Melbourne label Oats is creating sexy, subversive wardrobe staples
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIM KAUR FOR OATS
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“I want our customers to feel sexy, held and confident always.”
Those who attended high schools with bland, scratchy, skirt-to-the-floor uniforms will remember the feeling of ‘free dress day’. Pulling up to school in the morning, I remember the extreme internal panic, bubbling excitement and sugar-coated Wheaties gurgling in my stomach.
The night before was a flurry of back-and-forth MSN messages ensuring all four of my friends understood we were wearing black shirts and denim shorts. Anything else would be terrifying.
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The kids who went to non-uniformed schools, like designer Bridie Davey, seemed to really understand personal style. While some of us (me) cycled through wardrobe stages of ‘twee’, rock-chick and Lauren Conrad at rapid-fire speed, people like Bridie just knew.
And it ran in the family, too. Bridie’s mum, a talented seamstress, helped her to design and create her own wardrobe capsule collection – a task she took to with natural talent and enthusiasm.
Years later, the mother-daughter duo is still designing together – but this time, under their own label. Oats is the Naarm-based womenswear brand crafting romantic, inclusive, multifunctional wardrobe pieces.
Working from their local studio, the pair have attracted a slew of Melbourne’s coolest creative talents. Not a weekend goes by without a sighting of their beloved Pop top – and frankly, I’d like to keep it that way.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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My mother has sewn ever since she was a wee pup, so she taught me. She’d make me all the clothes I wanted in the stores – but 10 times longer, of course. I went to a non-uniform high school and mum making my clothes was a massive part of that experience. I’d design the clothes and she’d make them.
In primary school, I went through a massively Legally Blonde and Lizzie Maguire phase. Huge vibe. Mum would make me all the outfits inspired by the stars. I then studied at Melbourne School of Fashion; I did my two-year diploma in Fashion Design and Technology.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
After studying, I started making clothes for my friends and they pushed me (thankfully) into selling my creations on Penny Lane, a Facebook marketplace group. This then led to me creating my own label. I’d design and my mum would pattern; together we would sew and create. Forever grateful for my mum.
There were definite challenges with me being so young and feeling out of my depth. I didn’t have much confidence and was struggling with my mental health at the time. It really set me back, but I had amazing support from my friends and family – especially my mum and dad.
I’ve really grown with confidence in myself and I feel like Oats is a huge part of who I am; it represents the leaps and bounds I made in my early twenties. I’ve really found confidence in who I am. I also found the business side of things challenging but I’m forever learning and have such an amazing creative community around me. We’re expanding right now and opening a new studio. I’ll also be going back to business school this year which is exciting.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time?
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When I first started, I really wanted to create clothing for like-minded people that was affordable but not contributing to fast fashion waste. Even though we can’t call ourselves a completely sustainable fashion brand – as we’re still contributing to new waste – we are forever coming up with new ideas to slow that down. This year, we really want to work on using recycled textiles.
Our goal is to create interesting fabric textures, make wearable-but-sexy silhouettes, be accessible to all body types and stay at an affordable price point. I’d love to have the time to really let go and play around in the studio dying, knotting and layering fabrics. I want our customers to feel sexy, held and confident always.
How would you describe Oats to someone who’s never seen it before?
Romantic, intimate, versatile, inclusive, aerobic.
Where did the name come from?
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‘Oats’ actually came from my first house rabbit. I’m a huge lover of those cute little innocent creatures. Oats followed me around everywhere and it was such a beautiful love story. She was so affectionate and a little firecracker; I even have her tattooed on me. Rabbits are the best, hands down.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
Honestly, my ability to move forward all these years in my work and constantly push myself while maintaining the brand’s integrity. I also love my Scrunch bag [laughs]. It’s so cute. I really love my new work, the Five Tie top and the Seams dress – with its beautiful long sleeves and thumbhole detailing – are my favourites. Also, our Swirl tube top and matching mini skirt are sexy.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
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More business skills and to chill out when something goes wrong.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
Emily Watson is incredible. I also love Postel and Moss Tunstall. All fabulous.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
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I think brands should reconsider using words like ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ without understanding them. People need to change their relationship with the clothes they wear…. to appreciate the items they purchase, to care and mend for them before donating them.
People are beginning to feel concerned about the use of synthetic materials and fast fashion as a concept, but we need to see more attention paid to the environmental impacts of animal products (including wool) and the working conditions of garment workers globally. Only two per cent of garment workers globally are paid a living wage.
Go-to dinner party playlist?
Erika de Casier or Miles Davis. Something sexy and smooth to the ears.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
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Acne, Ka-He, a lot of designer vintage and recycled clothing. For shoes, I have a lot of CamperLab pairs and Prada kitten heels.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
Only my website, but we’re soon to be stocked in Error 404. We also hope to do a studio sale soon here in Melbourne!
See the Oats collection in its entirety here.
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