Vintage sportswear is on the rise, here’s how to find it secondhand

Activewear is loosening up.

If we’ve learnt anything from fashion’s never-ending trend cycle, it’s that the old eventually becomes desirable again. Still, few could have predicted that activewear, a category long dominated by high-performance Lycra sets and rigid uniformity, would see so much change.

Last year, we asked activewear founders if the ‘reign of leggings’ was really coming to an end, and in one of our most-read styling stories, we interviewed Pilates teacher Georgia Lucy about her ‘wearing anything but Lycra to teach Pilates’ TikTok videos. Rather than a matching set, Georgia’s uniform of choice featured a lightweight shirt and cotton track pants.

For more on the circular economy, head to our Pre-Loved section.

While balletcore continues to have a moment, we’re also noticing a rise in retro sportswear. Think loose, three-quarter pants, Nike tanks in bright colours, long white socks, vintage T-shirts, zip ups and cropped hoodies. Basically anything Addison Rae has been photographed wearing.

This change isn’t about replacing your wardrobe with something new but embracing the worn-in. Personally, we couldn’t be happier to see exercise dressing loosening up, embracing personality and – in good news to us all – secondhand style.

Retro activewear muses

Like all the best parts of the ’90s, Carrie Bradshaw is the blueprint when it comes to styling vintage activewear. A zip up jacket, cropped track pants and takeaway coffee, and you’re good to go.

Venturing into the naughties, Jessica Alba’s Honey character is another key reference, alongside the classics: JLo, Beyoncé and Britney, of course. This era was punctuated by paparazzi shots of celebrities sporting matching track suits, Juicy Couture velour, low-cut v-necks and slouchy off-shoulder tops. Whether they were actually en route to the gym is anyone’s guess, but the appeal lies in the fact that such styles are made to be worn anywhere, on any kind of errand.

Where to find vintage activewear

Vintage athleisure is, by definition, less about buying into newness and more about going straight to the source: op-shops. Content creator Elsa Rae recently shared a vintage activewear haul with her followers, including cotton capris, with her most expensive find costing just $7. Beyond the aesthetic appeal, shopping pre-loved offers a low-cost way to experiment with new styles, while keeping clothing out of landfill.

Alongside your local Savers or Vinnies store, you can also hit up Swop, Goodbyes, Mutual Muse or Reunion Store if you’re after a slightly more curated secondhand offering.

Or, you can head online to a resale platform, like Depop and eBay. If you’re after the retro aesthetic, popular search terms include ‘vintage track pants’, ’90s sportswear’ ’90s streetwear’ and ‘tennis wear’. You can also add a simple ‘vintage’ alongside the name of any classic brands, like Nike, Adidas, Puma and Reebok.

A note on hygiene

For the more germ-conscious, secondhand anything can raise concerns about lingering bacteria and other pathogens. Pair that with vintage activewear (garments likely worn during sweaty workouts) and it can cause a shudder. And there’s some truth to it: areas more prone to sweat, such as underarms and the groin, can harbour higher levels of microbes.

This is why washing your pre-loved pieces properly is key. The rule of thumb is that the hotter the better (60 degrees is considered ideal). A cool wash likely won’t be enough, so keep it hot and add detergent. It can also be worth washing your haul separately to your regular load, and if you want to be extra cautious, soak it in boiling water with antibacterial laundry detergent for a few hours before putting it in the machine.

Once you’ve exorcised the ghosts of prior wearers, you can be a little more relaxed. If you’re wearing your vintage gear to a hot mat Pilates class or out on a run, it’ll naturally accrue more sweat and need more regular washing than say, a relaxed walk or yoga class. Lighter fibres, like cotton, also require less washing, while synthetic materials (particularly polyester), tend to hot more bacteria. Put them on a cold cycle after each use and dry in the shade.

If anything, be playful

The common denominator in shifting approaches to athleisure (and fashion trends in general) seem to stem most from the desire to shake things up. Working out has long been synonymous with strict, regimented routines and restriction, so the idea of loosening up (in terms of colour, silhouette, style), feels almost subversive.

For more on vintage sportswear, try this.