Photo Diary: How Grace Lillian Lee prepares for M/FW

A look at the dyeing, weaving and storytelling behind the designer’s latest collection, ‘Liberty’.

To the outside observer or attendee, Fashion Weeks look incredibly glamorous. There’s champagne, goodie bags, beautiful people and, of course, the clothing. But to anyone who works in the industry, behind the scenes can be a rather different affair.

For a designer, showing a new collection at Melbourne Fashion Week (M/FW) involves several months jam-packed with decisions and moving parts. Pulling it off is a challenge for any fashion house, but when you’re a designer who prioritises slow-fashion practices like Grace Lillian Lee, the lead-up is particularly intense.

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Adding to the pressure was an extremely short deadline, due to Grace receiving an invite to the Australian Fashion Now event in New York City to exhibit her work. “This timing provided me with a wealth of inspiration and the concept of ‘liberty’ struck a chord with me, as it relates to both New York and my own heritage and narrative. It didn’t take long for me to settle on that idea,” she says.

Creating her Liberty collection took a considerable amount of time, with most of the fabrics custom-dyed in-house and constructed using traditional ‘grasshopper’ weaving techniques – a practice unique to her Torres Strait heritage, which she describes as “meditative”.

Having had their debut in New York, Grace’s collection is back home and set to walk down the Fashion x Music runway this Wednesday night (we’ll be there, as an official M/FW media partner and big fans of her work). Below, she shares a glimpse into her creative making process, a peek behind the scenes.

Sketching

By sketching my ideas initially, I can draw heavily on my cultural and artistic knowledge, which guides me toward a finalised concept. It was during this phase that my thoughts about Lady Liberty first took shape.

Weaving

My weaving journey started with Dr. Ken Thiaday Senior, who introduced me to the ‘grasshopper weave’ from the Torres Strait Islands. I have since evolved this technique into my own signature style. I often find myself weaving while traveling or watching TV, as it serves as a form of meditation and connection to culture for me.

Dyeing

Inspired by the Australian landscape and knowing that these gowns would make their way to New York, I aimed to capture the essence of my homeland throughout this journey. The ochre earth and boundless blue skies are synonymous with Australia, so we custom-dyed our fabric to achieve the perfect colour we envisioned – this also aided in meeting our tight turnaround time.

Dye results

Exploring the interplay of tension, weight, colour and expression, this fabric lets me seamlessly weave my designs into gowns, enhancing creativity without stressing the main material – each creation a learning journey.

Making with Susan

I carefully choose the makers that will help to tell my story. From draping to details, every aspect highlights the art of garment creation. By prioritising slow fashion, customised fits, and the storytelling woven into every piece, I guarantee that my clothing embodies my collective story of culture and connection.

When all materials collide

Once all the materials arrive, a wave of excitement fills the studio! This signifies the beginning of our creative journey beyond my weaving, allowing us to lay the groundwork for my garments. The dye has set, and the weaves are complete, so it’s onward from here.

Placing weaves

The positioning of my weaves is significant, often acting as their own storyteller. There are times when I spend hours carefully arranging and adjusting them to ensure they convey the right narrative.

Chaos before the calm

In the final weeks leading up to our project activations, the studio frequently takes on a life of its own. We find ourselves busy securing models and ensuring that the gowns fit and flow as I envisioned. There’s an exciting buzz in the air as we eagerly anticipate our arrival in New York.

Creating continued…

Whenever possible, I dedicate time to honing my craft, and as it begins to take form and transform into ‘Liberty,’ the reality of my upcoming journey is starting to sink in. A Torres Strait Islander weaving within the heart of New York.

Almost there

With both gowns almost finished, it’s time to shift our attention to a New York editorial shoot. There is so much to discover beyond the event – let’s see what Vogue has to say! After all, this is a historic moment that is capturing Australia’s contemporary fashion identity.

Ladies of Liberty

During an exhilarating trip to New York for the Australia Now presentation, I seized the opportunity to orchestrate a captivating editorial shoot that highlighted my exquisite gowns amidst the city’s vibrant core. This experience was a dream realised and a genuine testament to the spirit of liberty.

Buy tickets to see Grace Lillian Lee’s collection at the Fashion x Music Runway, here.