Aotearoa label Itchy makes intuitive knitwear out of recycled materials
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOU CORRY
WORDS BY MAGGIE ZHOU
Boxy vests, cosy sweaters and perfect balaclavas.
Being bundled in uncomfortable and scratchy knitwear is a fate I wouldn’t wish upon my worst enemy. It goes against everything woolly items promise: cloud-like comfort and ultimate cosiness. Out of Tāmaki Makaurau (Auckland) in Aotearoa, Allie Buckley creates ultra-soft, one-of-a-kind knitwear.
Under the ironic name Itchy, her label offers Australians and New Zealanders unique pieces made from recycled mohair and other natural, repurposed fibres. Vests that read “Dump me where the weed decays” and multicoloured sunset jumpers make up some of her past pieces. But don’t ask her to recreate the same one twice.
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You see, Allie doesn’t read or write knitting patterns. Instead, she intuitively makes up each piece in her head. It’s why the entire process of sourcing materials and planning designs to handknitting and photographing an item can take her a week for one piece. To hear more about Itchy, we sat down with Allie for a chinwag.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
I grew up in Whanganui (small-town vibes) where I [completed] a Bachelor’s degree in fashion design. I moved to Naarm for three years but really struggled to find opportunities in the fashion scene. I then moved to Tāmaki Makaurau where I really [got] things like I wish I’d been able to in Naarm. I’ve always loved what Kiwi designers do, so it’s cool to be fully immersed [here]. Everyone has your back.
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How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
I spent eight weeks in the first lockdown with my incredibly crafty mother. She taught me how to knit, we watched heaps of TV shows and we even got super into running and HIIT workouts! I’ve honestly been so obsessed with knitting ever since and I can’t stop creating.
The process of starting [my] label kind of came down to supply and demand. I made [my Instagram account] Itchy so my friends [wouldn’t] get sick of me posting my projects on my personal account. It grew from there and I thankfully found my niche market.
The biggest challenge and biggest joy for me is being my own boss. I love going at my own pace but some days that is super slow. My other biggest challenge is how [time-consuming] the creation of each garment is. I hand-source the yarn secondhand, carefully plan the design, knit each piece myself, stitch on the Itchy label and then photograph each piece thoughtfully. Sometimes this process can take up to one week for just one knit.
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What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time?
It was a creative outlet and stress relief practice for me during a very hectic time in the world and in my own life. It was a fun way to give inspiration to my friends while also absorbing inspiration from the creative community [around] me. I also just really wanted to knit myself a million fuzzy pieces.
How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
Not much has changed if I’m being honest. I create things out of repurposed materials which makes each piece super rare and special. I create things my friends and I would wear. I want to stay true to my sustainability practice and promote slow fashion ethos. Clothing is made to be cherished, investing in quality pieces means you can have them for life. I love giving yarn another chance to thrive!
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Where did the name come from?
Itchy is a fun play on the fact my knits are super soft and cloud-like. They aren’t itchy at all.
How would you describe your brand to someone who’s never seen it before?
Endlessly fun, one-of-a-kind knitwear that is handknitted using recycled mohair and other natural yarns that other knitters are done with. [Think] interesting colour combinations in boxy vests, cosy sweaters and perfect balaclavas. I’m just a knitwear nerd making my dreams a reality.
What are you most proud of in your work on your brand?
I’m really proud of my ability to express a unique vision in each new creation. I don’t read or write knitting patterns, I make each piece up in my head as I go. I’m also pretty impressed with myself for being a one-gal band. It takes a lot of courage to start a brand (imposter syndrome is a real thing) and the fact that I’m still doing it a year later is proof enough that it was worth taking the plunge. Kiwis have a hard time saying out loud how proud they are, but I truly am proud of Itchy.
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What do you wish you had known when you started?
Burnout can creep up on you. There was a month or two when I couldn’t bring myself to create. After a few summer moana [sea] swims and a trip to Tokyo, I felt super inspired and geared up again! I also wish I knew how lonely it can [get] working for yourself. I make sure to meet up with other creatives often and always try to have a collaboration in the works.
Who is most exciting in the Australian and New Zealand fashion scene right now?
The scene is so exciting right now! Princess accessories from Caitlin Snell, the most intricate knits made by Welcome To Babeville, the perfect goth uniform from JPalm, the tattoos and clothing of Rīhari Warnock and Juju Tattoos, and iconic bags from Yu Mei.
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These people inspire me so much and whether they are making fashion pieces or not, they are integral to the talent scene. Post Sole Studios in Naarm has always [created] my favourite footwear and Seb Brown is my dream jeweller.
What about the Australian and New Zealand fashion scene needs to change?
There is still a lot of mahi [work] to be done in the fashion scene. It’s still cliquey and a lot of opportunities are given to those who are willing to sacrifice their own wellbeing to climb up the career ladder.
I love hard work when I’m in the right space for it, but making an industry so cutthroat people are now normalising mistreatment just feels so wrong to me. Stop [saying] your business [is a] family – it can be a toxic thing to say and if someone wants to be professional in their work environment they should be able to. Boundaries are so important!
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How can we buy one of your pieces?
You can buy a knit or tee from itchy.co.nz. I ship to Aotearoa and Australia. You can also find Itchy at Found Store in Hamilton or the Slug pop-up in Wellington. Feel free to DM me on Instagram if you have any questions.
Explore the world of Itchy here.
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