“Elegant clown”: Melbourne designer Matea Gluščević is making footwear that celebrates self-expression
PHOTOGRAPHY BY MELISSA COWAN
WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT
“Couture footwear for unique beings.”
I first spotted Matea Gluščević’s avant-garde footwear creations making their way down the Student Collections Runway at this year’s Melbourne Fashion Week. Coupled with Matthew Lewis’ layer-heavy, textured designs, Matea made boots with exaggerated pointed toes and spine-like heels. Matthew and Matea were a dynamic combination on the runway, and I needed to know more about her handcrafted footwear.
Discover more up-and-coming local designers in our Fashion section.
Based in the outskirts of Melbourne, Matea is a couture shoemaker. “The process varies a lot depending on the style of shoe and with bespoke orders, it will vary a lot based on the customer’s exact desires and requirements,” she says. Characterised by angular silhouettes and heavy textural detailing – like fringe, spikes and ruffles – Matea’s work blurs the lines between fashion and art.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
View this post on Instagram
Straight after high school, I wanted to study fashion at TAFE but was discouraged from doing that and encouraged to study something more academic at university. So I tried doing a year of product dsign, but didn’t feel it was the right fit. I did a week-long internship at Mad Cortes and Nookie in Sydney just to get a taste of the industry, and I liked it.
During this time, I also ran a somewhat popular fashion blog with my friend… this was before Instagram even existed. Then I did a private dressmaking/tailoring course. And then completed a visual art degree. And then I finally studied footwear at TAFE. And did styling here and there for short films and video clips.
View this post on Instagram
This is just the fashion-related stuff though, I did a bunch of other things like dental and bodybuilding too – but that’s not really relevant. So it’s been all over the place, but all of it was worthwhile as it’s contributed to how and what I create now!
How did you get started making shoes? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
Well, the footwear course is how I got started in the field. I was motivated to do it because I already knew the fundamentals of garment construction, so when I saw footwear in the course book I was like ‘Oooh, a new skill!’ The process varies a lot depending on the style of shoe and with bespoke orders, it will vary a lot based on the customer’s exact desires and requirements.
View this post on Instagram
To give just a light overview, there are a few distinct stages of the process: designing and sourcing appropriate materials, constructing insoles, patternmaking, cutting and skiving, sewing, lasting, stiffeners, soling and finishing. So it’s quite an extended process!
The challenges for me are mostly my body, sourcing materials and everyday battles with perfectionism. Shoemaking requires long hours of standing and sitting and being hunched over a grinder or hammering – it takes a toll. and taking time to rest and stretch is really important.
View this post on Instagram
Given that most footwear is factory-made overseas, it can be hard to source quality materials and components here. Australia’s only last factory has just shut down, so that’s going to make things even harder.
What were you trying to achieve when you started? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
I’m not sure that I had any firm intention when I started, to be honest. I just wanted to make things and for people to enjoy them. This is still more or less true but has evolved a bit. I’m now more directly trying to communicate fun and authenticity through my work, as well as the notion that my work can be worn by anyone… it’s couture footwear for unique beings.
How would you describe your work to someone who’s never seen it before?
View this post on Instagram
Elegant clown?! Something like that. Like if you were in a dream where you can’t exactly see what your shoes are but you know they’re something a bit unusual and then you look down and you’re like, ‘Oooh cool’. When I say elegant clown, I mean elements of playfulness, always with something more refined thrown in. Whether the refinement is in the finishing, materials or a design feature, it’s always there… A lot of [my] inspiration is taken from nature and materials.
What are you most proud of in your work?
I’m most proud of the fact that all of my work is some form of self-expression. I don’t create it to cater to trends or with the goal of making heaps of sales, I just make it because I think it’s fun and I hope other people will get to have fun with them. I’m also proud of the fact that I make all the shoes myself by hand, and I’m not supporting any part of the fast fashion industry.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
View this post on Instagram
When I started, I had so much self-doubt – I wish I had known that my work was good! And that there were people outside of Adelaide who’d love my work! I started in Adelaide and vowed I’d never leave. However, I had begun feeling like either my work wasn’t very good or I had the completely wrong audience there.
… I ended up moving to Naarm for non-business-related reasons and within three weeks of moving, I had the fashion festivals here contacting me to get me involved – I was blown away! Since then, interest in my work has grown rapidly and as a result, so has my belief in the value of my work.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
View this post on Instagram
… I’m honestly a shoemaking hermit. I’ll tell you about the people who I do know about through my work though. [I know] Nicol & Ford primarily – I’ve created footwear for two of their runways now and have been blown away by their shows each time. The attention to detail is insane, and the patience required to commit to some of their couture construction techniques is to be admired.
Not to mention the other aspects of their approach… their focus on diversity in casting and really honestly celebrating a variety of individuals and a variety of bodies. So I am really excited to see what they do next. I don’t know much about the brand but aesthetically I’m also very interested in Wackie Ju.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
View this post on Instagram
… I’d say that all fashion industries need to continue to focus on slower methods of making and here especially we should be reducing reliance on overseas production.
Dream Australian collaborators?
Maybe Romance Was Born? I guess that comes from the era of Australian fashion that I grew up in. However, the nature of my collaborative process is that I require full trust and freedom from my collaborators to create what I want – which is a fairly big ask of a label. My heartfelt thgo goes out to Nicol & Ford because they are… dream Australian collaborators for having trusted me with their shows so far!
How can we buy your work?
You can buy my made-to-order footwear on my site, mateagluscevic.com. You’ll also find one-of-a-kind runway samples there, and you can get in touch for your own bespoke pair of handcrafted shoes! I’m looking to have at least one stockist in the city in 2024 – which will most likely be Other Goods and Services on Lygon Street, so keep an eye out!
Anything else to add?
I’ll be releasing my first proper made-to-order range in January, which I’m actually very excited about! There’ll be frills, chopines, buckles and an exciting new texture I’ve been experimenting with!
You can browse Matea’s work here.
Liked this? You’ll love these...
