Toorallie is the Melbourne label creating knitwear made to stand the test of time
WORDS BY JULIA KITTELTY
“We have had customers write to us with photographs of their knitwear, going strong since the ’90s.”
Simon and Steve Smith of Melbourne-based label Toorallie know that quality takes time, practice and patience. With roots stretching back to 1825, the brand has evolved from a family-owned merino sheep stud into a modern label that celebrates the beauty of natural wool.
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Toorallie’s focus on innovation is reflected in its expert knitwear technology, which is used across all its garments to create pieces that are seasonally versatile, high-quality and made to last. Below, we chat with Simon and Steve about how the label has evolved and what it means to build a modern label within a family legacy.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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We grew up on the Toorallie farm near Bombala, rural New South Wales. This gave us a firsthand understanding of the raw materials and the layered processes that lead to the final garment, shaping our knowledge of the wool and fashion industry today.
We were in our mid-20s when we started to get involved with the brand operations… In 2004 we secured the trademark for the brand from our parents and moved the business to Melbourne where we have been co-managing ever since.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and challenges.
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Toorallie began as a merino sheep stud in 1825 and was passed down through the generations. Our parents worked across three Toorallie sheep stations producing quality wool, before evolving into a fashion brand in 1991. By the 2000s, Australian manufacturing had become uncompetitive as offshore production rose to develop high-quality garments, with increased efficiency, at a competitive cost.
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The knitwear industry was incredibly different compared to the label’s origin in 1991 – this was an early challenge but we were guided by our unwavering belief in the importance of wool as a natural fibre and its place in the Australian wardrobe. We responded by selecting wool from Australian farms accredited with the Responsible Wool Standard certification and sending this to specialist factories in Guangdong Province and Shanghai, China, to create technically innovative and purposeful garments.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
Our purpose is to redesign wool into the lives of modern people, by creating beautifully useful garments that express wool’s inimitable natural and sustainable benefits. Merino wool is a regenerative, natural fibre with self-cleaning and moisture-wicking properties (making it resistant to odour and stains) – it is at the core of Toorallie and we have evolved by innovating with this incredible fibre since 1991.
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This includes combining durable cotton with merino wool to form our Merino-Denim, or blending merino wool with brushed cotton in our loungewear. In summer we explore merino wool’s seasonal versatility by merging Supima cotton and merino wool together for a lightweight knit.
The conversation surrounding ‘sustainability’ is very present I think with every brand, but our approach is frank: the fashion industry will never be truly circular. Instead, we concentrate on making garments from the natural merino wool fibre with technical conviction and classic design. Toorallie is made to stand the test of time.
Where did the name come from?
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Toorallie (pronounced two-rally) comes from our father’s aunt’s home in Double Bay, Sydney, which was called Toorallie. When he inherited the farm he renamed it Toorallie and the brand followed suit when it was established later on.
How would you describe the brand to someone who’s never seen it before?
It is practical, innovative, expert in knitwear technology and timeless in design.
What are you most proud of in your work on your brand?
The enduring integrity of our garments. We have had customers write to us with photographs of their knitwear, going strong since the ’90s.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
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Growing Toorallie for 33 years has taught us that knowing when to evolve and be brave is based on intuition and nerve. Leading your own brand, developing what you want to say and how and understanding your customers are so valuable. And it takes time, practice and patience.
What about the Australian fashion scene needs to change?
We need to discuss our consumption of clothing, and we need a shift in mindset. Ask yourself questions like: is what I’m buying going to stand the test of time? Is the fabrication of quality, do I like the material composition and can I care for it? Can this garment be worn season after season? We need to try and buy quality over quantity. Understanding your personal style will go a long way to investing in your wardrobe, too.
Dream Australian collaborators?
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We typically take great inspiration outside of the fashion industry. We’d love to collaborate with a cinematographer to explore a narrative around the people who wear Toorallie, or the Australian wool industry, told through moving images. We’d also love to create a fragrance, tapping into a multi-sensory and refined exploration of wool.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
We both have simple and no-fuss taste. We wear a lot of Toorallie and lean towards an everyday uniform of a T-shirt and jeans with quality staples like a good leather belt or wallet.
You can explore Toorallie’s range at its flagship store in Clifton Hill or online here.
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