Phàrlain is the emerging New Zealand label with a focus on feminine knitwear and relaxed wardrobe staples

“I’ve always thought fashion should not be taken overly seriously… it’s something to have fun with.”

Launched at the start of 2023, the New Zealand label Phàrlain was born with a very simple goal – to create “beautifully crafted things”. Gaining their start working for other designers in the local fashion industry, friends Aimee McFarlane and Brooke Nelson combined knowledge to bring a project of their own to life.

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Phàrlain’s first collection, Winter ’23, honed in on feminine knitwear, spotlighting soft, brushed merino sweaters in shades like cornflower blue, magenta, buff and ivory. The label’s newly released summer collection offers something new – delicate hand-crocheted pieces, like this brilliant blue fringed dress. Below, Aimee speaks on the label’s beginnings, and what’s next for Phàrlain.

Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?

My fashion journey started at about seven years old on my mum’s old Husqvarna sewing machine, making clothes for my Barbie… [before] progressing to matching early ’90s twin sets in fluro colours for my younger sister and I.

[I made] circle skirts on big elastic waistbands with matching tank tops. After design school, I co-founded Lonely Hearts (Club) with a friend. We worked on that together for eight years before I departed and went on to design womenswear for several other New Zealand brands. I’m also currently a Senior Product Designer at AS Colour.

How did Pharlain get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.

Phàrlain was born out of a desire to be creative on my own terms. I couldn’t be luckier to have partnered up with my long-time friend Brooke Nelson. She is a business powerhouse, even-keeled, focused and kind.

I was floundering with what to do about the knitwear idea I’d had floating around for a few years and she got in behind [me] and offered her support and expertise – which are totally different to mine. We have both had to learn and re-learn a lot of things about starting/re-starting and running a business. There is so much admin!

What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?

I’ve had the privilege of working for many iconic New Zealand labels over the last 20 years. I’ll never tire of seeing someone in the street wearing something I have had a hand in putting together – but again, I was craving that unique, personal creative outlet. Phàrlain is providing that opportunity. We are just coming to the end of our very first season and about to launch our second for spring/summer ’23.

We are, and [always] will be constantly evolving, finding our space, and figuring out exactly what we want Phàrlain to be. I like the thought of this being a constant evolution. Whether we get it right or wrong at any given moment, we hope to keep it interesting and memorable.

How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?

Beautiful and bold, Phàrlain embraces a relaxed, feminine aesthetic with a touch of the unexpected. I’d like to think there is a little personality in the brand and product – confident but carefree. I’ve always thought fashion should not be taken overly seriously… [it’s] something to have fun with, so hopefully this is conveyed through what we do at Phàrlain.

For winter 2023, we designed and produced 100 per cent merino sweaters in a bright colour palette, and for spring/summer 2023, we have widened our offering to include some incredible handmade crochet shirts and tops. After summer, who knows – opportunity awaits.

What are you most proud of in your work on your label?

Honestly, what I am most proud of is being brave enough to give this another crack. I’m more of a behind-the-scenes person, so putting… [my]self out there can feel both terrifying and exhilarating. Of course, nothing would happen without the help of our friends and families and the mad amounts of support we get. I feel grateful and proud of that support.

What do you wish you knew when you started?

Not to take every disappointment to heart – this is still something I work on regularly. There are always peaks and troughs, so just try your best to keep a balance. And make sure you keep on top of the admin!

Who do you think is most exciting in Australian and New Zealand fashion right now?

New Zealand fashion is having a really great moment right now. [There’s] the ultimate cool factor and star quality from the gals at Paris Georgia, Wynn Hamlyn is a creative genius, the tailoring at Harris Tapper is superb and I’m quite enjoying what’s happening with menswear brands Beach Brains and Manaaki. [And it’s] not exactly fashion but Wellington-based perfumers Able are dreamy.

Dream Australian and New Zealand collaborators?

[A] collaboration with New Zealand artist Kate Newby would be a dream. How that would look I’m not sure – [maybe] some of her door handles reimagined as buttons? Or a knitted/crochet bag collab with New Zealand designer Yu Mei.

Who is in your wardrobe right now?

I’m pairing my Phàrlain kinds with the coolest pair of pants by Benjamin Alexander – [they’re] high-waisted, wild-legged pants with a cargo pocket from the knee to almost the hem, in a dusty pink. Kinda wild, but I love them.

How can we buy one of your pieces?

We have some excellent stockists throughout New Zealand and offer international shipping on our online store.

Browse the Pharlain collection here.