few sketches. I’m deeply involved in the production process and I work better off the page.
What were you trying to achieve from the project when you started and how has this evolved?
The label was created as a way for me to design myself a wardrobe while also paying homage to a muse who is strong, sensual and sophisticated. The beauty of releasing something for the first time into the world is the blind naivety, for that reason the debut collection was named ‘Ingenue’. It was somewhat self-referential. For how hard-headed I am, it’s actually a relief to start receiving feedback and being able to take that on board, because wearability is so important to me.
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How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
Distinctive, instinctual and fluid. It’s a contemporary Australian label characterised by clean lines, languid silhouettes and a focus on luxurious fabrications that seeks to create a wardrobe of enduring relevance.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
Continuing our family legacy and providing opportunities to the people I believe in.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
Giving myself licence to be creative. While listening to feedback is useful, it’s important to stay aligned with my own vision and design voice.
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Who is exciting you the most in Australian fashion right now?
I’m loving seeing Australian brands being included in the major fashion week schedules, however, if I had to name a couple it would be All is a Gentle Spring and Commas.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
My two cats.
What change would you like to see in the local fashion industry?
I would like to see more creative diversity – visual styles tend to be very trend-driven here and I hope to see more room for creatives in the industry to be truly inventive.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
I’m currently stocked at The New Trend in Paddington, FAO in Bondi Beach, The Lair in Newcastle, Amara Home in Berry and Peggy Store in Avalon. Other than that, online at courtneyzheng.com of course.
To explore the Courtney Zheng range, head here.
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