Sguscio is the experimental Naarm jewellery label mixing science and fantasy
PHOTOGRAPHY BY EVAN XIAO
HAIR AND MAKEUP BY GABE HENDERSON
MODELLED BY Alexander Sinclair AT RPD MODELS
Words by Enya Roberts
“I think that ‘goblin-made’ sums up my work perfectly.”
With its delicate designs, intricate details and metallic shine, jewellery has long been a way to add a personal touch to our outfits. Handmade jewellery takes that ‘personal touch’ element to the next level, producing pieces imbued with care and sentimentality. Creatives like Melbourne-based silversmith Bobby Corica take inspiration from heritage and tradition to craft thoughtful, distinctive pieces, designed to last a lifetime.
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Bobby’s label Sguscio Studio is characterised by an ever-evolving, experimental style. Think whimsical designs with a contemporary twist, inspired by themes like biological science and dark fantasy lore. Below, Bobby speaks on the label’s journey so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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My name is Bobby Corica, and I am a Naarm-based silversmith/designer who runs a jewellery and objects label, Sguscio Studio. I am primarily self-taught in my practice. I initially attended classes to receive a Cert II in manufacturing jewellery in 2019. Due to a disconnect with the coursework, I stopped attending after a few weeks and started teaching myself.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
In a way, it began due to a sheer desire to feel fulfilled creatively in a way that I couldn’t get through my (previous) photography practice. I wanted to make something with my hands and I love working with fire. Silversmithing was more accessible than glassblowing at the time. After spending time with the materials and processes, I realised I had some affinity for it and decided to pursue it.
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The challenges surrounding me starting my label are probably the same for any designer who didn’t come through design or visual arts pathways (universities, TAFE, etc). There’s a fair amount of imposter syndrome, a lack of connection to the community, and a general lack of friendliness when trying to establish yourself within that community.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved, and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
Then, much of my work was based on my interest in biological sciences and experimenting with different processes. Chain-making became a pivotal part of my process by applying my interest in genetics to a jewellery medium.
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Currently, my work is exploring a more playful approach to design. I’m leaning into a more fantasy/cursed aesthetic while still exploring ideas around sustainability, inheritance and genetics. I also enjoy pushing the limitations of my materials and creating mixed textures and finishes on my pieces.
How would you describe your jewellery to someone who’s never seen it before?
‘Cursed Italian jewels’ and ‘cult-leader couture’ are much-loved anecdotes from people who have supported my work over the last few years. However, I think that ‘goblin-made’ sums up my work perfectly.
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What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
Although pride is a sin, I will say that I am incredibly proud of what I have been able to achieve within the last year alone. I have been able to show my work in various design contexts, such as Melbourne Design Week and Craft Contemporary.
I’ve also been curated into some amazing group shows, such as Pearlescent (Jam Factory), Gloam (It’s Nice Inside x Misc Objet at Oigall Projects), and It’s Not Just Blue (Craft Victoria). Last month, I received the exciting news that I had been named one of the ISS Institute’s Italian Australian Fellowship recipients for 2023. This will see me travel to Italy next year to research sustainable design methodologies.
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Lastly, I have spent the last six months working collaboratively with the NGV on the Alexander McQueen: Mind, Mythos, Muse exhibition, now open at NGV International. My involvement in this collaboration was making headpieces and jewellery in response to McQueen’s AW08 collection, The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, and creating a series of works for the NGV Design Store.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion/jewellery right now?
There are so many labels whose work I absolutely adore, and my current faves are Sacred Steel Armour, Moss Tunstall and 27Mollys.
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What about the Australian fashion/jewellery industry needs to change?
There must be a shift in using more sustainable materials within the Australian jewellery industry, particularly when it comes to our Australian suppliers. Suppliers available to us locally have highly misleading (and hard to find) waste recycling policies. We are so behind in this aspect that it is very embarrassing and cringe.
Dream project?
My dream project would be to make one-off designs for a fantasy movie or TV series (with big budgets, of course). I am really leaning into my nerdy-fantasy roots at the moment, and I think everyone is allured by the fantasy genre. After the last few years we have had, it feels natural that the world is going through a fantasy revival.
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Go-to dinner party playlist?
My music taste at the moment is almost exclusively deceased Italian women from the ’60s or anything from the Ministry of Sound 2008… and the season two White Lotus intro.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
I’ve been wearing some of my pieces by my friend Jpalm (NZ) alongside works by Matty Bovan (UK). Another friend of mine, Izzy Buttle, is a constant source of amazing handmade garments, and I am lucky to have a few pieces by her.
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How can we buy one of your pieces?
Currently, my pieces can be purchased via my website, Craft Victoria, or the NGV Design store. I also have a candle holder available through Its Nice Inside.
Browse the Sguscio Studio collection here.
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