Sydney slow fashion label Maem Disko is making thoughtful wardrobe staples
IMAGE VIA @maemdisko__/INSTAGRAM
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“From 30-year-old vintage lace trim to teddy bear patches and heart-shaped buttons, if you look closely, the details are so much fun.”
After moving from Queensland to Sydney to pursue fashion, Margot Castor started her womenswear label, Maem Disko, when she was just 19. With one design ready to go, she called patternmakers around the city until one “took a chance” on her. “I started very small,” Margot says. “With my first design, I only made 15 units.”
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The Maem Disko range came together slowly and thoughtfully. After Margot’s Babydoll Dress went viral on TikTok, she quit her hospitality job to focus on the label full-time. “So much time and effort goes into refining the fit of our pieces and making them as practical and comfortable as possible,” she says. “… I’m proud of my commitment to ethical production and sustainability.”
Comprised of elevated, feminine wardrobe staples, the Maem Disko collection is now comprised of dresses, miniskirts, corsets, trousers and swimwear, all made from high-quality deadstock fabrics. Below, Margot speaks on the Maem Disko journey so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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My name is Margot, I’m 23 and I live in Sydney! I think a career in fashion was always the only direction I ever had in mind for my life. When I was in high school, I wasn’t really sure how to navigate this world, the thought of having my own label… seemed out of reach.
I moved from Queensland to Sydney to attend fashion school when I was 18 and was lucky enough to intern at Vogue for a few months. I learnt so much and really enjoyed my time, but discovered very quickly that working for someone else was going to be more difficult for me than I thought.
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At 19, I made the choice to stop trying to work my way up in the industry and instead started working in hospitality so I could spend all my energy building the foundation for Maem Disko. My parents were slightly concerned by this choice, but I was certain this was going to be so much more fulfilling for me, regardless of its success and the certainty of its endless challenges.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
… Even though I’d been to fashion school and worked in the industry, I had no idea how to actually start a label. After a bit of research, I concluded that I needed to find a pattern/sample maker. I already had my first design ready so I proceeded to Google ‘patternmaker Sydney’ and called the phone number of every single Google search result. I was met with about 10 to 15 nos.
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… By a stroke of luck, one lady took a chance on me and said “Yes… can you bring your designs and your fabric to my house tomorrow?” I was so excited. She had worked in the industry for years and taught me so much… I started very small. With my first design, I only made 15 units.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
Maem Disko is fun. Our pieces have classic silhouettes, which really enhance a feminine shape and are flattering for all body types. The pieces are… well thought-out and feature small accents, which I believe make us stand out. For example, our babydoll dress features a waist tie which helps to accentuate your shape…
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Our corsets feature a back panel made from a thick scuba fabric to give the piece some stretch… [and] our mini skirt features built-in pink bloomer shorts so that when the wind comes or you are sitting down, you are covered and comfortable!
Classic at first glance, but the beauty is in the details. From 30-year-old vintage lace trim to teddy bear patches and heart-shaped buttons, if you look closely, the details are so much fun.
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In addition, something I think makes our pieces stand out is our commitment to refining the fit of a piece until it’s absolutely faultless… When we create a design we actually make a sample in every single size and then get a friend or fit model in to try each size on. Everyone has such a unique shape and standard grading was never personal enough for us.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
I’m so proud of how I can make girls feel. As previously mentioned, so much time and effort goes into refining the fit of our pieces and making them as practical and comfortable as possible. When I receive messages [from customers] expressing how the piece made them feel, it is just the most incredible thing. [It’s] particularly funny when they say things like how good they felt in front of their asshole ex-boyfriend.
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… I’m proud of my commitment to ethical production and sustainability. It comes with so many challenges and sacrifices, particularly financially, but I want to encourage other people that it’s possible. Having a mention in British Vogue was cool too!
What do you wish you knew when you started?
I’m a creative and tend to struggle with the admin and financial side of [the business]. I wish when I started, I had more of an understanding of the fundamentals of business… My advice would be [to] learn about the boring things or wait to start the business when you can afford to pay someone else to do them.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
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I think it goes without saying that the impact of ultra-fast fashion… is so detrimental to our industry, customers, planet and small businesses… I understand that fast fashion exists however the strongest issue I have is with the blatant theft from artists and small labels. Before we even have a chance to grow, our creations are copied and sold cheaply which impacts the longevity of the design hugely.
Anything else to add?
If having your own label is something you have always dreamed of, don’t be afraid to start. I’m so grateful I started so young, even though I made more mistakes. Now is the best time to start because growing a brand takes so much time. I know it’s so daunting and so overwhelming, but just break it down and start with one design. I drew one top on a piece of paper and had $1,500 to my name…
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Don’t be afraid to dive into social media. I thought TikTok was scary and I didn’t understand how to use it. The reason I was able to quit my hospitality job was because I had a TikTok of my dress go viral. It just takes one bit of luck to get you going.
Browse the Maem Disko collection here.
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