An up-close look at Gotham’s ‘Arcana’, where surrealism meets wearable design

A label of contrasts.

Of the many looks that caught our eye at Melbourne Fashion Week in October, one designer’s vision lingered long after the Closing Runway: Gotham. Founded by Melbourne-based designer Gautam Kapoor, the label finds inspiration in surrealist art and the occult, drawing on voluminous, Victorian-era silhouettes to create pieces that feel experimental yet wearable.

At its core, Gotham is a label defined by contrast, pairing opposing elements to create something unexpected. “I might reference the rigidity of suits of armour and contrast that with something overtly feminine, such as a dramatic ruffle,” Gautam explains. “This tension between strength and softness allows new and interesting shapes to emerge.”

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Gautam’s creative outlook is also shaped by global influences. His Indian heritage is reflected in the label’s confident use of colour and print, while a series of internships in London during a post-university gap year helped refine his technical pattern-making skills. This attention to detail is evident across the collections, where garments often undergo multiple toile iterations before reaching their final form.

Moving to Melbourne to complete his Honours at RMIT opened doors both creatively and professionally. “It was my first time living in the city and I only knew one person, but I was drawn to Melbourne’s creative energy and felt it was the right place to push myself,” he says.

Today, Gautam shares a studio in Clifton Hill with fellow designer Lucinda Babi. While each maintains a distinct aesthetic, both designers operate with a hands-on, DIY approach and a strong commitment to locally produced, made-to-order fashion. Below, Gautam reflects on his journey into fashion, the inspiration behind his latest collection, Arcana, and where he hopes to take Gotham in 2026.

Fashion Journal: Hey Gautam! Tell us about your fashion background, how did you get started?

Gautam: I migrated from India to Australia at a very young age, which really shaped my perspective and creative outlook. I went on to study fashion and textiles in Perth, and during a gap year I completed several internships in London that helped refine my interest in the industry. After that, I decided to move to Melbourne to complete my Honours at RMIT. It was my first time living in the city and I only knew one person, but I was drawn to Melbourne’s creative energy and felt it was the right place to push myself both personally and creatively.

When did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.

After graduating from RMIT, I fell into the pattern of working in luxury retail to save money, after spending so much on my graduation collection. I reached out to one of my friends, Lucinda Babi, from my university and said, ‘let’s go view a studio’ and the day we looked at it, we both committed to it and it began our respective journeys there.

The label really began during Covid in 2020. That year especially, going from just experimenting and learning to pattern sew again, I created a website and Instagram and started posting and trying to sell my pieces online. The early years were very DIY – you’d be surprised by how much of my product and pieces were shot on an iPhone.

Tell me about your new collection, Arcana. What was the inspiration behind it?

Arcana draws inspiration from my graduation collection, which I revisited as a source of material. I always felt there were many ideas within it that I’d previously overlooked. I researched surrealist artists such as Leonora Carrington, whose paintings are rich with occult themes and representations of magic. From there, I drew on Victorian-era silhouettes, incorporating flounces, ruffles and volume, as well as print ideas developed from my earlier work.

When designing, I always aim to fuse opposing elements to create something unexpected and visually compelling. For example, I might reference the rigidity of suits of armour and contrast that with something overtly feminine, such as a dramatic ruffle. This tension between strength and softness allows new and interesting shapes to emerge.

Do you have a favourite piece in the collection?

It would have to be the jacquard floral dress. This piece tested me as a designer, taking around four to five toile iterations before reaching the final version. Each sleeve alone uses approximately two metres of fabric to achieve its volume and sculptural shape.

Can you tell us a bit about how you source your materials and your supply chain?

All of my prints are produced in Melbourne by a printing company called Next State, an incredible team I highly recommend to anyone looking to develop custom printed fabrics.

I source my core fabrics locally as well, including the ponte used for my Dive tank tops, which remain one of my bestselling pieces to date. Supporting local businesses in Melbourne is very important to me and I make a conscious effort to prioritise this wherever possible. All pieces are still made in studio. I operate on a made-to-order model, which continues to work well for the business and helps keep excess fabric waste to a minimum.

How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?

I would describe the label as experimental, fusing masculine and feminine elements while working heavily with colour, print and shape. The pieces are designed to feel distinctive yet wearable, created to be styled in multiple ways.

What are you most proud of in your work on your label?

What I’m most proud of is the growth the label has achieved. Looking back, I can see how far I’ve come and whenever I feel overwhelmed or face challenges, I remind myself of where I started. I’m especially proud of this year, having been invited to showcase at the Melbourne PayPal Fashion Festival and most recently, at Melbourne Fashion Week. The turnaround for Fashion Week was incredibly quick, and I’m proud I was able to make it all happen. I was fortunate to have an amazing team around me who helped bring everything together.

What do you wish you knew when you started?

I wish I’d focused more on the marketing and content side of the business from the start. Over time, I’ve realised just how important it is and how much it shapes every aspect of the brand. This will be a major focus for me in 2026.

Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?

There are so many exciting, emerging labels. I also love seeing independent boutiques showcasing new talent, such as Solari Studio in Abbotsford and Sucker in Fitzroy. What I find particularly exciting is how people are shopping more consciously, choosing intentional, long-lasting pieces that can be integrated into their wardrobes, rather than chasing fast fashion trends.

What about the local industry needs to change?

The industry is slowly evolving to support emerging talent but I’d love to see more funding and grants available for fashion, along with stronger support from the government and the arts sector. I also think more independent runways that fully showcase a designer’s vision, from casting and makeup to models and styling, would make a huge difference. This year, I saw Amy Lawrance’s runway, and to me it was such a powerful portrayal of her vision. I would love to create something similar for my label in the coming year.

Who are your dream collaborators in Australia?

This might seem a little out there, but in the future I’d love to create a small capsule of objects, whether its hand-blown glass candles, each one unique, or ceramics, and have them showcased with Mecca as an emerging designer collaboration. It’s oddly specific but I’ve always had a huge respect for how well executed both the brand and business of Mecca are.

What items are on high rotation in your wardrobe right now?

Right now, I’m cycling through a bunch of Gramicci T-shirts, baggy jeans and a pair of Gucci Horsebit loafers that I’ve worn to death.

How can we buy one of your pieces?

Gotham is currently available to order online through my website and Instagram. In the new year, I’ll also be stocked at Solari Studio in Melbourne and Basket Studio in Perth.

Keep up with the latest from Gotham here.