From Kylie to Rihanna, these are the most iconic designer-diva relationships

Melbourne’s DIVA exhibition showcases the most memorable pop star outfits – and the designers behind them.

Every iconic performer has at least one career-defining look. There’s Cher and her spiky, sequinned, midriff-baring sets, Whitney Houston’s dramatic floor-length gowns or Kylie Minogue’s shimmering showgirl bodysuits. 

Yes, each of these stars was born with innate, out-of-this-world talent– but their diva status was cemented with their impeccable on-stage aesthetics. 

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Presented by Arts Centre Melbourne and Victoria and Albert Museum (V&A), London, DIVA is an exhibition celebrating the creativity, ambition and resilience of many of the world’s best-known divas through more than 250 objects, including 60 spectacular costumes, jewellery, photography, art and music.

Currently on display at the Australian Museum of Performing Arts until April 26, it showcases famous looks worn by stars like Lady Gaga, Tina Turner, Elton John and Rihanna.

“DIVA celebrates the power and creativity of iconic performers and how they have used the spotlight to transform and inspire the world around them,” explains Arts Centre Melbourne’s Head of Curatorial, Margot Anderson. “The curator, Kate Bailey, gathered material from over 200 years of performance to explore the idea of creating and reclaiming the diva.”

From 19th-century opera singers to contemporary pop idols, DIVA spotlights stars across multiple generations – and the legendary designers who helped bring their looks to life. Here, we break down some of history’s most important designer-diva relationships.

Kylie Minogue and Dolce and Gabbana

When asked about her all-time favourite performer-designer collaboration, Margot lists Kylie Minogue’s Grecian-inspired look from the Aphrodite Les Folies tour. “It was one of eight costumes designed by Dolce and Gabbana for that tour, and she has collaborated with them on a number of others,” she explains. 

“Kylie works closely with designers on her tour costumes and has perfected the art of the quick change over many years. Her Dolce and Gabbana costumes have been fitted with invisible zips to help speed up the process.”

Grace Jones and Issey Miyake

“When I think about the longevity of some of the careers represented in DIVA, I’m always struck by a performer’s ability to reinvent themselves. They have an openness to change and new ideas that any fashion designer would be really drawn to,” Margot says. 

A true chameleon, legendary pop persona Grace Jones worked with Japanese designer Issey Miyake to create some of her most unique, fantastical on-stage looks. At DIVA, you can spot Grace’s forest-green, moulded Issey Miyake breastplate – a piece of glamorous armour, endlessly remixed across the span of Jones’ career.

Sarah Bernhardt and Charles Frederick Worth

“The exhibition highlights many successful collaborations and traces the designer-performer relationship back to the 19th century,” Margot explains. “Divas like Sarah Bernhardt and Nellie Melba worked closely with Charles Frederick Worth to create their stage wardrobes.” 

Considered the ‘father of haute couture,’ Worth created a number of extravagant, sculptural pieces for Bernhardt, a French stage actress and artist. “The leading couturier of the day, Worth’s ability to blend the theatrical needs of a costume with his own brand of fashion made him a popular choice for many leading ladies who were conscious of the image they were projecting,” Margot says.

Tina Turner and Bob Mackie

Earning the moniker ‘Sultan of Sequins,’ American designer Bob Mackie has been instrumental in shaping the glittering looks of Hollywood’s biggest stars (think Cher, Marlene Dietrich, Diana Ross, Carol Burnett, Madonna… the list goes on). “A cohesive collaboration between designer and performer has led to some unforgettable moments on stage,” Margot tells Fashion Journal. 

“The ‘Flame dress’ he designed for Tina Turner in 1977 springs to mind. Mackie understood the high level of energy Turner brought to the stage and created a costume that would allow her to dance freely while enhancing the movement itself.”

Don’t miss your chance to see DIVA, in its final weeks at the Australian Museum of Performing Arts, Arts Centre Melbourne. Open daily from 10am to 7pm until April 26. Tickets from artscentremelbourne.com.au/diva.