Herd mentality: Inside Zain Bleed’s “feminine yet contrarian” graduate collection
image via @zain.bleed/INSTAGRAM
as told to daisy henry
“A love letter to trans girls and people.”
When the word ‘sheep’ is used beyond the boundaries of a farmyard, it’s usually delivered as an insult. The word, and its surrounding imagery, has become a modern metaphor for ‘herd mentality’; of blindly following a crowd, or not thinking for oneself.
Drawing on the imagery of white clouds, shaggy textures and animal horns, RMIT student designer Zain Bleed decided to turn this symbolism on its head. Reflecting on both their own experience and broader gender norms, they decided to create their graduate collection, ‘Flying Sheep’ under this premise: that trans people can, and so often do, transcend the herd.
For more fashion news, shoots, articles and features, head to our Fashion section.
Inspired by hyper-feminine aesthetics, sheep and wing motifs, Zain’s collection has become a love letter to trans girls and trans people. “Theres a campiness to the styling and accessories that comes with referencing animals so literally, like models sporting horns and lambs’ ears,” they explain.
Developing a collection, however, comes with its own challenges. “I wish I had known not to try and please everyone or tick these arbitrary industry boxes,” Zain reflects. Comprising of over five looks in total, the collection is voluminous and technical; “soft but edgy, feminine yet contrarian”. And in Zain’s words, learning to trust their gut has meant now, “the work feels and looks like me”.
‘Flying Sheep’ is one of many student collections that will be on display at the National Graduate Showcase as part of PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival on February 24. Held at the Royal Exhibition Building, the runway will feature 12 graduate designers hand-picked from Australia’s leading fashion institutions. It’s always an exciting glimpse into the future of Australian fashion and Fashion Journal is proud to be a long-time media partner of the event.
View this post on Instagram
Fashion Journal: Tell me about how you first got started in the fashion industry. Did you always want to be a designer?
Zain: I was four years old when I first said I wanted to be a fashion designer, which to me meant making pretty dresses. I grew up in a creative family, so I was always drawing or painting and eventually took up sewing lessons when I was eight years old. My mum was obsessed with clothes and fashion, and worked as a street photographer. I think she was a big influence on me growing up.
But I wasn’t thinking about studying fashion design at university until year 12 when I realised I’d regret it if I didn’t follow that childhood dream. Now I’m constantly finding new reasons to love fashion. It’s woven into every part of my life.
Tell me about the collection you’re showing for the NGS runway. What was your inspiration behind it?
The collection’s concept came together when I was in New York. I was really inspired visually by sheep, and their volume, texture and softness. Growing up, all my childhood toys were sheep, my favourite being a lamb with wings.
I thought of sheep and how they symbolise this idea of following blindly – a type of herd mentality and I instantly thought that the wings on my lamb could be a metaphor for not following the crowd. This naturally tied directly into my transness and speaks to the trans experience. So, the collection became a love letter to trans girls and people, adopting hyper-feminine aesthetics with sheep and wing motifs.
View this post on Instagram
What has the process been like? Have there been many setbacks or challenges along the way?
Getting here has been crazy. I have five looks in my collection, three of which were part of my graduate collection last year and two new looks. I am still busy in the process of getting things ready and sewing like a madwoman. The machine that I’ve had for years decided to call it quits last week, so sewing has been delayed, but I’m hopeful everything will be completed in the next few weeks.
How would you describe your collection to someone who’s never seen it before?
I would say the collection is like mini clouds of white and black fabric – voluminous shapes positioned around the body in different ways, with shaggy textures. There’s a campiness to the styling and accessories that comes with referencing animals so literally, like models sporting horns and lambs’ ears. Overall, the collection embodies an angelic yet distressed feeling, with some corsetry going on as well.
View this post on Instagram
What are you most proud of in your work as a designer so far?
It’s hard to say, I think there are so many parts of the collection that I’m so happy with but also so many things that I’ve learnt. I’m proud of the construction – I tried a bunch of things for the first time and tried to approach it from a couture standpoint. But I think what I’m most proud of, is that the work feels and looks like me. It’s soft but edgy, feminine yet contrarian.
What do you wish you’d known when you first started your collection?
Honestly, I wish I had known to trust my gut. I came back from my exchange earlier last year and felt like I was playing catch-up with my peers. I feel like I rushed into designs without sitting with them and exploring what I wanted everything to be. I wish I had known not to try and please everyone or tick these arbitrary industry boxes.
View this post on Instagram
Who is exciting you the most in local fashion right now?
There are so many. Cakey Sportsman is doing really interesting stuff, and I really like Gotham, Lucinda Babi, Jarrod Reid and BAAQIY. I also love all my fellow recent graduates.
I’ve had the pleasure of working with Stuart Walford and Karinda Mutabazi. They’re so lovely and encapsulate the fun, not-too-serious approach to fashion that I think is quintessentially Melbourne. And always, I have to say I love the dolls.
In your opinion, what about the local fashion industry needs to change?
Honestly, the consumer. I think recently there have been a lot new designers creating in smaller quantities with more ethical practices. I think we are starting to see people favour local business and independent creatives, certainly in Melbourne at least. There is a loyalty to that and a love for recycled, preloved garments which is nice to see, and I hope that continues to grow.
Who are your dream collaborators?
I would love to work with Dara. I’ve followed her since she was a model and have magazine clippings of her early work all over my bedroom. I guess in a similar vein, Elizaveta Podretti. Her photography style is so painterly and is some of the most excited I’ve been about fashion images in a long time. And getting to dress Alex Consani or Colin Jones would be a dream come true.
View this post on Instagram
Where do you hope to be in the next five years?
That’s the golden question. I’m still trying to decide if I want to study more or jump into work. Who knows? If I’m lucky, I’ll either working in the couture or costume space, or working in styling and filmmaking. I just hope whatever I’m doing, I’m still getting to create.
How can we see more of your work?
You can see more of my work on my Instagram and catch my fashion film at the PMFF fashion film awards screening.
Get your tickets to the NGS Showcase at PayPal Melbourne Fashion Festival here.
Liked this? You’ll love these...
