How to revive your old jewellery, according to experts
image via @agmesnyc/instagram
words by lara daly
New again.
I’ll be honest, I’ve never cleaned my jewellery once in my life. I put it in the same category as polishing leather loafers, or cleaning out the contents of my bag like the mother in Amélie – a Sunday afternoon activity for the bourgeoisie.
I always seem to carry a bit of filth; cat hair on my jumper, grease on the lens of my sunnies, crumbs in my fringe. Fortunately, I’ve been life-long friends with a jeweller, who’d often get so disgusted at the grubby state of my rings and earrings, she’d take them off me and return them a few days later, gleaming like new.
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I never knew exactly what she did to make them sparkle again. As it turns out, cleaning your jewellery is actually very easy – and satisfying – to do yourself. After consulting two expert Australian jewellers, I now feel equipped to tackle the collection of vintage rings and necklaces gathering dust in my room.
How to clean and polish silver jewellery
“Silver naturally tarnishes over time when it reacts with air and moisture, this is why sterling silver is actually meant to be worn, not stored,” explains Isabelle Sidd, the Sydney-based founder of Love Isabelle. “The oxidation process mostly happens when pieces sit unworn, so silver is one of the only metals we genuinely recommend wearing as often as possible, rather than keeping tucked away.”
Isabelle says the easiest way to clean silver is with a soft polishing cloth specifically made for silver. “If a piece needs a deeper clean, warm water with a small amount of gentle dish soap and a very soft brush (like a baby toothbrush) works well.”
“Rinse thoroughly and dry completely with a soft cloth. For pieces worn often, a gentle clean every few weeks and an occasional polish when you notice tarnishing is usually enough.”
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Melbourne-based jeweller Jasper Agostini of Agovia prefers the two-cloth method: “The first cloth, impregnated with polishing compound, lifts tarnish, and the second buffs back the shine.” How often you should clean your silver pieces depends on wear and storage, but a quick polish every few weeks to every few months is usually enough.
For care, he recommends storing silver pieces in a jewellery pouch or closed box to limit exposure to air and humidity.
How to clean gold jewellery
Gold is an inert metal, meaning it doesn’t tarnish in the way silver does. That said, lower-carat gold contains more alloy metals (often silver and copper), and pieces can lose brightness over time due to everyday residue from things like skincare, soap and general grime.
Jasper recommends a polishing cloth designed for gold to bring back lustre quickly and safely. “As a general rhythm, a light polish every few months keeps gold looking crisp, with spot cleaning as needed if you wear it daily,” he says.
If you’re dealing with a really grubby piece, “a soak in warm water with mild dish soap for about 10 to 15 minutes, followed by a gentle brush around any settings, will usually restore its shine,” says Isabelle. Remember to rinse it well and dry off with a soft cloth.
How to refresh dull stones in jewellery
The piece of jewellery I’m most intimated to clean myself is a silver family heirloom ring I wear daily, set with a large smoky quartz. I’m not careful with it and the stone has definitely seen better days.
According to Jasper and Isabelle, the dullness I’m noticing is simply build up. “Oils from skin, sunscreen, hand cream and soap film can sit under and around stones, especially in settings that trap residue,” Jasper explains.
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His go-to is an ultrasonic cleaner, which uses microscopic bubbles to lift grime from hard-to-reach areas. Small at-home ultrasonics are widely available now (I found this one for $30 from Kmart), but he warns they’re not suitable for every gemstone.
“Avoid ultrasonics for fragile or included stones such as emeralds or tanzanite. Harder stones like diamonds, sapphires, and rubies generally respond beautifully and look noticeably brighter after a clean.”
For delicate pieces, Isabelle says a gentle soak in warm, soapy water with a soft brush behind the stone can make a big difference. “The key is cleaning the underside of the setting, where residue tends to collect. Once rinsed and dried, most gems will regain its sparkle!”
What not to do when cleaning jewellery
The most obvious advice is to treat gemstones as the naturally fragile materials they are. Avoiding harsh chemicals like bleach, chlorine and fake tan is a good idea. You should also steer clear of abrasive pastes, aggressive scrubbing and cleaning cloths with texture which can scratch metal if not used correctly.
“A small habit that makes a big difference is applying lotions and sunscreen before you put jewellery on, not after,” advises Jasper.
Finally, wear fine or delicate pieces with consideration. “Some styles and stones aren’t designed for daily wear, and giving jewellery a rest can dramatically extend its life,” he says. “Well-made pieces can last decades, but periodic care and addressing early signs of wear – loose claws, rattling stones, thinning bands – is what keeps them heirloom-grade.”
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