Melbourne label Penthouse Jeans is upcycling old denim to create custom pieces
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLIE HAWKS
WORDS BY ENYA ROBERTS
βA house party where costume and comfort can be found on the same dance floor.β
As a staple in most wardrobes, denim tends not to be the star of the show.Β Melbourne fashion label Penthouse Jeans is on a mission to change that. Using a combination of deconstruction, distressing, embellishment, bleaching and over-dying, Penthouseβs upcycled collection is comprised of centre-stage denim.
The brainchild of local designer Charlotte Campbell, Penthouse Jeans uses primarily secondhand materials to create playful-yet-functional denim clothing and accessories. Charlotteβs creations aim to celebrate βthe joys of nostalgia, self-expression and the sentimentality of pre-loved fashionβ.
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Her latest collection, Turf, is made in the signature Penthouse Jeans style β with punchy colours, distressed details and lots of embellishment. Below, Charlotte discusses how the collection came to be.
Tell us about you. Whatβs your creative background?
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I moved to Melbourne 10 years ago to study fine art at RMIT, where I specialised in printmaking. At the time I thought I wanted to be an βartisteβ, however, my focus on screen-printed secondhand textiles led me to a more design-led practice.
When I look back at the work I was creating, Iβm gobsmacked at the way my art school research has influenced the way I design and make now. Iβve always been obsessed with the power that costume and dress have over our identities, and the way sentimental items can help us find belonging in the world.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
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I fantasised about Penthouse Jeans in lockdown, where I found myself back on the sewing machine and piecing together outfits to wear out and about once restrictions lifted. Fabric stores were closed at the time and I found myself unpicking a few pairs of denim jeans and jackets to make use of.
I wanted to extend the design process in a way that meant I could engage with others creatively after so long in isolation. I dreamt of collaborating with like-minded individuals. [I wanted to] transform their live-in jeans into exciting new looks that still held the same memories as their favourite pair of jeans.
How would you describe Penthouse Jeans to someone whoβs never seen it before?
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If I were to describe the first impression Iβd like the label to make, it would be something along the lines of aΒ house party where costume and comfort can be found on the same dancefloor, celebrating the joys of nostalgia, self-expression and the sentimentality of pre-loved fashion.
Adding overdyed denim to the guestlist is sure to receive a few intrigued glances from across the room while inviting rhinestones, custom embellishment and (sometimes obnoxious) branding bring unexpected impulsive energy.
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Highlighting the gradual wearing and distressing of the fabric embraces the uniqueness and longevity of each original garment. You’ll wonder if it’s intentional, in a similar way you may question the subtle rustic details on a can of White Claw.
Where did the name come from?
The collection is developed in what is referred to by friends as βthe penthouseβ, an iconic top-floor apartment nestled above one of Melbourneβs finest heritage buildings. It seemed fitting to name the project after the space it was born in.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
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It seems the next wave of Australian designers is prioritising transparency and taking steps to reduce the impact of their industry. Whether this comes from an authentic ethical standpoint… or is simply just greenwashing β [thatβs] another story.
Although I appreciate this shift in priorities, I am still shocked at the amount of sales advertising thrown around by these brands. I understand there is a responsibility for companies to spend to validate investors, however, I think the volume of clothing we are producing is completely out of order.
A brand can’t gain a truly loyal customer base until they are excited (and comfortable) to invest in your full-priced new arrivals. I personally believe that we each have a responsibility to consume sustainably and that fashion must be reframed as more than just disposable clothing with a wear-once appeal.
Dream Australian collaborators?
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I have recently come across quite a few denim pieces by the Australian label Face Off at my local op shop. My dream collaboration would be to have access to their 2000βs sample archives, with free reign to take it all apart. There are so many interesting finishing techniques and strange details, it would be incredible to sort through everything they produced during that decade to look for inspiration.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
As always, Iβm cycling through a lot of Depop and charity shop finds. In particular, a few denim pieces by Billabong and Gap that I canβt bear to customise for myself just yet β their time will come!
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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Penthouse Jeans has just launched a new website and collection named Turf. Each piece is one of a kind and available on the online store. For anyone interested in customisation of their own, applications are open for the next round on November 12. As there are limited spots available before the end of the year, itβs first in, best-dressed. Our range of extras and available options can be found on our website if youβre looking for inspiration.
Browse the Penthouse Jeans collection here.
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