The underrated designers that stylists are keeping a close eye on
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Blake Azar
as told to daisy henry
The designers to keep on your radar.
Australian stylists have a certain knack for spotting emerging talent. Long before Christopher Esber and Albus Lumen became household names, stylists were pulling their early works. It’s a stylist’s job to keep ahead of the curve, meaning they’re often the first to spot emerging and undiscovered talent. Many even make a point of keeping across the work of fashion students, pulling from their graduate collections for upcoming editorials.
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There’s no set criteria when it comes to predicting which designers will make their mark in the industry, but as is often the case, stylists know best. Here are six emerging Australian designers local stylists have got on their radar.
Ruby Pedder
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Chosen by: Kirsty Barros
It’s so inspiring seeing a return to craft all over the Australian industry. There is a tangible desire for pieces that have been touched by humans and a resurgence in the perceived value of garments that are infused with time, love and consideration. Rube’s pieces have crazy pleating and print detail and a texture that warms my heart.
Joseph McHugh
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Chosen by: Sabrina Raso
Spoilt with choice over the breadth of talented emerging and independent designers, my expression of sourcing and styling becomes an inspiring task. Joseph McHugh is creating wearable art, a collection of clothing and accessories that is playfully erotic.
The detail and mischief explored in every piece is translated and so clearly embodied by anyone that wears it. Studs, high lapels, draping, the very subtle hint of a peplum, it’s all there. The designs are the perfect balance of a muted and popped colour palette with playful structured silhouettes and an accessory to go with every look.
To put it plainly, it’s the blueprint for getting dressed. Two personal favourites amongst Joseph’s existing designs are the Leather Corset and Wool Cloche Cap (with a third unnamed favourite that I’m waiting to put at the head of an upcoming editorial).
Cezen
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Chosen by: Billy Chambers
I’ve been keeping a close eye on Cezen, a Melbourne based denim label founded by two best mates with a shared obsession for how denim wears, fades and evolves. The brand launched earlier this year with a small event in Melbourne, introducing their thoughtful approach to denim and design. Proudly Australian made, Cezen is rooted in slow fashion, unisex silhouettes crafted from locally sourced deadstock denim. Each piece is limited run and carefully considered, from fabric to finish. Their use of raw denim allows garments to age uniquely with the wearer, while details like exposed seams and stacked buttons reflect a quiet attention to detail. The button placement in particular is a standout, simple yet effective.
Where Cezen stands apart is in its restraint. There is no over branding or unnecessary detail, just denim designed to evolve, not expire. Their latest drop, Sweet Leaf Black, features a black over indigo denim that fades to reveal deep blue undertones. To complement Cezen’s clean lines and signature buttoning, I’d pair their denim with a flat leather shoe and cropped tee, my go to is from Monphell. In winter, I’d throw on a cosy knit. Bassike’s latest collection has some beautiful options.
Tobias Sangkuhl
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Chosen by: Kirsty Barros
Tobias painstakingly handcrafts the most decadent chainmail pieces! Fun fact, he hand crafts all the chain mail for the otherworldly brand, Nicol and Ford who have catapulted themselves into Australian fashion royalty status.
Sanctuaire
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Chosen by: Carlos Mangubat
Sanctuaire is one to watch. It’s dark streetwear point of view – in a way, it feels like what would happen if Balmain met Moncler. It’s with utility.
What impressed me the most was this designer’s work ethic and level of commitment to create something with a voice. Working alongside her for her label gave me hope that her generation hasn’t come to just rely on shortcuts and outsourcing to create a brand.
Niamh Robin Jury
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Chosen by: Madeline Assi
I came across Niamh Robin Jury in the most romantic new-age way, scrolling on Tik Tok a few months ago, and since then I’ve been completely captivated by her work. In such a short span of time, the designer has already expanded her collection and landed a feature in British Vogue, so she’s definitely one to watch!
The charm behind Niamh’s work is the inspiration by what she describes as the ‘beauty found within the chaos of a person’ where she explores the notion that varying elements compete with, and thus complete each other.
Her pieces often feel like wearable daydreams, rich with a nostalgic undercurrent that recalls vintage romance while still speaking to a modern, youthful spirit. As a stylist, I especially love garments designed with versatility in mind, like Niamh Robin Jury’s pieces, which encourage connection, playfulness, and individual expression. Her designs can be worn in multiple ways, allowing people to really make them their own. Niamh’s work feels like a breath of fresh air in the fashion world, and I genuinely can’t wait to see where she takes things next.
Wilson Jedd Adams
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Chosen by: Kirsty Barros
Wilson Jedd Adams is a young Melbourne designer whose graduate collection showcased incredible sculptural and wearable couture art, created from collaged waste. I want to see more of this in the industry!
For more on emerging student designers, try this.
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