New Zealand label Mahsa is challenging the fast fashion cycle with its considered designs

“It plays on the duality of masculine and feminine, romantic and utilitarian, and is designed to transcend fleeting trends.”

For Auckland designer Mahsa Willis the catalysts to launch her eponymous label were “motherhood” and her “mid-century house in the bush”. Browsing the label’s relaxed ‘moods’ (not collections), it makes sense. Mahsa crafts clothing for slow and thoughtful living, like floaty, slightly sheer cotton blouses and relaxed linen suit pants.

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Prior to launching the label in 2015, Mahsa had no formal fashion training but had worked in the industry before pursuing a film and advertising career in Amsterdam. Settling down back in Auckland, she wanted to create something timeless and seasonless, something to “cut through the noise of fast fashion”. Below, Mahsa tells the story of the label so far.

Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?

I have no formal education in fashion, but I worked in fashion leading up to my university degree, throughout my degree, and during my travels. I then embarked on a career in film and advertising in Amsterdam and then back home in Aotearoa. Long story short – everything is relevant, and your passion never leaves you.

How did the label get started? Talk to us about the process and the challenges.

Motherhood and my mid-century house in the bush were the catalysts. I had babies, and my partner at the time had just started an ad and design agency. I had two children and freelancing was hard for them as my partner worked long hours. I decided to start and grow something as the children grew, something I was passionate about.

Fashion was frustrating at the time, as I liked super expensive high-fashion brands with hefty price tags even though they were irrelevant to my life and lifestyle. I dreamt about starting something timeless, seasonless, forever and based on the ‘capsule wardrobe’ idea. Made in Aotearoa/New Zealand, my volumes could be smaller, and pre-ordering was one of my earliest ideas to gauge quantities and thus avoid oversupply.

What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time?

I was intent on creating simple pieces with forever in mind to cut through the noise of fast fashion and the notion that something is redundant after one season.

How has this evolved, and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?

Over time you become more commercially savvy; the art form is infused with the need to run a business. We are adding layers to our mood model, responding to the environment. Our Mahsa Classics are our forever styles, our Mood is our new offering which we do every two years, we are adding an Essentials layer, and we have an Archive Edit that we add when we feel inspired to do so…

This keeps things exciting and dynamic for our customers. We are also balancing this with the need to be environmentally accountable, making things locally, using natural fibres and using other designers’ deadstock (fabrics big fashion houses no longer want and sell on) – we are also using as much certified organic cotton as possible. We keep our operations small and our footprint light. We welcome our customers into our showroom.

How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?

Mahsa Label is romantic armour for openhearted women to explore their lives; it plays on the duality of masculine and feminine, romantic and utilitarian, and is designed to transcend fleeting trends and, in doing so, challenge the fast fashion cycle. When you put something on, I like that the garment feels familiar to you.

Where did the name come from?

It is my name, and it means ‘like the moon’ in Persian. It just felt right.

What are you most proud of in your work on your label?

How I make women feel: uplifted, empowered, beautiful and at ease with themselves.

What do you wish you knew when you started?

How hard it is to keep up the momentum and enthusiasm – adventure, love, and keeping inspired is the anecdote. I also live in nature and surf, which keeps me connected to my soul… these remind me to keep things simple, as this always makes me happy.

Who do you think is most exciting in Australian/NZ fashion right now?

I would say in Australia, Matteau, Christopher Esber, Albus Lumen and Caroline Reznik. [And] local New Zealand brands: Paris Georgia, Wynn Hamlyn, Yu Mei, Benjamin Alexander, Caitlin Snell and Frisson Knits for craft, joy and pop. Also, our NZ beauty brands are really strong, [like] Emma Lewisham, Sans Ceuticals and Abel.

What about the Australian/NZ fashion industry needs to change?

Produce less waste and work out ways to do this within ‘the margin’ and growth paradigm. Or change the paradigm – we are all trying to figure this out. Also, I would say I would enjoy a little more collaboration and community within the antipodean fashion space.

Dream Australian/NZ collaborators?

Aesop.

Go-to dinner party playlist?

Currently listening to Kevin Morby More Photographs (A Continuum) – he is coming to Auckland in September.

Who is in your wardrobe right now?

Mostly Mahsa, with Sophie Buhai, Toteme, Re/Done denim, The Row, Lemaire, Levis, and vintage – lots of cool things from my past.

How can we buy one of your pieces?

My website, mahsa.co.nz.

Browse the Mahsa collection here.