How I Got Here: The Founder of New Zealand accessories label Yu Mei on learning as you go
Words by Kate Streader
“Get stuck in, say yes, have grit, have grace and remember that no one knows what they’re doing until they’re doing it.”
Have you ever stalked someone on LinkedIn and wondered how on earth they managed to land that wildly impressive job? While the internet and social media might have us believe that our ideal job is a mere pipe dream, the individuals who have these jobs were, believe it or not, in the same position once, fantasising over someone else’s seemingly unattainable job.
But behind the awe-inspiring titles and the fancy work events lies a heck of a lot of hard work. So what lessons have been learnt and what skills have proved invaluable in getting them from daydreaming about success to actually being at the top of their industry?
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Welcome to How I Got Here, where we talk to women who are killing it in their respective fields about how they landed their awe-inspiring jobs, exploring the peaks and pits, the failures and the wins, and most importantly the knowledge, advice and practical tips they’ve gleaned along the way.
This week we talk to Jessie Wong, the Founder and Creative Director of New Zealand luxury leather goods label, Yu Mei. Founded in 2015 in Dunedin, Yu Mei was born out of necessity when Jessie couldn’t find a design-conscious bag to carry her daily essentials. From there, the label has blossomed into an internationally renowned brand.
Using quality, sustainable materials is at the forefront of Yu Mei’s designs, alongside aesthetics and practicality. Crafted from locally-sourced deer nappa, Yu Mei’s bags maintain a low ecological footprint by utilising by-products from the venison industry. But running a thriving accessories label comes with a whole host of challenges and steep learning curves. Here’s everything Jessie’s learnt along the way.
What do you do and what’s your official job title?
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I’m the founder and Creative Director of Yu Mei, a luxury leather goods label from Aotearoa, New Zealand.
Take us back to when you were first starting out. Did you study to get into your chosen field, or did you start out with an internship/entry-level role and climb the ladder? Tell us the story.
I didn’t do too much climbing before I jumped into my own thing, but I did come over to Sydney in the final year of my degree to intern for Akira Isogawa for eight weeks. I learnt how to craft his signature spiral shibori and steamed many garments! At home, I also interned for Karen Walker and Twenty Seven Names.
I started Yu Mei because I couldn’t find a bag that would fit everything I needed in a day. As a student in a walking city, I hated the clunky experience of canvas totes to carry your laptop, lunchbox, chargers, visual diaries – the kitchen sink! Women’s handbags at the time were very much stuck in the blueprint of society from 100 years ago, big enough to carry your lipstick or love letters.
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I started by creating a bag that was based on the pattern of a (now extinct) supermarket shopping bag, a utilitarian item designed to bear weight. It was named after my friend Braidy who would lug everything to the library and overstuff her bag. That design went on to become loved by students around the country. From there, I continued to design bags after the personalities of people close to me that had a need that wasn’t being met, so design solution has always been the genesis of inspiration for Yu Mei’s core ranges.
On the other side of the coin, I started working with New Zealand deer nappa, a regenerative material from our land. We’re the only country in the world where deer are a non-CITES species, and their skins, if not used for leather, are a by-product of existing industries in Aotearoa and would otherwise be waste. They’re buttery soft and the perfect hybrid of cowhide and lambskin – both strong enough for those laptop-toting bags but with a buttery soft in-hand feel. Tanning is a fascinating industry, and Yu Mei has a strong vision for the future of regenerative leathercraft.
What challenges/hurdles have you faced getting to where you are now? Can you tell us about one in particular?
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All sorts! Running a business is best surmised as going from fire to fire with optimism – but when it hums, it’s the most satisfying experience. In 2019 our tannery, New Zealand Light Leathers, closed down. I knew it wouldn’t be good news when I picked up the phone, and the whole board was on the line. This is where I credit the success of our supply chain to the strong relationships we’ve built with our suppliers. Barry, Gary and the NZLL team set us up with a list of tanners who might (might!) be able to take on the role of tanning finished New Zealand deer.
I travelled for four months to the US, Italy, China and Japan to find a tanner willing to take on such a specialised task. It was challenging to fly 40 hours, just to be yelled at in Italian. That isn’t a fun experience, but we got there and have one of the only supplies of deer nappa globally today.
What’s the best part about your role?
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It’s no walk in the park, but it’s fun and very rewarding. I decided to be in fashion because of the journey that building a range takes you on – you’ll never be doing the same thing two days in a row. From research and concepts to toiling, patternmaking, supply chains and manufacturing to photography, sales, retail, markets and launches, you get to work across a full breadth of areas in bringing a collection to life. And as you grow, you begin to learn how to build a business on top of that. The challenges are always new, and there is constantly something to learn. That’s what I love about my role.
What would surprise people about your role?
I know people always say this, but it’s not very glamorous – maybe for five per cent of the year when you’re hosting a show or presenting at fashion week. Leather is a tough craft, and you’ll probably end up with a lot more callouses on your hands than anticipated!
What skills have served you well in your industry?
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Public speaking is a skill that I think is underrated and has consistently served me well. From primary school to university, there was an emphasis on developing good public speaking skills. If you can’t sell your product, who will?
What advice would you give to someone who wants to be in a role like yours one day?
Take the opportunities – get stuck in, say yes, have grit, have grace and remember that no one knows what they’re doing until they’re doing it. You’ll learn along the way.
What about a practical tip?
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Be kind and respectful to everyone you work with, be inquisitive, and build real relationships – it’s much more fun to collaborate with those around you rather than compete.
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