Onitsuka Tiger is dressing above your ankles for AW24, inspired by a Tokyo winter

Structural silhouettes and wet-look wonders.

Onitsuka Tiger is right in that sweet spot. Currently celebrating its 75th anniversary, the brand has shown that timeless design and dedication to quality really do pay off. Plus, it just so happens its Mexico 66 sneakers have been having a huge renaissance, spotted on the feet of cool people across the internet and the streets. Not a bad birthday present!

This week, the brand debuted its Autumn/Winter ’24 collection at Milan Fashion Week. Guided by creative director Andrea Pompilio, the collection was influenced by the winter ambience in the brand’s Tokyo hometown. Picture this: you arrive in Tokyo during a downpour, rain cascading onto the streets and creating mesmerising patterns and textures.

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Neon lights cast reflections off glossy surfaces, capturing the essence of the city’s rugged, utilitarian cosiness through the storm. This is the inspiration behind Andrea’s signature aesthetic, punctuated with glints of vibrant colour to reflect the electric energy of Tokyo.

The sentiment could be felt from the very beginning. Kicking off the show were looks featuring sculpted, padded and snatched-at-the-waist blazers – both a women’s version and a slightly boxier men’s version – layered over an extremely cropped wool zip-up, made to be worn as a scarf or a top.

The allure of the hourglass silhouette and angular shoulders was complemented by the edginess of the zip-up, which was used to add a contemporary touch to looks throughout the collection. Inspired by the brand’s crowd-favourite track top but with a distinct personality of its own, this piece is likely to get a lot of love off the runway.

Elsewhere, textures including a wet-look fabric inspired by sudden rain storms and dazzling sequin-embroidered silk elevated the softness of slouchy double-cashmere hoodies, plush fleeces and ’70s striped sweaters. Sharp tailoring played against the elegance of fluttery panel dresses and oversized slacks.

An asymmetrical miniskirt barely visible beneath the brand’s first-ever V-neck decollete was a stand-out look, found both in buttery yellow and charcoal colourways. On the men’s side of the runway, a double-breasted coat styled with warm beige wide-leg slacks piqued our interest.

The footwear options were refined and classic: chunky two-tone oxfords, slip-resistant block high heels paired with ankle socks and an innovative hybrid of trekking books with a rubber sole, accented with bold yellow laces. We also got a sneak peek of a new accessory – a double bag with a rounded rectangular silhouette and shoulder strap.

Sticking to a muted colour palette of hazelnut, beige, grey and black alongside the brand’s iconic yellow (in hues ranging from mustard to bright lemon) allowed room to experiment with layering. Individually, the pieces are all infinitely wearable – well-constructed and simple enough to become wardrobe staples with a high-end twist. But they created contemporary silhouettes and unexpected joys when styled together under Pompilio’s keen eye.

For brands as squarely in the public eye as Onitsuka Tiger is right now, creating a collection that honours its heritage and roots while still bringing in something fresh isn’t an easy feat. With this Autumn/Winter ’24 offering, Onitsuka Tiger has proven why it deserves its top spot after 75 years.

To shop the new Onitsuka Tiger range, head here.