New Zealand-born designer Rose Murdoch wants you to reimagine how you wear clothing
Photographer – Sam Khoury
Stylist – Letizia Guarino
Makeup – Stevie Squire
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“I aim to re-understand conventional clothing tropes.”
Wellington-born designer Rose Murdoch has always been inspired by the creative people in her inner circle. Growing up, she learnt to sew from her mum, who was taught by their seamstress grandma. The beginnings of her eponymous label were burgeoning when she started selling dresses locally and shooting lookbook photos in collaboration with close friends.
After her move to London, Rose’s kitschy, nostalgic pieces started selling exclusively on Ssense, which is how she was “really able to transition into a business”. But even now, it’s the “superstar friends” she works alongside who have really helped Rose build her brand to the conceptual collection it’s become today.
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At its core, Rose Murdoch is largely about examining how we wear clothing. Her pieces take notes from London youth subcultures and the DIY fashion movement, using bold digital prints, tongue-in-cheek graphics and unconventional materials (like the PJ Harvey Rules Belt). Below, Rose tells the story of the label so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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I grew up in Wellington, [and] when I was young my mum taught me how to use a sewing machine – she had learnt from my grandma who had been a seamstress. I was totally obsessed, [and] learnt through making all the time. Around when I finished high school, I started to sell dresses within NZ, playing around with shooting with friends and hosting… presentation[s].
I made the move to London and was working and interning. Through my internship, I was able to become a studio manager. Being able to learn on the job was invaluable to gaining an understanding of the industry. During lockdown, I started doing made-to-order pieces.
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It was at that point Ssense reached out to stock and what I was doing… [was] really able to transition into a business! And since 2022, I have been creating seasonal collections, working together with superstar friends to build the label!
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
It’s an independent womenswear label creating seasonal collections based in London. I aim to re-understand conventional clothing tropes, to develop on how people wear and enjoy clothing!
What do you think is most exciting in UK/NZ fashion right now?
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I think there is a real excitement around sharing physical spaces, whether that’s new shops opening or special events. People are happy to be touching and experiencing clothes in new ways. In March, we did a showroom/sample sale in London.
People wearing the clothes is the best part of what I get to do! It was like the joy… before you go out, getting ready with friends [and] playing and trying things on spread out over two days, very special!
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When I was in high school, I was able to intern for a wedding dress designer for a day a week. She told me about when they had first started up, [and] all of Cuba Street was Wellington designers with shops on the street and their factories producing upstairs in the same buildings.
For many reasons, this kind of structure is no longer feasible. But I often fantasise about different ways to make, sell and take up space moving forward, which I think is super exciting!
Dream Australian/NZ collaborators?
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There are so many! Megan Alexander is a great friend and a true mastermind. Meg sees the world with so much beauty and captures it in such a vulnerable and vivid way. I’ve been working with Meg since first making clothes, [and] seeing the way she shoots has really shaped what I make.
What is in your wardrobe right now?
All sorts! Often I wear my samples and new shapes to see what they feel like on and [so] can work on developing them based on what is feeling right. It ends up being the majority of what I’ve got on! But recently also wearing bodysuits, ’80s dresses or blue jeans.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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My last two seasons are online with Ssense, I also sell directly to customers on my website and will be stocking AW23 with Shop Kathleen!
To browse the Rose Murdoch range, head here.
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