Melbourne tailor Emily Nolan’s guide to proper garment care

“You’ve got to look after the things that look after you.”

When it comes to caring for my clothes, I’ll admit, I’m no picture of the gold standard. Often, I’m overwhelmed by the mound of washing that builds up throughout the week and too pressed for time to separate, hand wash and steam as I should. With busy lives and overwhelmed wardrobes, it becomes difficult to avoid shoving all our pieces into one ‘quick 30’ warm wash as soon as a stain presents itself and calling it a day for the week ahead.  

A huge part of dressing intentionally goes beyond secondhand shopping and avoiding fast fashion labels. Caring for our clothes properly can be the key to making our garments go the distance, so we don’t have to cycle through our pieces as quickly. Emily Nolan, tailor and founder of made-to-measure atelier E Nolan, advocates for taking proper care of clothing. Over time, she’s developed a treasure trove of wardrobe TLC tips.

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“You’ve got to look after the things that look after you,” she tells us. Her general rule for longevity-enhancing closet care? “Don’t overwash your clothes. If it’s not soiled you can air it out or steam it to give it a little bit of extra life for a few more days. I only dry clean like once or twice a year and I’m a fucking grub.”

Below, Emily shares a go-to guide on caring for the fabric mainstays of a winter wardrobe and takes us through the proper maintenance for everything from cashmere to cotton. Read on to learn how to make the most of your favourite pieces. 

Cotton jumpers

“Pop your cotton jumpers on a gentle cold hand wash (below 30 degrees Celsius) and then dry flat on a hard surface without wringing. Put a towel over your clothes horse and lay the washed cotton knitwear on top. If you’re drying on a line, you run the risk of the garment stretching due to the water weight,” Emily says.

“Handle these garments carefully through wear and wash. Due to the delicate nature of knit, treat it with love to ensure the garment’s longevity. This means care and attention must be taken when wearing watches and jewellery to prevent snagging. Also, try to avoid sharp or coarse objects and surfaces when wearing where possible!”

Wool knitwear

“Always store your knits folded as opposed to hanging, as this can stretch out and misshape the garment. Hand wash woollen fabric garments using a wool wash in cold or lukewarm water,” she advises. “Never use bleach for your wool garments as this chemical dissolves the wool fabric. Merino wool knitwear is very soft and delicate so contact with rough surfaces and sharp objects can result in pulls, excess pilling and damage. Again, wear and wash with care.”

Shirts

“Opt for an Exit Stick. I cannot stress enough my love for this product. Their packaging slogan ‘Removes grease, biro, lipstick, boot polish, blood and red wine’ has been tried and true with me and my personal items,” Emily says.

“It always comes to the rescue, stepping in on my inability to remember to put the cap of my favourite ballpoint pen, never being on top of tracking my period and the fact that even when I drink a full glass of red, I talk with my hands. 

“Make sure your stain removers and washing products are not eating away at your natural fibres. I love the Koala Laundry Stain Spray. I use this for big stains. It is biodegradable and eco-friendly!”

Denim

“Spot-clean your jeans with an Exit Stick and put them in the freezer so they have lots to chat about with the frozen peas. I avoid machine washing at all costs. This is equal parts laziness and integrity to the clock. I love my denim to be soft and worn, it is what the material is intended for,” she explains.

Suiting

“For your suits, any food, grog or oil stains should be acted on as soon as possible as stains can set and be difficult to remove. If your suit smells of smoke or food, hanging it outside for a couple of hours should be enough to freshen it up. However, if you have a mishap, such as a stain from food particles, don’t panic – most stains and marks will come out with a simple spot clean by dabbing water… [they don’t] always require a trip to the dry cleaners,” Emily shares.

“All E Nolan made-to-measure pieces are dry-cleaned only. It is best to use small, reputable dry cleaners with a premium service and limit your dry cleaning to once or twice a year as a refresh. Ensure that your dry cleaner is pressing your suit with an iron guard and or replacing their ironing pads so as to not cause your suit to turn ‘shiny’ or damage the chest canvas.

“Always ask for your suit buttons to be covered in foil as they can become brittle and crack if overexposed to the chemicals in dry cleaning. Steaming your suit is a delicate method of removing wrinkles and odours and won’t damage the fibres. If you don’t have a steam iron, opt for a pressing cloth between your domestic iron and the garment,” she says.

“Try Muchison-Hume Garment Groom spray which doesn’t just mask odours, but eliminates them at the source. I have had many moments on a dance floor, in the sunshine or just getting too excited in a social interaction and left some organic Emily fragrance on my suit’s pits and crotch. This spray and letting the garment breathe and some steam is all you need.”

Satin or silk garments

“While some forms of satin can be machine-washed, it’s generally safest to hand wash all forms of silk in cool water using a gentle laundry detergent made for delicates. I always opt for a delicate cold wash for most, if not all of my washing.”

Cashmere

“Hand wash cashmere or, for machine-washable cashmere, put on a wool or delicate cycle with a cashmere shampoo or mild detergent with cool water. Turn your cashmere jumpers inside out before machine washing to preserve their softness,” Emily advises.

“Afterwards, lay the items flat in their natural shape on a drying rack or clean towel. When drying, avoid direct sunlight and heat sources, such as the radiator, because they can shrink or damage wool. Never hang wet wool and invest in a cashmere brush to gently remove any trace of lint, fuzz, hair and dust.”

For more garment care tips and product recommendations from Emily, head to the E Nolan website.