“The emotion of love deeply inspired me”: Marta is the emerging Sydney label built on romance
PHOTOGRAPHY BY REUBEN WILDER
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“It is for the girl who wants to be adorned in beauty and pretty things and feel powerful while doing it.”
There’s a reason so much of the art we consume is inspired by love. It’s the all-consuming feeling; the most passionate, wonderfully overwhelming kind of connection you can have with another person. Love is the reason songs like ‘At Last’ by Etta James and paintings like Gustav Klimt’s ‘The Kiss’ exist.
Sydney-based designer and fashion student Sara Marta has always been a romantic. When it came to creating her first collection, Love Story, Sara turned to “intimate depictions of human connection” for inspiration. “I wanted to create something that reflected the intensity of such a human experience and all its varied layers,” she says.
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After debuting the eight-body collection at Australian Fashion Week’s The Innovators: Fashion Design Studio TAFE NSW show, it’s clear Sara achieved her goal. Marta debuted pieces made from delicate hand-draped tulle, meticulously appliquéd bridal silk and organza covered in hand-beaded heart motifs. Read on to hear about how Sara brought the collection to life.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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The label began as part of my final year of study at TAFE NSW Fashion Design Studio. In our final year, we were required to create an eight-body collection representing us and our brand identity. The process always begins with design conception and the ideas period. The emotion of love deeply inspired me; I wanted to create something that reflected the intensity of such a human experience and all its varied layers. I’ve always been a romantic.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
The collection involved months of sampling and testing. Textile experimentation and diary work were core to the process. I experimented with natural dyes and handmade textile techniques. I found inspiration through sculptor Auguste Rodin and photographer Ed Templeton, as well as their natural and somewhat intimate depictions of human connection.
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Each piece has been locally made in Sydney with loving hands and gentleness towards the planet, utilising primarily deadstock fabrics and low-impact dyes where possible. Some challenges came with my lack of experience and the learning I took on along the way. I had to take on the role of a patternmaker, construct the most suitable fabrics for my vision, and refine my patternmaking skills.
Finding a work-life balance and forcing myself to make sacrifices to put my brand and my creative output as my number one priority has also been hard. It can be challenging to say no to social commitments or allow myself time to rest and do nothing to put my all into my projects.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
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I would describe my label as feminine, detailed and delicate. It is for the girl who wants to be adorned in beauty and pretty things and feel powerful while doing it. Sheer soft silks are contrasted with sharp-cut tailoring, and embroidery and beading bring texture and tactility to each piece. Marta is built on craftsmanship and artistry.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
In my work, I’m most proud of the detailed handwork created. I collaborated with textile artisans in India to create intricate embellishments and striking textiles. My beaded dress and top were illustrated by hand first. From there, I placed them onto my patterns.
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I collaborated with Manpreet, an artisan in India, and we communicated back and forth via WhatsApp as he sampled and perfected my vision. This beaded look has always been something I’ve wanted to create since I started in fashion. Designer Bob Mackie and vintage Versace looks that just glitter and sparkle have always inspired me.
I’m also quite proud of my prints, which have involved so many hours of work. The brown suit is a six-layer screen print that I designed and printed myself, as is the print on the yellow coat, which is done with a colour removal method that lifted the colour from the yellow velvet. I hand-drew the couple embraced in the centre back of the coat and carefully painted each sunray over a couple of days.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian and New Zealand fashion right now?
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I think right now in Australia and New Zealand, it would be remiss not to praise my amazing peers who also presented at the Fashion Design Studio Innovators show: Who Am U, designed by Samara Darling, Lychee Alkira by Renee Henderson and Bella Davies by Isabella Hoyle Davies. Their works are extremely beautiful, intricate and considered, and the three of them have a fantastic future in fashion ahead.
I’m also a huge fan of Katharina Lou’s work and Youkahana. Although they are in completely different markets, they are both local young designers who I think are working super hard and producing amazing and unique garments.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
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I think that in the Australian fashion industry right now, there needs to be a movement towards bravery. Be bold in wearing pieces that are statements that you feel connected to and treasure forever.
I feel like Australia has been stuck in the world of linens and white basics for a long time, which holds its place for a reason. But I also feel we miss the artistry that the rest of the fashion world holds dear. Let’s be bold!
Dream Australian collaborators?
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A dream Australian collaboration would be with the experts and the pioneers in our local industry. I would love to work with Romance Was Born to create beautiful pieces of wearable art.
Go-to dinner party playlist?
My go-to dinner party playlist to create a vibey and chill atmosphere is a bit of Erykah Badu, Lauryn Hill, Sault and Blood Orange. After a few negronis, I switch the vibe to a bit of a disco or house to have a little boogie. I love Kaytranada or Jamie XX.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
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In my wardrobe right now, many of my favourite pieces are vintage. Last year, I went to New York and treasured a beautiful Vivienne Westwood Red Label pink striped button-up. I also treasure a beautiful Gimaguas top and Zimmermann flared jeans.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
At the moment, my pieces aren’t for sale. However, at some point in the near future, I would like to create a few limited runs of signature items like a little beaded top. I am also open to custom commissions of pieces that are on the runway or to create new custom designs!
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