Emerging Melbourne designer Jessica Virk is blending architectural elegance with sustainable innovation

“My mission from the very beginning when I started drafting these looks was to make the wearer feel exceptional, and to stand out from the crowd, whilst also reflecting my own style.”

As an official media partner of PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival, Fashion Journal is excited to once again be supporting the National Graduate Showcase x Emporium Melbourne, celebrating Australia’s top-ranked emerging fashion design talent. The top 10 leading graduates from across the country will exhibit their collections in a boundary-pushing presentation, showcasing experimental design and innovation.

Looking for more fashion news and features? Head to our Fashion section.

Over the next few weeks, we’ll be profiling each designer through a series of interviews. Next up is Jessica Virk. A graduate of the Whitehouse Institute of Design, Jessica has channelled her childhood passion for sewing into a fashion design career. Her graduate collection The Median blends her love of a timeless classic – the trench coat – with the work of boundary-pushing architect, Zaha Hadid. Below, she tells us about her collection.

Please introduce yourself to our readers.

Hi, my name is Jessica Virk. I am 20 years old and I graduated from Whitehouse Institute of Design majoring in fashion design. My passion for fashion started when I first received a ‘hot pink’ toy sewing machine as a gift from Mum and from then onwards I fell in love with the process of sewing and have continued this through.

Tell us about your collection.

Well, the theory of building this collection started with my menswear piece I did where I created a hybrid look by combining sportswear with formal[wear] which got really good reviews by my peers. And since then, I knew that I should continue this idea of mixing and matching within my graduate collection too.

In terms of the collection, The Median is actually a series of many thoughts and ideas. There are multiple reasons behind this collection. Number one is my love for trench coats and this can be seen through the multiple uses of the beige bonded cotton and how each look uses that fabric within its own style whether that’s through deconstruction or to project that look further.

Secondly, it takes from the architect Zaha Hadid, who used radical design structure within her making. I wanted to express the idea by celebrating the odd juxtaposition of two entirely different pieces in one full composition. Whether that’s through the placement of broad hips, enhanced silhouette features or layering, the collection demonstrates the use of structure throughout each of its forms.

When did you know you wanted to get into fashion and textile design?

Well, my love for fashion or in particular sewing started when I got my very first toy sewing machine as a present from Mum back home in India. Even though I was very naive and young, I still remember the joy and the feeling of excitement of using it to make small patches and my grandma helping me refill the bobbin whenever it was finished.

From then I took textiles in year seven until year 12, in which I learnt many things about garment construction and made a few of my own pieces. And that was kind of like a wake-up call knowing that I enjoy sewing and maybe I should continue this in the future. From then I took part in the Bachelor of Design program at Whitehouse Institute of Design majoring in fashion. And that’s when I truly found out that there’s more to this than said.

What were the major points of inspiration for your collection, and you more broadly as a designer?

My mission from the very beginning when I started drafting these looks was to make the wearer feel exceptional and to stand out from the crowd, whilst also reflecting my own style. As an individual, I wanted to include my staple wardrobe pieces in this collection whilst still showing a different approach. I wanted to incorporate my love for trench coats and this was kinda like the building block.

From then onwards, I was really intrigued by the architect Zaha Hadid, and how she used structure in her buildings and shaped them in her own unique way. And from then onwards I kinda incorporated her fundamentals and form into this collection.

Tell us about the experience of putting together your graduate collection.

Honestly, it was such a hands-on experience. It felt as if I never stopped once since I started drafting and planning the looks. Knowing that there were many deadlines to meet and very little time, sleep was never an option… Furthermore, because this collection is so different and advanced from anything I have done before. There was very little time for mistakes and to start again making it even more stressful and pressured. However, at the very end, it was all worth it.

What part does sustainability play in your design practice? And other ethical
considerations?

In terms of ethical considerations, a few of my accessories were produced from plastic bottles and were heated to create these odd structure-like shapes and were turned into earrings. I had extra leftover zips from previous work and I used them on shoes to make a deconstructed look.

Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?

I think brands like Christopher Esber and Camilla and Marc are the most exciting because they are always on trend and produce exceptional intricate designs.

What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?

Selling sustainable garments at a reasonable rate for everyone to buy and feel included.

Dream Australian collaborators?

I would love to work with Esse Studios and St Agni. Their idea of creating minimal yet functional/timeless pieces really intrigues me.

To view more of Jessica’s work, head here. You can get your tickets to PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival’s National Graduate Showcase x Emporium Melbourne here.