How to build a capsule wardrobe, according to the Founder of Friends with Frank
IMAGE VIA FRIENDS WITH FRANK
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“Whenever I am considering adding to my core wardrobe, I always think about styling that piece in at least five different ways.”
At Fashion Journal, we love a capsule wardrobe for so many reasons. A curated selection of high-quality, versatile basics means less decision fatigue, fewer morning outfit crises and more considered purchases – to name a few. It provides a fail-safe baseline of pieces you’ll want to wear time and time again.
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Julia McCarthy, the Founder of the Australian luxury label Friends with Frank (FWF), believes capsule wardrobes aren’t meant to be restrictive or boring. “The idea is to focus on a core wardrobe of versatile pieces you love to wear and always feel good in; fail-safe pieces you’ll reach for time and time again,” she says. “This ‘less is more’ approach has endless benefits.” Here, Julia gives her top tips on building a capsule wardrobe of your own.
Tell us about your approach to design at FWF, it seems you have a strong emphasis on wardrobe essentials with longevity.
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My design approach for FWF is really just designing everything that I want or need myself! We’re driven by a timeless design aesthetic. We prioritise the use of natural fibres, working with skilled craftspeople… and a predominantly classic colour palette. This considered approach helps us create pieces that we know we’ll want to wear time and time again. Our core collection – an edit of bestselling wardrobe staples we offer year-round – is a true testament to that.
My philosophy and approach to personal dressing truly influence my design process. I’ll often sit and really think about my wardrobe [to] identify gaps, but also to acknowledge the pieces that I’m getting a lot of wear out of.
I find this results in me designing wearable pieces that really help streamline my wardrobe and… our customers. When working with my team on a new style, thinking through how… it works back with the other pieces we design, is as important as designing the piece itself.
How many pieces roughly should exist in a capsule wardrobe?
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Mine consists of around 20 core pieces. It’s easy to get carried away, but I find keeping a tight edit is key. I work off my capsule wardrobe as my base, and then use accessories and styling to take the look to where I want to wear it – whether it’s tying a knit over my shoulders, adding sunglasses or a cap, working in a more statement shoe, or changing up my bag… Continuously mixing up my styling – even if only subtly – is what keeps my base capsule pieces feeling fresh.
What items would you include in a capsule wardrobe?
While your version of a capsule wardrobe will depend on your personal style and what you gravitate towards, there are some universal… capsule items. My style is quite simple and refined so my capsule wardrobe reflects that, consisting of:
- Quality basics – an organic cotton tee, tank and long-sleeve Merino top will serve as your base layer[s] year-round
- Denim – for me, this is both a wide-leg and straight-leg pair of jeans
- Tailored trousers
- A well-cut blazer
- A coordinating top and skirt knit set – a matching co-ord will work hard for you as both a set and separates
- A lightweight coat – a trench is a capsule wardrobe favourite for a reason
- A lightweight knit – whether it’s a sweater or a cardigan, merino, cashmere or natural fibres are what I look for here
- A chunky knit
- A wool coat
- Denim jacket
- A crisp cotton shirt – mine is light blue, I love how classic it is but it offers something different from a typical white shirt
- Tailored linen shorts
- An everyday summer dress – a cotton white poplin mid-length dress has been my go-to for years
- A silk dress – I favour a bias cut here, for a piece that truly can be dressed up or down
In terms of quality, what items should we be looking to spend more on? What items can we skimp on if the budget is tight?
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Personally, my capsule wardrobe pieces are my investment pieces. It’s where I won’t compromise on quality [and] premium craftsmanship and materials do come at a cost. That being said… op shops or vintage [stores] can be a great place to look if your budget is tight. The men’s section often has a strong selection of cotton shirts and blazers, and I have some great pairs of inexpensive vintage denim [jeans] that I’ve lived in over the years.
Although I see the value in spending a little bit more on an organic cotton basic, I’m partial to a good Uniqlo tee and have a few in my rotation… For me it’s also about a ‘less is more’ approach, taking the time to save up and buy one quality investment piece that I’ll have for years.
What indicators do you look for in terms of quality?
Fabric composition is a great place to start. At FWF, we prioritise the use of natural fibres because of how well they wear over time. A wool coat or cashmere knit will also be a lot warmer and more insulating than one made from polyester. With tops and basics, a great neckline to me is a key indicator of quality. A tee with a stretched neckline is a telltale sign that it hasn’t worn or washed well.
What about durability? Should we avoid certain fabrics?
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I avoid delicate knitwear that will pull or snag easily or any pieces that require regular dry cleaning – I know I won’t end up reaching for them! Taking the time to mend and maintain the pieces in your capsule wardrobe is also essential to extending the lifespan of your capsule wardrobe. Following the care instructions properly, mending tears or buttons that have fallen off and tailoring pieces to fit you – this all helps your core wardrobe work for you in the long term.
Anything else should we prioritise in curating our capsule wardrobe?
It’s not just about ticking off the items on a capsule wardrobe checklist, and style doesn’t just happen if you’ve bought a bunch of staple pieces. For me, it’s about spending time with your capsule wardrobe, becoming familiar and confident with these pieces and workshopping multiple looks to realise the maximum potential your core wardrobe can offer you. Make your wardrobe work for you! I constantly review my capsule wardrobe in a new light.
…. Whenever I am considering adding to my core wardrobe, I always think about styling that piece in at least five different ways – that’s when I feel I can justify the purchase. Workshopping different outfits, determining your everyday uniform and not being afraid to outfit repeat is just as important as the curation process itself.
For more capsule wardrobe tips, head here.
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