Niicolé is the New Zealand jewellery label taking cues from Renaissance, Baroque and the ’80s
Photography by Maximillano Dal Masetto
Words by Lara Daly
“My goal from the beginning was to always make extravagant pieces that were as light as possible and made out of good materials – a massive challenge in itself.”
When it comes to jewellery and personal style, people generally fall into one of two categories: minimalist or maximalist. Nicole Pollard, a jeweller from New Zealand, has always belonged to the latter.
Drawn to the drama of antique fashion and ’80s costume jewellery, but frustrated with the headache that comes from wearing such heavy pieces, Nicole decided to learn goldsmithing, so she could create her own designs that were more wearable and long-lasting. “My goal from the beginning was to make extravagant pieces that were as light as possible, made out of precious materials,” she says. Taking cues from Baroque and Renaissance jewel configurations, her work features freshwater pearls, onyx, zirconia, malachite and metals.
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In September, she launched her self-titled label, Niicolé, with her first collection, titled Exalted. It’s been years in the making – not surprising, when you see the level of detail that goes into her intricate chokers and ornate earrings. Naturally, Nicole wanted her campaign imagery to be as high-impact as the pieces themselves.
This involved planning two shoots, one in New Zealand, with Nicole modelling and makeup artist Lochie Stonehouse transforming her into a floating Serge Lutens-style portrait. The second was a collaboration in Sydney with makeup artist Sean Brady, along with a strong team of creative local talent. With her vision now out in the world, she’s been busy making everything to order from her Auckland-based studio.
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Hi Nicole! Tell me a bit about how you got started making jewellery.
I would go to antique shops and collect little, old broken bits of jewellery, a lot of course being costume pieces and trinkets. Just for fun, I would arrange the pieces together into large earrings. A few people started asking me if I could make the earrings for them, but because they were composed of unique pieces I had just found, I couldn’t re-make them. I also felt wrong selling something created by other people, so I decided to study goldsmithing, so I could create my visions with my own hands.
How did your label get started? Talk us through the inspiration, process and the challenges.
I guess my label has only really just begun. I was always inspired by antique jewellery, fashion and costume jewellery. I was infuriated by heavy earrings, they were always my favourite pieces, generally clip-ons made in terrible materials that I could only wear for an hour before they would give me a headache. So my goal from the beginning was to always make extravagant pieces that were as light as possible and made out of good materials – which is a massive challenge in itself.
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What were you trying to achieve from the project when you started and how has this evolved?
As I mentioned above it has always been about creating extravagant but wearable pieces – I guess it has changed in the way that I want this project to be able to transmute into anything from body pieces, collaborations, furniture – anything that feels right to create at the time. So I plan for it to have no bounds.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
This is always hard as I draw from so many inspirations but I would say that my jewellery is a mixture of Baroque and Renaissance mixed with ’80s costume jewellery, made in precious materials.
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What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
When my Orlando and Autoluminescent earrings were created, that was the moment that I felt comfortable my collection was finally complete. They were the earrings I was truly trying to achieve. And my Augenblick choker – this is my favourite and most intricate piece, it took me a long time to create.
The debut imagery for your label is incredible. Tell us about the team behind it, what was your vision?
Thank you so much! I ended up doing two shoots, one in New Zealand and one in Australia. In New Zealand we had an incredible team; Lochie Stonehouse on makeup and editing, Ken Xun Cao on photography and lighting, and nails by Danica Morunga. I modelled it myself – this shoot was inspired by an ’80s self-portrait I saw, as well as imagery by Serge Lutens. Shout out to Tashjian Emia, my production assistant, Vita Reynolds, videographer, and Manon Aulon-Elphick for the videography edit.
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In Australia, we did a campaign and eCommerce imagery which was produced and cast by Studio Mimi (Imogen Wilson and Honor Munrow), photography by Maximillano Dal Masetto, styling by Georgia Harper, makeup by Sean Brady and hair by Gina Yates. Anabel Burrows did the videography. This was such a collaborative effort, we created a strong mood board all together but each creative brought their own elements to make it so special. I was so very lucky to have dear friends going above and beyond for me for both shoots. I am forever grateful.
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What pieces of jewellery do you wear the most?
Earrings and chokers.
What change would you like to see in the local fashion and creative industries?
I feel like the creative industry is so hard for everyone in New Zealand right now. No one has the money to spend on much that isn’t detrimental to living. The major two things I wish, is that people would support our industry instead of buying a million pieces from fast fashion brands. Buy one thing and support young designers, especially NZ made. Two, that people were more adventurous.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can buy my pieces online at niicol-e.com. Every piece is made to order.
To see more of Nicole’s work, follow her here.
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