Amiss is the Sydney-based fashion label taking notes from engineers
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSHUA GRAY
AS TOLD TO MARYEL SOUSA
“With the right tools, vision alone can open doors and shape the future of fashion.”
For Sydney-based brand Amiss’ founder and designer Vanessa Gray, design inspiration has come from unlikely places. After a pandemic-related hiatus from her fashion studies in New York, Vanessa found herself surrounded by researchers and engineers at a medical device company. Here, she realised that the problem-solving techniques used in STEM could completely change how she approached design.
The label’s runway debut at Wings Fashion Festival in Sydney marked its first major step into high-tech manufacturing, with accessible tools like 3D printing, computer-aided design and laser engraving bringing concepts to life. The result was an intoxicating blend of futuristic fearlessness and delicate beauty that challenges traditional fashion norms.
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“Fashion isn’t just run by corporations,” Vanessa says, “It’s led by designers and that’s powerful.” Fresh off the runway, Vanessa shares more about the brand’s bedroom beginnings, the tech that’s moving her and where she’s taking the brand next.
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Fashion Journal: Hi Vanessa! Tell us about your fashion background.
Vanessa Gray: I’m the designer and founder of Amiss, currently based in Sydney. I’ve been infatuated with fashion since I was a kid. Growing up as a woman of colour, I always felt a bit different and out of place. Fashion gave me the confidence to own my presence, style and personality. My Sri Lankan heritage and experience growing up in Australia profoundly shaped my runway debut.
A few years ago, the fashion scene in Australia felt a little conservative, and I ended up at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York. When the pandemic hit, I had to take a two-year break from studying. That pause was crucial for my growth as an artist.
While looking for work, I veered off the traditional fashion path and landed a role in research at ResMed, working alongside engineers. It opened my eyes to how my creative problem-solving skills could apply in completely new ways. Over the next two years, I built my brand while finishing my degree.
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How did Amiss get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
I started the concept in 2021. I’d wanted to start a career in fashion when I returned home, but it was tough. Fashion jobs felt uninspiring and corporate. After landing in medical research, I gained confidence, saved money and decided to create the job I couldn’t find.
In 2022, I launched Amiss, dropping small capsule collections twice a year from my bedroom. The first year was all about finding the right suppliers to handle my crazy designs. Factories in Asia worked best for me. They offer high-quality, small-scale manufacturing, and it’s easier to import to Australia. Lower minimums have made it more accessible, and many sustainable fabric innovations happen in places like Hong Kong and China.
I was trained as a designer, not a businesswoman, so one of the biggest challenges has been learning to separate my emotions from business decisions. I care so deeply about the creative side that it’s been a process to step back, look at the bigger picture, and make choices that keep the brand moving forward.
What is the significance of the label’s name?
When deciding on my brand name, I thought about words that describe how I see beauty. ‘Amiss’ means appreciating the wabi sabi nature of life, noticing the delicate beauty in the world around you and creating your own path. I want my pieces to be worn and reinterpreted by each customer in their own way.
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How has Amiss evolved and what are you trying to achieve now?
At the time, I just felt like I had something I needed to express and share with the world. Amiss doesn’t follow, it sets the tone. We look ahead, not around. I also wanted to prove that fashion can be both artistic and commercial. I passionately believe that by seeding more artistic value into our work, we can compete with ultra-fast fashion.
I started exploring engineering-based techniques to improve design. At the core of Amiss is our dedication to research and development. Our debut runway show marked our first major step into high-tech, advanced manufacturing, using accessible tools like scanning, 3D printing, computer-aided design and laser engraving to bring imaginative concepts to life.
Ideas are the true currency of our time, especially for young Australian creatives who don’t have capital or traditional industry access. With the right tools, their vision alone can open doors and shape the future of fashion.
Can you tell me a bit about how you source your materials and your supply chain?
I’ve always cared about quality and technique, so it was important for me to get this part right. I learned that recycled synthetics aren’t always the best choice for the environment. It’s not just about whether your factory is sustainable – it’s about your fabric mill.
Sourcing locally has always been a goal, but the Australian manufacturing industry is scarce. Some factories turned down my designs because they were too complex. Others didn’t have the time to take on new labels.
My new collection is the first time I’ve taken a fully material-led approach. I’ve partnered with Remnant Warehouse in Sydney to turn deadstock materials into new textiles. I’m also super excited to collaborate with my uncle in Sri Lanka to create handmade batik textiles. This intricate wax dyeing process gives the fabric a completely unique surface every time.
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How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
Bohemian country witch.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
I’m really proud of our shoes. They hold a special place in my heart because I took a chance on something I wasn’t formally trained in. Now I’m being mentored by master shoemaker Darren Biscoff. I love how endless the possibilities feel. I’m also super proud of our in-house content. My brother recently taught himself photography. It’s made it so much easier for us to capture our work on the spot and bring my creative direction to life.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
The importance of file organisation. Set up your systems early or it will haunt you later! If your gut tells you something feels off, listen to it. Don’t rush to launch just because you’re worried about staying relevant. Focus on your marketing, personal brand and creating high-quality content. You don’t need to drop full collections right away. Take your time, go at your own pace, and trust that when the timing is right, you’ll know. Don’t compare yourself to others. Discover your own path.
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Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
The most exciting talent right now is coming out of the Wings Fashion Festival. Every designer brought something fresh, and I feel so lucky to have been part of it. I have to spotlight my friend Joash, the designer behind Joeto. He’s a true couturier, which is incredibly rare for our generation. His dedication to craftsmanship and making by hand is something I deeply admire.
I really respect what Alvi Chung is doing with her brand. She’s a pioneer for emerging designers, not just with her clothes, but with where and how she shows them. There’s a new wave emerging from Sydney that feels fearless and unfiltered. Fashion isn’t just run by corporations. It’s led by designers and that’s powerful.
What about the local fashion industry needs to change?
The government needs to start taking fashion more seriously. Australians consume more clothing per capita than any other country, yet we offer so little in return when it comes to locally made garments. We must also invest in manufacturing and automation technology to bring production back home.
Australia is one of the world’s top producers of fine wool, yet we don’t have the infrastructure to spin it into yarn or turn it into finished products. With proper investment and support, we could create better clothing made by Australians, while also strengthening our global reputation.
Another huge gap is the lack of proper incubator programs for emerging designers. It often feels like an uphill battle, especially when you’re trying to learn the business, navigate the supply chain, and deal with industry politics all at once.
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Dream Australian or New Zealand collaborators?
Redback Boots (pls respond to my DM lol).
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
Right now, it’s pretty much only vintage and Amiss in my wardrobe. My favourite labels to shop vintage are Blumarine, Vivienne Westwood and Diesel.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can shop our pieces directly online. If you’re based in Sydney or Melbourne and want to try something on, we’re currently stocked at So Familia and Error404.
What’s your advice for emerging creatives?
I know it’s hard right now for young Australians to feel like dreaming is even an option. Housing is out of reach, prices are rising and there’s a real scarcity of creative jobs. But the internet is our friend. It connects us to the world, even though we live on an island far away.
You can build something here that reaches beyond Australia. You can grow a brand that speaks to new markets. This is the age of personal branding, of using what’s at your fingertips to carve your own path. Being a digital native is your advantage and the key to breaking into the industry.
Follow along with Amiss here.
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