This is how to add active ingredients to your skincare while keeping your skin barrier intact

Advice from an expert. 

Four years ago, even the skincare-obsessed might’ve hesitated if you asked about the function of retinol. Now, thanks to the internet, there’s a myriad of functional product ingredients (squalene, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid) we’re privy to. But being familiar with the names and understanding the real impact of these ingredients on your skin are two very different things. 

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Overdoing it on powerful exfoliants can cause a pH imbalance in your skin, weakening the all-important protective skin barrier. Australian Cosmedical skincare range O COSMEDICS is formulated with ‘the highest respect for skin’, offering products that utilise active ingredients (or actives) to keep your skin barrier healthy. Below, industry expert and the founder of O COSMEDICS, Maria Enna-Cocciolone, speaks more on actives, the skin barrier and preserving your skin health. 

What is the skin barrier and why is it so important for our skin’s health?

The skin barrier is a critical protective mechanism, also known as the lipid barrier and the skin’s natural moisture barrier. Given that the skin is the body’s largest organ, it protects the body from external stressors such as (but not limited to) infections, chemicals, pollution, UV damage and allergens.

It supports water retention in the body and aids in transporting nutrients to the skin. Suppose the skin barrier function is damaged or disrupted. In that case, it is immediately compromised and can result in compromised skin conditions, inflammation, itchiness [and] flakiness… it will trigger skin aging and compromised wound healing.

What exactly are ‘active ingredients’? Can you give some examples?

 

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Active ingredients are ingredients used in their functional dose that make skincare work. Ingredients are not active until they are used in a percentage that stimulates and triggers a physiological response in the skin, to target specific skin concerns and make a skin difference.

All ingredients can be active if they are used in their (active) functional dose. For example, Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) is not active at two per cent, yet is active at 10 per cent. Vitamin A (retinol) is not active at 0.01 per cent, yet is active at 0.5 per cent.

Before introducing actives into our skincare routine, what’s important to know?

Before adding active ingredients to any skincare routine, it is important to understand the health of your skin and the condition you are treating. Actives are very specific to skin conditions and if the skin is compromised, it will not respond well to active ingredients.

Adding one active to skin that is not prepped may cause the skin to purge; this may be seen as a reaction when it is more realistically a skin response that can be avoided with a better understanding and professional guidance.

How do O COSMEDICS products protect the skin barrier?

 

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O COSMEDICS works on the principles of corneotherapy, that is the integrity of the stratum corneum (the outer layer of the skin) and the skin barrier defence systems are maintained at all times. Our products respect the skin barrier at all times… it’s a critical focus when we are formulating.

Can you talk about skin types, and how this might affect our skin barrier?

Signs that your skin is compromised include dehydration, dryness, flakiness, redness, itchiness, and irritation… [it also] may include breakouts and fine lines and wrinkles.  These signs can be visible on all skin types, except for healthy skin.

What other lifestyle changes can we make to promote skin barrier health?

It goes without saying what you put on your skin can support or destroy your skin barrier, so making educated decisions and purchases is important. Avoid extreme temperatures and humidity… take warm showers, don’t use anything aggressive on the skin, be aware of fragrance choices, look for low-allergen scents, avoid the sun and pollution, eat a balanced diet, top up your essential fatty oils intake, drink plenty of water, support gut health and try to keep stress to a minimum.

Browse the O Cosmedics range here.