Made-to-order Melbourne label Lilith Viper creates romantic pieces with a gothic influence
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEF GATTI
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“In each collection, we are able to bring something new and unique. Each collection tells a specific story.”
Melbourne-based slow fashion label Lilith Viper is all about duality. Dreamt up by friends Lucy and Abby, the label combines the duo’s skills in sewing, pattern-making, graphic design, illustration and branding. In its aesthetic, Lilith Viper is equal parts feminine and edgy – think buckles, latex, frills and sparkly pink bows.
For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.
While Lilith Viper pieces are playful and a little frivolous, Abby and Lucy are meticulous in their production processes. “We’ve had to work extremely hard to produce collections made on our own,” Lucy explains. “Our prices are structured to pay our seamstresses a liveable wage and support an ethically made, slow fashion structure.” Below, the duo speaks on the Lilith Viper journey so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
View this post on Instagram
Lucy: I started learning how to sew and pattern-make when I was 14. My grandmother was a dressmaker, so she passed on her knowledge (very lucky). After high school, I completed an advanced diploma and went on to work as a garment tech/product developer for a few different brands in Melbourne while pattern-making and sewing in my spare time.
Abby: While my career is now tattooing, I’ve always had a big interest in fashion and studied it briefly at UTS Sydney straight after high school. I’ve harnessed illustration and branding skills through my tattooing work and I have a Bachelor of Communications and Design.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
View this post on Instagram
L: The label was initially a collaboration between my best friend Abby and myself, we had been talking about doing something together for a long time [and] we wanted an opportunity to merge Abby’s illustrations and my designs/garment construction skills. We had a runway to launch the brand and we’ve been creating collections together since then.
A: Some challenges are definitely having to financially back the brand ourselves, we’ve had to work extremely hard to produce collections made on our own. Also being made-to-order and made in Melbourne can be quite difficult. Our prices are structured to pay our seamstresses a liveable wage and support an ethically made, slow fashion structure.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
View this post on Instagram
L: At the time we were trying to bring something different to the Australian fashion scene and merge two different creative professions to create something unique. Over time, we have learnt about commerciality as a brand and how to be commercial while still having our own clear identity.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
L: I would describe our brand as very romantic, sweet and feminine whilst still being empowering and a little sultry with a slight goth influence.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
View this post on Instagram
L: I am most proud of our made-to-order structure. While manufacturing overseas would be a lot easier, I take pride in pattern-making and sampling all the collections myself. I am also proud of the collaboration between Abby and myself – in each collection, we seem to have the same ideas and are able to bring something new and unique. Each collection tells a specific story. We just launched our newest collection titled The Beloved, which we are both really excited about.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
L: There are a lot of things I wish I had known when I started (like editing and refining the collections to focus on garments that will sell easily and not be too expensive and time-consuming to create), however, I think making mistakes is what helped us a grow as a brand.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
View this post on Instagram
L: There are two designers who I think are really bringing something different to Australian fashion. One is Melbourne designer Pazadz, her designs are super fun and unique. Another brand would be Hopeless Lingerie, their made-to-order and slow fashion model is something I look up to as [the co-founder of] a brand.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
L: The biggest thing that needs to change is the fast fashion industry… there are so many big brands out there creating so much waste to the environment and that are unethically made. It would be great if more education was given to consumers about fast fashion.
Dream Australian collaborators?
View this post on Instagram
Dream fashion collaborators would also have to be Hopeless Lingerie, we have been admirers of them for a long time. The way they draw inspiration from old horror movies and have a clear direction for each collection is something we align with.
Go-to dinner party playlist?
L: Anything Fred Again or Four Tet (predictable, I know).
A: Dark wave, witch house.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
View this post on Instagram
L: Mostly my own brand, when I’m not sewing new ranges I’m making things for myself or upcycling vintage finds.
A: Vintage Dior, Joah Brown, Depop finds.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can buy our pieces through our website.
Anything else to add?
View this post on Instagram
We launched our new collection, The Beloved. It’s all things sparkly, cute and romantic!
Browse the Lilith Viper collection here.
Liked this? You’ll love these...
