A first-timer’s guide to Bali: Where to sleep, eat and shop

For bliss and buzz.

A few weeks ago, I popped my Bali cherry. After years of people saying ‘it’s so close’ and ‘you have to go’, I finally booked a week-long working holiday with my boyfriend, which basically meant we packed our laptops and swapped Melbourne’s winter for tropical sun.

It didn’t disappoint. I fully relaxed, drank beers in the sun, ate very well and saw places I’m still dreaming about. Bali’s bigger than you think and with so many different regions, scenes and levels of chaos, having a game plan helps.

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I’m not usually the kind of traveller that opts into having a set itinerary, as I’m worried it will stop me from relaxing. But before we went to Bali, we decided to base ourselves in two spots – Nusa Dua and Uluwatu – and let the rest unfold naturally. Here are the parts we loved the most.

Where to stay in Bali

As mentioned, we split our time in Bali between two very different stays – one for the bliss, one for the buzz. 

Uluwatu
The vibe in Uluwatu is beach-town-meets-mini-city, think smoothie bowls by day, cocktails by night. Uluwatu has everything from stylish cafes, surf culture, late-night energy, and a good mix of local and international spots. 

We stayed at Prasana by Arjani Resorts (booked via Luxury Escapes), about 15 minutes from the action, which gave us a perfect mix of buzz and calm. Each villa comes with a private infinity pool and open-plan living, so you can spend entire days just floating and ordering room service.

Nusa Dua
Nusa Dua is Bali’s resort capital and honestly, we were ready for it. We stayed at Samabe Suites and Villas, also via Luxury Escapes, and it gave White Lotus without the murder subplot. Our room overlooked the ocean, the private beach was only accessible via a mountain elevator (iconic), and the spa was genuinely divine. The breakfast buffet was also unreal, offering fresh sashimi, dragonfruit smoothies and a make-your-own noodle soup bar. If you want to switch off and be horizontal for 48 hours, this is the place.

Nuanu Creative City, Tabanan
This was a bit of a wildcard but one of the most memorable stops of our trip. Nuanu is a 44-hectare ‘creative city’ about 30 minutes from Canggu (on the south coast), designed as a space for artists, entrepreneurs and curious wanderers. We went because we’re both creatives and thought, why not? 

We stayed at Oshom, a forest-meets-beach resort, where we slept in a tree-surrounded room and did yoga at sunrise, followed by an electronic dance party at night. We walked through the butterfly-filled Magic Garden, sweated it out at Lumeira (the world’s largest wood-fired dome sauna), and wandered through a multi-sensory digital art space. If you’re looking for something different, this is it.

Where to eat in Bali

Warung Lalapan Aura Jaya, Pecatu
A proper local warung (no English, cash only, menu on the wall), Warung Lalapan Aura Jaya offered one of the best meals of my life. We ordered capcay (vegeatable and chicken broth), nasi goreng with sambal, and a whole grilled fish coated in sweet chilli. Absolute fire. It was a literal roadside kitchen, with the whole family working the floor, packed with locals. They weren’t sure we’d survive the spice – we did.

Yuki, Uluwatu
Yes, a Japanese restaurant in Bali. But trust me, Yuki is sublime. In traditional izakaya style, we had delicious grilled calamari, octopus skewers, snapper carpaccio and sake-infused cocktails, all served beachfront on a dreamy stilted deck. The vibe is refined but relaxed, with interiors designed by Kōsame and Grace Plawinski in a calming wabi-sabi aesthetic. Book ahead, it’s popular for good reason.

Jimbaran Night Market, Jimbaran
If you want to eat like a local (and spend next to nothing doing it), this is where you go. Jimbaran Night Market is a bustling strip of stalls serving grilled seafood straight off the boats, satay skewers dripping with peanut sauce, banana fritters, bakso soup and fresh tropical fruit. It’s noisy, a little chaotic and completely brilliant. Expect plastic stools, smoky grills, and some of the best food you’ll eat in Bali. Go hungry, bring cash and don’t be afraid to point at things and ask what they are.

Nourish, multiple locations

If you’re picky about coffee and breakfast (hello, Melburnians), this is your safe space. Smoothie bowls, loaded toasts, good eggs, strong coffee. Nourish is a Bali franchise with multiple locations – we went to the Uluwatu one but you really can’t go wrong – it’s reliable and just the right kind of healthy.

What to drink in Bali

Bintang Radler
So, I’m not much of a beer girl but Bali changed that. Specifically, Bintang Radler changed that. It’s light, lemony, low-alc and the perfect beach-day drink, so grab a few from Circle K (Bali’s answer to 7-Eleven) for about $1 AUD and keep one on you at all times. It’s ideal for sipping on a scooter (only when you’re the passenger princess), between swims, or while browsing markets. Consider it your new travel essential.

Uluwatu Fish House, Uluwatu
Hands-down the best cocktails I had all trip were at Uluwatu Fish House. We tried a marg, a negroni and a daiquiri, but the Moscow Mule (fresh lime and real ginger) was unmatched. The vibe is laidback but stylish, with live jazz or soul, comfy garden seating and a menu that’s way more than bar snacks (think sushi rolls, salad bowls, fish tacos and a choose-your-own catch of the day). Come for a drink, stay for dinner. Then stay for another drink.

Kelly’s Warung, Bingin Beach
Part beach shack, part café, part surf lookout and an essential Bingin experience. Perched on the cliffs, Kelly’s serves fresh juices, smoothie bowls, icy Bintangs and big spritzes, all with a front-row seat to the beach below. From 3 to 5pm, happy hour gets you a bucket of Bintangs for $10 AUD. We stayed for the sunset, had a swim between beers, and took our cocktails down to the sand. It’s that kind of place.

Treat yourself

Balinese massage
Don’t leave without getting one. Not only are they great for relaxation, they’re incredible for digestion too. Honestly, if I could get one weekly, I’d be a new woman. 

Custom-made accessories
You’ll find plenty of places offering handmade leather goods, from heeled mules to sandals, to colourful snakeskin shoulder bags and designer dupes. There are specialty stores in every Balinese shopping strip that can custom-make your dream piece in just a few days. I didn’t stay long enough in one spot to commit, but next time I’m coming home with a suitcase full.

Practical things to know

Get your Indonesian visa sorted beforehand
Apply online for a Visa on Arrival (VoA) via the official site. It’s around $50 AUD and valid for 30 days, with the option to extend. If you forget, make sure you bring cash – the airport card machines are famously unreliable.

Download the Grab app
It’s like Uber and Uber Eats in one but better. Download Grab so you can book cars, order food, drinks, groceries, even pharmacy runs. Essential if Bali belly hits and you need Pocari Sweat (God-tier electrolytes) delivered to your door.

You will probably get Bali belly but you will be okay
As someone with raging hot girl tummy issues, of course, I got Bali belly. I’m not sure it can be avoided but I found that it’s best to be aware, not anxious. It’s out of your control. But if you do feel cramps coming on and have to spend the afternoon on the toilet, order some Pocari Sweat ASAP, eat lots of plain rice and sleep it off. 

The writer was hosted by Luxury Escapes and Oshom for this trip. 

For a more extensive travel guide to Bali, try this.