Ess.Bee is the ‘if you know you know’ slow fashion label out of Melbourne
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ELLA MAXIMILLION
WORDS BY MAGGIE ZHOU
Utilitycore.
Anyone who’s a keen op shopper knows the failsafe sections to beeline towards. The knitwear rack often holds some great, natural fibre gems, the lingerie corner hides versatile slip dresses and the men’s section boasts quality button-up shirts. Melbourne-based designer and maker Steph Bourke knows this well.
The Founder of Ess.Bee, a four-year-old slow fashion label, found her sartorial voice by “play[ing] around with pieces [she] got from the op shop and mak[ing] them into something new”. Having dropped out of fashion school three times, Steph isn’t someone who follows the expected route.
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As well as accepting custom orders, her signature deconstructed menswear collections are released in small runs of one-of-one pieces. Here, Steph details the journey of her label so far.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
I actually couldn’t stand sewing when I was young. I think I dropped out of at least three fashion courses after high school. When I moved to Melbourne from Perth in 2012, my love for expressing myself and finding my unique style started to grow and I started to meet a lot of people in the industry. I decided to give uni one last shot and finally completed a degree in fashion design at RMIT.
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How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
I’ve never really had any business model or plan to make Ess.Bee grow, it all just started quite naturally. At uni, I would just play around with pieces I got from the op shop and make them into something new. I made this top and all my friends wanted one and then people just started reaching out for custom orders so I decided to make an Instagram and just see what happened!
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What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time?
For me, Ess.Bee has always been my creative outlet… If I can’t find something that I’m looking for, then I will create it myself. Chances are there are other people out there who are looking for the same thing. I love working with men’s suits and shirting and turning [them] into something a bit more fun.
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How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
I have decided to go the other way with Ess.Bee and slow it right down for the moment while I figure out what my next step is. Currently, I do small runs of one-of-one pieces and custom orders which are all handmade. I think it’s important for people to make more considered purchases with all the overproduction and overconsumption of clothes these days. There’s something quite special about owning a garment that you know no one else will have.
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Where did the name come from?
The name is a play on my initials. My mum was the one who had the idea to stylise it that way for my brand and, well, she named me so I guess we can say it was all her idea.
How would you describe your brand to someone who’s never seen it before?
I like to keep my ethos very simple. Clothes that are mindfully made and meant for all.
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What are you most proud of in your work on your brand?
I would say that I have always been very true to myself and the brand. I’ve never really jumped on the latest trends and in turn, that means that the garments I sell will last longer than a season in someone’s wardrobe.
Who is most exciting in the Australian and New Zealand fashion scene right now?
There are so many designers coming out of Australia and New Zealand now and it’s nice to see that every brand has a strong sense of individuality. I think Kahe is a brand that has such a strong identity and is going to do big things.
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How can we buy one of your pieces?
I always welcome custom orders through my Instagram and you can find me online and at Sucker in Melbourne.
To keep up with Ess.Bee, head here.
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