Melbourne’s Esse Studios offers wardrobe essentials that sit outside the trend cycle
IMAGE VIA ESSE STUDIOS
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“I wanted women to question just how much they needed, to help them understand what goes into the clothing they purchase.”
“Is that new?” When you’re dipping a toe in the realm of conscious fashion, it’s a complicated question. At one point, you might’ve welcomed – encouraged, even – the enquiry, walking into a bar donning freshly-purchased denim or shiny pleather boots. You’d answer a little flippantly, acting like you only vaguely remembered ripping your purchases out of their crisp plastic mailing bag. “Yes! I need to stop shopping,” you’d reply, not meaning it.
Then, when you started your journey as a more sustainably-minded shopper, you’d welcome the question the same – only the satisfaction would come from replying with “No, it’s old.” It’s not easy to choose the pieces you’ll wear forever, the ones you return to over and over again. Forever is a long time. But building that meticulously curated, deeply personal collection in your wardrobe feels like something to gloat about.
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Esse Studios designer Charlotte Hicks worked in fashion for 10 years before becoming fed up. Searching for an answer to the industry’s excessive waste and increasing carelessness, Charlotte founded Esse in 2017. The brand was conceived on the idea of those elusive ‘forever pieces’, slow-release editions created for wardrobe endurance. Fusing functionality, timeless design and sustainable sentiment, Esse Studios is a brand built to stand the test of time.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
It’s been 14 years since I started designing; I graduated with a Bachelor of Design from UTS in 2008. I worked in the industry designing for other Australian brands until the time came to launch something for myself.
How did the label get started? Talk to us about the process and challenges.
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After over a decade of being in the industry, I was struggling with the industry’s abundance of excess, wastefulness and speed. There was an overall loss of value, particularly for customers. I wanted to start something that took a different approach.
I started Esse to encourage us all to question consumption. I wanted women to question just how much they needed, to help them understand what goes into the clothing they purchase – from conception to their wardrobes.
I wanted women to take the time and consider each piece they buy; to learn more about the things they buy. It’s a buzzword now, but it was really about just consuming with your eyes – more open, ‘conscious’, aware and informed. I knew I wasn’t going to be a solution to the problem, but I wanted my woman to at least start asking these questions because the brand was asking these questions too.
Esse became a fusion of everything I loved about the craft and an attempt to abandon the methodology that wasn’t serving the world. It’s a blend of old and new, an appreciation for the craft and a vision for – quite honestly – my hopes for a better future.
Encouraging a slower and more mindful approach, I wanted Esse to focus on timeless value, integrity and quality. Esse is for the woman who takes the time to understand what goes into each piece, contemplating the level of integrity in the supply chain. I want her to enjoy the labour of love behind everything.
We also manufacture the majority of our garments in Sydney with our local pattern makers, cutters and machinists. This comes with its challenges, but we want to take the time to get things right and to be considered.
How would you describe Esse Studios to someone who’s never seen it before?
Esse is a contemporary, ready-to-wear lifestyle brand for the woman who takes a considered approach to her style. Our sentiment is to be mindful, sustainable and to consume consciously.
We want people to invest in less, but to make sure the pieces are right. Each edition is designed to be worn with the last as you slowly curate the pieces that work for you. There’s a focus on fabric, quality and how the pieces make you feel. Esse is artful, well-thought-out ease for the modern, inspired woman.
Where did the name come from?
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It was a few things. Esse means ‘to be’; I loved what that conjured up… it’s also ‘Esse-ntials’, which is where our ethos started.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
I’m proud of so many moments; we’ve been fortunate enough to win some awards and survive through the craziest of times. Also just proud to be growing my Esse team full of beautiful souls. I think this year is going to be big for the brand.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
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More government support to nurture local manufacturing! Ha!
Dream Australian collaborators?
I think for me, it’s people who inspire and capture the spirit. Grace Forest, perhaps.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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You can visit our website or a number of our local stockists. We also have partners internationally for those overseas. Or get in contact with us at info@essestudios.com! Our team love to discuss purchases with customers – to talk fit, fabric and to help you find something that you will have forever.
To shop all editions of Esse Studios, head here.
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