Melbourne label Bourgeois+61 is making high-quality streetwear for the everyday
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Leon Tran
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“I want my garments to be something special people save up for rather than something cheap that you can easily throw away.”
Growing up, Melbourne-Vietnamese designer Phoebe Thuy Trang Nguyen was surrounded by seamstresses. “I grew up watching them, especially my mum sewing in our garage,” Phoebe says. “… Even though [a garment] says, ‘Made in Australia’, does not make it ethical. I saw this first-hand when my mum used to sew.”
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Phoebe went on to study fashion but eventually left the course to regain a feeling of creative control. Two years ago, she launched her brand Bourgeois+61 – a genderless label inspired by ’90s grunge, Japanese streetwear and Asian cinema. Created to bridge between high-end luxury and affordable fashion, Bourgeois+61 creates pieces for the everyday. Below, Phoebe speaks on family, community and what’s next for her label.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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My name is Phoebe Thuy Trang Nguyen and I’m now 21 years old. I’m Vietnamese and I run a brand by myself called Bourgeois+61. I’ve studied fashion design but left the course after some time to focus on my brand. It wasn’t benefiting me anymore but most importantly, I felt it was sucking away my passion for design.
Most of my family were seamstresses so I grew up watching them, especially my mum sewing in our garage. I remember I’d help with small things when I was younger, like sewing on the tags for hundreds of garments.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
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The label started during COVID when I deferred my course since it was too difficult to learn online. especially for such a hands-on course. There were a lot of mental challenges of my family not believing in me and supporting my career. Coming from an Asian household, of course, they want you to do something more traditional like being a doctor, dentist, nurse, etc.
My mum especially didn’t see creative careers as something that earns you money and told me to throw my fashion dream away. It was hurtful, but I used it as motivation to prove to them that this dream of mine isn’t rubbish, [or] impossible, that I possess more talent than what they see me for. Although she didn’t like my career path, she still helped me the most by sewing my garments, which I’m thankful for.
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The most challenging part was not knowing what to do or where to start. I had my brand name and identity down, but since I didn’t have too much knowledge of how to sew or pattern-make garments yet (since I only just started my course), I had to figure out how to pattern-make and grade the garments I wanted. My mum helped me sew [them].
During this period, not many people wanted to start a fashion label. When I’d research, there was barely any information… which was difficult but it also taught me a lot.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
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When I first started thinking about my brand, I wanted it to be cheap for those that can’t afford to spend a lot on garments. But as time went by, I saw how much work is put into every garment and thought [my] clothes should be priced higher than what they were.
… My brand has evolved to show the behind-the-scenes of the fashion design process, from sketches to trial and error and the final product ready-to-wear. This creates a deeper connection and I feel it helps people understand why it’s priced higher than fast fashion brands. I want my garments to be something special people save up for rather than something cheap that you can easily throw away.
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Where did the name come from?
Since I was 14, I knew I wanted to do this as a career. I wanted a brand that represented the middle class – those who aren’t too well off but spend on material goods to represent who they are or how they want to be perceived. When I was in high school working on an assignment for my visual communication class, my friend helped me find the word ‘bourgeois’.
I felt bourgeois was the most fitting name to describe what I wanted to portray. The modern meaning is ‘middle class’. The +61 at the end is the Australian country code, and I added it to rep Australia… but it’d be cool if one day I were to have stores around the world, [and] it would change depending on where it was. Like Japan would be +81.
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What are you most proud of in your work on your brand?
I think I’m most proud of how far it has come [in] only two years. I feel like it’s doing a lot better than I imagined, as I thought I’d gain recognition after maybe three to four years.
I like the community it has built and how I’ve inspired those who also have parents who don’t support their career paths to push themselves into pursuing what they love.
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Who do you think is most exciting in the Australian/NZ fashion scene right now?
Definitely Dion Lee and Christopher Esber, but also the upcoming fashion brands… people are more interested in fashion because of social media.
What about the Australian/NZ fashion industry needs to change?
More diversity. More creativity, unique designs and silhouettes. More captivating set design for runways.
Not to mention better treatment towards the interns that work so hard for fashion weeks or brands and only get paid with ‘experience’.
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As well as all the seamstresses that don’t get paid enough because even though it says, ‘Made in Australia’, does not make it ethical. I saw this first-hand when my mum used to sew.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
A lot of small brands such as AAH Midnight Club, Lyuocheng, SickoKittens, Mamavirus, Tres Rasche, Dirty South and FuguiHua. Then bigger brands like Bape/Baby Milo, Dion Lee and Vivienne Westwood.
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How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can purchase it on my website, however, the website is down right now as I’m preparing for a completely new collection. Updates and sneak peek of releases are on my Instagram.
Anything else to add?
The new Bourgeois+61 will be illustrated in the next collection. I’ll be creating more complex pieces, challenging myself more with different cuts, silhouettes and fabrics… all my more colourful garments will be split into a sub-brand called Bibo.
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Bibo is a character or Bourgeois+61’s mascot, and it’ll feature more fun, cute and childlike streetwear designs – as opposed to Bourgeois+61, which will be more neutral, serious and ‘high fashion’.
Browse the Bourgeois+61 collection here.
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