The problem with shoe sizing in Australia

A new study highlights a shoe sizing system with plenty of room for improvement.

When it comes to shopping online, my biggest bugbear is shoe sizing. I’m an EU 41, which can mean a US 9, 9.5 or 10 depending on the brand. Sneakers? UK 7. Running shoes? UK 8. But as I’ve come to learn, knowing my shoe size doesn’t mean I actually know my shoe size.

Recently, to celebrate my upcoming 32nd birthday (aka turning Carrie Bradshaw season-one-years-old), I ordered a gorgeous pair of pre-loved black suede Manolo Blahniks with a grosgrain ribbon. A size 41.5, I was sure they’d fit like a glove. Once I opened the box, all hope was lost.

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I should’ve known a vintage Italian designer shoe was not built for my genetically cursed wide feet. More often than not, shoe-shopping leaves me feeling like one of Cinderella’s evil stepsisters. It’s got to the point where if a shoe fits me, I’ll buy it even if I don’t actually love it.

Turns out I’m not the only one struggling to slide my foot into shoes that are technically my size.

According to a new study released this week by RMIT, most women wear shoe sizes that differ from the size indicated by their foot length. Of the 107 women studied, 72 per cent wore a different size under US sizing, with more participants wearing a larger size than their foot length indicated.

The researchers suggest this tendency to size up could be because women are compensating for shoes that don’t adequately accommodate their foot width. Among women assigned the same shoe size based on foot length, there was a variation of up to four centimetres around the widest part of the foot under US sizing. No wonder we’re so confused.

Co-author Associate Professor Saniyat Islam, from RMIT’s School of Fashion and Textiles, says the findings expose the limitations of footwear sizing systems that rely heavily on length. “Australian women aren’t bad at buying shoes – the sizing system is bad at describing their feet,” Islam said.

As consumers, we’re not only navigating different sizing systems across continents, but inconsistencies between brands, too. Most shoes are sold in just one width, despite the study finding enough variation among women with the same foot length to require around six or seven width options.

So why aren’t brands offering sizing based on width as well as length?

Post Sole Studio is one of the few remaining footwear brands manufacturing locally in Melbourne. Its made-to-order model allows for custom sizing, while its standard range runs from EU 36 to 46. Speaking to co-founder Breeze Powell, she was surprised by the results of the study.

“Many of our lasts [foot-shaped moulds] come from a comfort footwear brand I previously worked for, so they’re designed with a good amount of width and a decent toe box. Returns and exchanges are costly for a small brand like us, so we try to minimise that as much as possible by having a detailed size chart.”

Still, offering multiple widths isn’t always simple. “For us, setting up patterns and lasts for special sizes can be costly, so unfortunately it’s not something we can offer,” Powell says. “But I think if you’re a brand that manufactures overseas and you have the capacity to offer a broader range of sizes, it would be a great thing to offer.”

The problem with wearing shoes that don’t fit

Wearing shoes that are too small isn’t just uncomfortable. Shoes that restrict the natural movement of the foot can cause pressure and friction, contributing to blisters, corns, bunions and ingrown toenails. Poor fit can also contribute to longer-term problems, including plantar fasciitis and nerve pain.

One common mistake is assuming a tight shoe will “break in”. While materials may soften, a shoe that’s too small will continue to compress the foot. A good fit should provide enough room in the toe box for your toes to spread naturally, while keeping your heel secure. Melbourne Podiatrists and Orthotics recommends allowing at least a finger width of room in front of your longest toe when standing, and using your larger foot as a guide.

In other words: slightly bigger is better than slightly smaller. If (like me) you struggle to find your size, check out our directory of Australian labels making stylish, size-inclusive footwear here.

How to find your right size

The RMIT findings underscore the need to investigate whether current footwear sizing systems actually reflect the diversity of foot shapes in Australia. “Footwear sizing still largely reflects a narrow range of Western foot shapes, despite Australia having one of the world’s most diverse populations,” says co-author Associate Professor Carol Tan.

For those of us with wider feet, Post Sole Studio can make small adjustments to its shoes, such as lengthening straps or using a larger pattern and last on a smaller sole. These customisations come at an additional cost, however, as they require more materials and labour.

“For wider feet or shoes that are hard to break in, most cobblers have machines that can help stretch leather shoes,” Powell adds. “There are limitations though, so it’s always the best option to buy something that’s comfortable to begin with.”

And this one seems obvious, but avoiding narrow silhouettes like pointed-toe stilettos is probably a good idea. No matter how tempting they look, it’s not worth squeezing your feet into them. Plenty of brands specialise in square-toe shapes that are just as cute.