What is a ‘builder in a bottle’ manicure?

Longer, stronger natural nails and a manicure that can last for a month or more? Sign me up.

A fortnight ago, as a 29th birthday present to myself, I went to a nail salon for the first time in years. I’ve always opted for the DIY route when it comes to my nails, mainly out of laziness and financial constraints, but having had an oval-shaped SNS set (clear with blue tips, in case you’re wondering) for the better part of two weeks now, I think I’ve been converted.

I’m loving myself sick with these nails. I’m taking pointless photos just so my manicure can be featured in the shot and am generally walking around feeling like an incredibly important and glamorous woman. But the sad reality is my natural nails are weak and prone to breaking – I fear what would become of them if I doused them in potent chemicals every two weeks.

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So when a friend told me about builder-in-a-bottle manicures (BIAB), I was all ears. BIAB manicures, also referred to as ‘builder gels’, look the same as acrylic and SNS nails – plus, they’re just as strong, tend to last longer (so ultimately provide better value for money) and they don’t damage your natural nails as much.

How does BIAB work?

BIAB is a gel product, like shellac. The difference? BIAB is cured until hard under a LED light and is more durable. The versatility of BIAB is one of its big drawcards: it can be applied underneath gel polish to extend the life of your manicure, you can infill a preexisting manicure with it and it can be used to create an extension and repair broken nails.

The thick gel formula allows your manicurist to fix any small breaks in your nails and, if you’re prone to biting your nails, can be used to even out or reshape nails. And for those that are unfamiliar with what an infill is, here’s the long and short of it. BIAB can allow your natural nails to grow underneath because you don’t need to have the entirety of your colour removed when you want your nails freshened up – instead, your manicurist can use BIAB to fill in the natural nail regrowth at the base of your nail bed and reshape your nails accordingly.

Why is it better for your natural nails?

Firstly, BIAB is Five Free, meaning it’s formulated without chemicals like formaldehyde, formaldehyde resin, toluene, camphor and dibutyl phthalate. Secondly, as the BIAB removal process is much simpler, with only the outermost layers needing to be drilled before the nails can fully soak off, you’re avoiding the damage that excess drilling can cause to your nails.

While SNS and acrylic nails can also be soaked off, as it’s so time-consuming many salons opt to drill them off, which generally leaves your nails weak and brittle. The friends I’ve spoken to who’ve had BIAB manicures noticed that once they had the manicures removed, their nails were hardly damaged at all.

Unlike shellac and acrylics, BIAB nails can last for three weeks or more means you’ll be getting your nails done less (meaning less money and less trauma to your nails). And if you opt for an infill treatment, your BIAB manicure can even last for months, provided you practice proper nail care.