Textured knits and tailored pieces: Oneiric is the Melbourne label offering modern wardrobe staples
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“Our silhouettes play on masculine and feminine shapes to create slick and elegant lines.”
The foundations of any well-rounded wardrobe are in the staple pieces. For some, that means high-quality denim and a couple of crisp, white button-down shirts. For others, wardrobe essentials might include a statement jacket and a pair of knee-high moto boots. There are no rules, but there is a framework – you should be able to wear your staple pieces time and time again.
For Melbourne-based designer Sandra Estepho, founder of womenswear label Oneiric, her vision for the modern wardrobe consists of “beautiful, tailored pieces that are functional, effortless and hold a sense of character”. After studying fashion design in Melbourne and honing her skills through women’s tailoring training in Rochester, England, Sandra started her own label as a “side project”.
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Almost a decade on, Oneiric is known for its handmade knitwear and sharp tailoring, with a storefront in Melbourne’s iconic Royal Arcade. Here, Sandra speaks on the label’s journey so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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I started my studies in Melbourne with a degree in art and design, majoring in fashion design. During my studies, I took part in an exchange program where I trained in women’s tailoring in Rochester, England. The program gave me skills in drafting patterns and producing tailored garments by hand. I was able to produce made-to-measure garments by the end of the course and this really sparked my love for designing coats.
This then led me to pick up internships in London, where I used my pattern-making skills. The London design scene was inspiring to me at the time and I saw a more innovative and conceptual side to the fashion industry. During this period I also started to work with a knitwear designer and I assisted in producing collections for fashion week.
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This also sparked my interest in textile design and working with wool materials. When I got back to Melbourne, I worked for a small label and decided to start my own label as a side project. Now Oneiric is my small business and we specialise in knitwear and outerwear.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
I started the label in 2017 as a side project. I was working in the industry full time but I didn’t want to give up on the design concepts I developed at uni. My final year collection for my degree was well received, and people were interested in purchasing the items presented. So I knew my designs were sellable and I had the potential to grow it into a label.
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A lot of my base collection pieces still come from the patterns I crafted in my final year. In some ways, the process of becoming a label came naturally but I definitely faced a lot of challenges… especially with finding quality manufacturers that work sustainably.
It took a long time to learn where to source the best materials and find a good rhythm with designing collections and producing them. I learnt that I couldn’t produce clothing the same way as other labels and that it was okay to do things in my own time. Focusing on a base range that can be purchased all year round was a great solution.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time?
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My main goal was to produce womenswear that was wearable but also provoked a certain mood and attitude. The textile was one of the main focuses and it was important that the fabric I used was visually interesting but also had a natural and organic look. I wanted to build a community around my work and to have a sustainable business. During this time I also developed my base patterns like the Kona Jacket and Sal Pants. These styles are still available to purchase online today.
How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
At this point, I’m ready to do a couple more capsule collections during the year in addition to the base range. During lockdown, I had time to experiment with knitwear on my home knitting machine. It was nice to create new textiles that had more of an artistic approach; not focusing on trends in fashion but building on ideas that visually spoke to me. Now the concept of knitted eveningwear really intrigues me and I’m starting to play around with those formal silhouettes.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
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We design beautiful textured knits and tailored pieces. The majority of our pieces are made from wool and deadstock materials. Our silhouettes play on masculine and feminine shapes to create slick and elegant lines.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
I’m proud of the customer base I have built around the label. I absolutely love the women I meet daily who wear my clothes. They are so inspiring and I learn so much from the people I chat with in-store. It’s also really amazing to have a store in Melbourne’s Royal Arcade; the architecture is so beautiful and it’s lovely to see our clothing in that space. I feel proud of the clothing I have shared and being able to ethically source and produce the majority of my clothing in Australia.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
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To not say yes to every opportunity and to be more selective with who I worked with. A lot of people can take advantage of new talent and promise more than they can deliver. To also not take things that go wrong personally.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
I really like the Bulley Bulley label from Brisbane. Aaizel and Amy Lawrance’s designs from Melbourne are beautiful and Karla Špetić has always been a favourite of mine.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
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It would be nice to have more fashion grants available to fashion businesses and manufacturers. The industry should focus on getting designers out into international markets because there is a lot of talent in this country that isn’t celebrated.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
I do wear a lot of my own designs and custom pieces I’ve made for myself. I recently bought a beautiful vintage leather coat from a trip to London. I have a few pieces from Nanushka, Commes des Garçons and Arsndorf.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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You can purchase an item in-store at Royal Arcade Melbourne, we are Shop 43. We also have an online store.
Anything else to add?
Just wanted to thank Fashion Journal for supporting local designers. I really appreciate it!
Browse the Oneiric collection here.
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