The difference between SNS, shellac and builder gel according to a nail technician

What’s better for your nails?

When I was 16, I went through an acrylic phase. I had a longstanding booking at my local nail salon, with plenty of disposable cash from my part-time job, and treated myself to a fresh set each month. At the time, I was obsessed but looking back, I cringe a little inside at the thought of sporting a long, square french tip.

Want to snoop inside the beauty regimes of other creatives? Head here.

I didn’t think much of it when booking. To me at the time, getting my nails done meant getting a full set of acrylics glued on, no questions asked. But 10 years later, I realise now there’s so much more on offer. From shellac to SNS, builder gel, gel polish and BIAB, I’ve never quite wrapped my head around what’s what.

To help decipher my different options when getting my nails done, I turned to Chelsea Bagan, the owner of Melbourne salon, Trophy Wife Nail Art. Below, Chelsea breaks it down, including how much each service costs and how much time to block out on your calendar.

 

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What are shellac nails?

Shellac is the original brand name for the product that is ‘gel polish’. It’s a nail polish that’s cured with LED/UV light to create a durable finish so you can leave the salon, ready to go about your day, once finished. Gel polish is applied in thin layers that are hardened under the light for around 30 seconds per coat. A gel polish costs roughly $60 to $80 and an appointment takes around 45 to 60 minutes.

What are builder gel nails?

Where ordinary gel polish (shellac) is more to add colour and durability, builder gel (or BIAB) is used to ‘build’ up the nail and create a stronger nail structure. Essentially, it’s a thick, clear or tinted gel used to add structure to your nails.

Builder gel can be applied directly to the natural nail and the gel is applied in layers. This helps to ‘build’, or sculpt in an apex to the nail, creating a stronger foundation. It’s often tinted with a sheer colour, which can be top-coated and left as is, or gel polish colour, which can be applied to finish. You’re able to go about your day immediately afterwards, without waiting for your nails to dry. The cost is around $85 to $120 for a service and it should take about one to one and a half hours. Builder gel should have a longer wear time than gel polish.

What are SNS nails?

We don’t offer SNS or acrylic nails at Trophy Wife as we’re a gel-only salon, however, SNS (which stands for ‘Signature Nail Systems’ and also known as ‘Dip System’ nails) is basically an updated version of acrylic nails. A bonding agent similar to superglue is applied to the nail before a finely milled, coloured acrylic powder. This is application repeated a few times and finished with an activating top coat. Similar to acrylic, it’s a liquid and powder system that undergoes a polymer reaction and hardens when exposed to air.

Unlike gel products, no LED/UV light is needed unless your nail tech is adding gel colour on top. SNS will commonly set you back around $50 to $90 and an appointment takes around 45 to 60 minutes.

What’s better (or worse) for your nails: SNS, shellac or builder gel?

No one product fits all. It may take a few tries to find the product that suits you, your nails and your lifestyle. No product is ‘better or worse’ for your nails.

Just like our hair and skin, each persons nail makeup is different to the next. I might have genetically thin, flexible nails but my friend might have naturally strong, long nail beds, meaning we’re likely to need different nail services. A hairdresser might like SNS for its hard wearing nature and ability to be in water, whereas someone who does a lot of typing might like builder gel for its structure and durability.

Personally, I’m not a fan of SNS and acrylic products as I don’t like the removal process. As a nail technician, I find it quite difficult and time consuming to remove, which is probably why a lot of people end up with weak or damaged nails post-SNS. In saying that, it’s more important to find a nail tech who looks after your nails with good prep and gentle removal.

Keeping up with your nail aftercare will also go a long way. You should be applying cuticle oil detail, avoid soaking your hands in water and refrain from any rough activities. Always remember, ‘jewels not tools’.

Keep up with Chelsea at Trophy Wife Nail Art here.