“I tried to ‘female gaze’ certain elements”: Inside student designer Tay Chen’s graduate collection
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIRA PEDLAR
WORDS BY DAISY HENRY
“I would describe my collection to someone who’s never seen it as a ‘safe place’.”
RMIT textile and fashion design student Tay Chen‘s graduate collection elicits a distinct feeling of softness. With voluminous white lace, ruffles and tulle, super-sized bonnets and bubble skirts, her designs push back against elements and objects typically associated with constraint. “My design focuses on expressing the inner beauty and strength of females rather than only catering to the aesthetic standard of the external image,” she says.
Tay’s journey into fashion began after moving to Melbourne, where her initial studies in textile design evolved into a passion for garment making. This shift ignited her decision to pursue fashion design, allowing her to explore the transformative power of textiles in creating wearable art.
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Now, Tay is gearing up to present her graduate collection at one of Melbourne Fashion Week’s most anticipated showcases: the Student Collections Runway. As an official media partner again this year, we’re counting down the days until next Tuesday, when we’ll get to see Tay’s designs alongside an array of talented student designers. It’s a chance for the next generation to showcase their work in front of their peers, as well as some key players in the local industry.
Creating the 12 designs in her graduate collection wasn’t without its challenges, particularly when it came to working with unconventional materials like paper fabrics. Tay tells us that one top was made directly onto the mannequin, allowing it to take on a more natural body shape. “[This] made the production process both challenging and enjoyable,” Tay reflects.
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Tell me a bit about how you got started in fashion. Did you always want to be a designer?
I have always been enthusiastic when it came to drawing and creating ever since I was a kid, but unlike many great designers, I didn’t grow up with the goal of becoming a fashion designer. My interest in design and making garments started to develop after I moved to Melbourne.
I initially studied textile design, but over the years I realised that I was more interested in the process of making garments. After completing textile design, I was curious about how it could be displayed on the body. These could be concluded as reasons for choosing fashion design and I’m really glad I did.
Tell me about the collection you’re showing at M/FW. What was your inspiration?
My collection conveys feminine power by breaking free from the constraints of unhealthy aesthetics. It’s inspired by Alison Matthews David‘s book, Fashion Victims and draws inspiration from corsets and crinolines. My design focuses on expressing the inner beauty and strength of females rather than only catering to the aesthetic standard of the external image.
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My work is an extension of my graduate collection, with some adjustments and added details to enrich it. I feel incredibly lucky to have the chance to further refine my graduate collection and share it with even more people after finishing my studies.
What has the process been like and were there many challenges along the way?
My collection has 12 pieces in total, including accessories like corsets and untraditional crinoline styles. The process was quite challenging, but I genuinely enjoyed it. The most challenging part was working with some fabrics made from paper. I experimented with different materials to make sure they retained the texture while also being flexible and tough. There is one top was created directly on a mannequin, allowing it to take on a natural body shape which made the production process both challenging and enjoyable.
How would you describe your collection to someone who’s never seen it before?
I would describe my collection to someone who’s never seen it as a ’safe place’. It’s soft, inclusive, and has a sense of protection.
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What are you most proud of in your work so far?
What I’m most proud of in my work is that I’ve stuck to my own ideas and managed to express them through my designs. I tried to ‘female gaze’ certain elements and objects that are typically associated with constraints, giving them a fresh, modern interpretation.
What do you wish you knew when you started on your collection?
I wish my sewing skills could be better, especially when it comes to sewing boning. If I had been more skilled at that, it would have saved me a lot of time while working on the final pieces.
Who is exciting you the most in Australian fashion right now?
I’m interested in many local brands, so it’s hard to say who excites me the most. But overall, I’m very drawn to Australia’s slow fashion and sustainability movement. Local brands here have put in a lot of effort, from material selection to brand building. The industry’s ethics in minimising the impact of fashion on the environment is something to learn from.
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What about the local fashion industry do you think needs to change?
Since I don’t have much work experience in the industry yet, as a fashion student I always felt there was a bit of a gap between students and the industry. I hope there could be more professional collaboration opportunities for students, like projects involving photoshoots or styling – it would be amazing to have that kind of bridge.
Who are your dream collaborators?
My dream collaborator would be Michaela Stark. I absolutely appreciate her design style and the attitude she conveys through her work. She reclaims autonomy over her body in her own way, which inspires me.
We share the same views and perspectives but express them in completely opposite ways. It would be incredibly exciting and fascinating to collaborate with her!
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Where do you hope to be in the next five years?
I’m looking forward to gaining some work experience over the next few years while I continue my studies, possibly in different countries. In the next five years, I hope I will have a chance to return to my hometown in China after my student career is completed and establish my own fashion brand someday.
How can we see more of your work?
I mainly share my work on Instagram, but I also have a personal website. Most of the content will be on Instagram first, so please follow me there!
Get your tickets to the M/FW Student Collections Runway here.
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