Seven emerging designers to get on your radar now
photography by @larzstudios for by sponza
words by daisy henry
Get to know a few of the designer’s showcasing at this year’s Emerging Artist Collective runway.
For young designers, student runways are a vital way to have their work seen on a national stage. Often times, they’re in the final stages of their courses, refining their skills on conceptual collections that are show-stopping displays of creativity.
At the other end, runways like Melbourne Fashion Week’s (M/FW) Closing Showcase presents an opportunity for up-and-coming designers who are typically (but not always), years into building their brand. By this stage, they’ve likely had editorial features, released multiple collections and in some cases, opened their own bricks-and-mortar shopfront.
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But what about those in between – the designers who are no longer at the student level but aren’t yet well-known among fashion’s It crowd?
This is a core component guiding the Emerging Artists Collective (EAC), an initiative first launched in 2021 by Melbourne-based Kat Stevens. From designers, to makeup artists, photographers, models and the other people making up the fashion industry, the EAC is all about championing emerging creatives and providing ongoing opportunities.
This week, that looks like an independent runway hosted by EAC as part of M/FW on Thursday and unsurprisingly, it was one of the first to sell out on the program (though there is a waitlist!). Aptly titled, ‘The Future’, it will feature the works of 28 local, emerging designers.
“We had a lot of submissions this year, more than ever,” Kat says. “We focus on diversity, in both sizing, clothing and styles. We actually added in more designers than usual because the talent was so fantastic.”
Though it’s near impossible to narrow down, here are seven designers featured in this year’s EAC runway to get familiar with ahead of the show.
Chelsea Farquhar
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Chelsea Farquhar was a contributor to EAC’s ‘Unarchived’ runway 2024 and we’re excited to hear the designer is back again this year. Having completed her Honours in Fine Art at the Victorian College of the Arts in 2020, she’s since built a reputation for her sculptural, exaggerated and playful designs.
Paris Jade Burrows
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Paris Burrows is a multidisciplinary designer whose work crosses the boundaries of fashion, screen and live performance. Having graduated from NIDA with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Design for Performance, she’s now working as the head designer of her eponymous label, Paris Jade Burrows, and preparing to debut her first collection, It’s Real if it Bleeds.
404 Pieces
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404 Pieces is the creation of Claire, an apprentice jeweller crafting wearable gothic, Victorian and Baroque inspired art from her bedroom. Her most recent collaboration with designer Ursula Bucek’s ‘To Have and To Hold’ (who is also featured in the EAC runway) features chatelaines made from deconstructed book stands, trinkets and other upcycled materials.
Annie Berry
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Inspired by her own experiences of limited size diversity in the fashion industry, designer Annie Berry uses anything from deadstock fabrics to roadside signs to craft inclusive garments and accessories. The collection showing at this year’s EAC runway will feature locally made custom hardware and repurposed items.
By Sponza
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Having first picked up sewing from her Nonna, designer Lauren Sponza launched her own eponymous label in 2024. Featuring stripes, asymmetrical hemlines, slouchy hoodies and micro shorts, Lauren says By Sponza stands for “expression, sexiness and empowerment”.
Iri
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“Iri is about the space between chaos and clarity,” designer Helen wrote in a recent Instagram post. What started as a passion project has since evolved into a fashion brand, drawing inspiration from films, literature and other modalities. From ruffles to appliqués, Iri’s garments carry a celestial, otherwordly feeling.
Drenched in Jewels
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Drenched in Jewels is the creation of Naarm-based designer, Emi Hemphill. Having first launched in 2014, it wasn’t until 2020 that Emi expanded her range to include hand-made sterling silver and solid gold pieces. Most recently, she’s begun offering one-of-a-kind items, alongside a core collection.
Find more from the EAC here.
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