Not Sew New is the Naarm label transforming secondhand clothes into one-of-a-kind pieces
IMAGE VIA @NOT.SEW.NEW/INSTAGRAM
WORDS BY CRYSTAL CHOO
“Each item is one-of-a-kind and crafted to encourage a deep connection between the wearer and the garment.”
One of the most rewarding things about thrifting is the ability to curate a wardrobe that’s unlike anyone else’s. The rush of discovering a vintage gem or a new wardrobe staple hidden between the racks is thrilling (and addictive). It’s why I envy those who see the potential in seemingly unremarkable op shop finds, only to later upcycle them into something so innovative and original.
There’s just something about wearing a one-of-a-kind item. It’s eccentric, individual and the antithesis of trend culture. It’s the exact energy that the sustainable Naarm-based brand Not Sew New encapsulates so well. Each Not Sew New piece is constructed from repurposed materials, and no two items are exactly the same. Think repurposed T-shirts transformed into asymmetrical skirts, or men’s ties fashioned into a messenger bag – the ingenuity of the brand is boundless.
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Instead of subscribing to a singular aesthetic, founder Ava Lauren embraces a mix and match of styles to reflect her desire for fluidity in personal expression. Below, Ava discusses the brand’s beginnings and her goal to encourage more authenticity in the way we dress.
Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?
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My background in fashion mostly consists of years of searching through op shops throughout the east coast of Australia. I have spent numerous hours discovering different brands [and] one-off pieces… conducting my own research. Growing up in the age of social media, the fashion world has always been at the forefront of my mind, and I am constantly scrolling in search of new designers, textiles and art.
As a young person, I was never able to afford the pieces I drooled over, so I had to become an expert at creating my own expression through my secondhand clothing collection. My style changed about once a year in my teenage years, and my friends could vouch that I never seemed to find the perfect aesthetic.
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At 24, I now see my style as something ever-changing, a celebration of many different kinds of designs. I love to deeply engage with both my masculine and feminine energies, which creates a fluidity that hopes to inspire. As a queer person, fashion has always provided me with strong armour that helps me move through the world.
How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.
I was in a transitional stage in my life when I decided to start my own label. I was studying design at the time and had planned to further progress into that industry after my studies. However, I found myself at a standstill as I felt the technological bounds of graphics were never going to satisfy my itch to create.
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It was this confinement that got me back on the sewing machine to create something with the intention of selling it. From this point forward, it was full steam ahead. I received so much external motivation from my partner and friends, which helped me push through the internal cringe of being new to something.
My inner circle consisted of multiple fashion designers, and it was becoming hard to deny that my path was somewhat laid out already. The biggest challenge was myself in the early stages, and it still is. It is so difficult to commit to yourself every day and believe in your vision while the world watches.
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The financial aspect of starting your own business has also been ridiculously hard. Trying to manage your time, energy, and money while keeping afloat is a constant battle. It’s tough out there, but I wake up every day grateful for the privilege to do what I love.
What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?
The focus of Not Sew New has always been to inspire authentic expression through our unique garments and accessories. There is so much goodness in sharing my connection with fashion as something more than just clothing. It is a form of self-expression that inspires, uplifts, and empowers individuals. Each item is one-of-a-kind and crafted to encourage a deep connection between the wearer and the garment.
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Not Sew New will always be a brand that aims to provide an alternative option for people to shop sustainably. We will continue to create our own rules in the industry and provide our community with pieces that assist them in their journey of self-love and creativity.
How would you describe your label to someone who’s never seen it before?
I would describe it as an upcycling clothing project, a brand that aims to transform accessible resources into beautiful, one-of-a-kind pieces, taking a step in the right direction for the future of fashion. Not Sew New is my baby, something I hold very close to my heart. I believe it’s essential to have an intention behind your work, and I always make sure to share that with others when explaining Not Sew New.
What are you most proud of in your work on your label?
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The thing I’m most proud of is showing up for myself every day and working towards a significant goal. Starting Not Sew New has been the most rewarding project so far in my life, and I’m proud of myself for taking the leap to make something beautiful. It’s hard to imagine what life was like before the birth of my ‘baby’… I could never have imagined getting to this point. Believing in yourself and sharing your message with the world is such a powerful thing.
What do you wish you knew when you started?
I feel like I’m still at the beginning of my journey as a small label, even though so much has changed since the very start. I’m constantly reminded that the process is slow, and some days are tougher than others. I wish I knew that progress would be non-linear, that not everyone would believe in my vision, and most importantly, that I have what it takes to succeed.
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It’s great to remember that you won’t connect with everyone and that it takes time for people to trust you as a small designer. My friend once told me that when they started their brand, they wished somebody would just “tell them what to do”. This was comforting in a way that made me realise we’re all just making up our own rules. There is no specific way to do anything, and you must keep moving forward.
Who do you think is most exciting in Australian fashion right now?
This current wave of sustainable designers is what excites me the most. I am living in an incredible time where the community around me is prioritising the environmental impact in their practice. I see many small businesses using repurposed materials wherever possible, and deadstock fabric is a common topic. While I know my bubble is small and this is not the case for the majority, the surge of these values feels very promising.
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It is also incredibly inspiring to see the influence of the queer community finally being celebrated in the fashion industry. Diverse gender expression has given so much to the industry, and the strict bounds of gender presentation are finally disintegrating. Of course, this is only the beginning, but I can’t help but wonder how this influence will evolve over the next 50 years.
What about the Australian fashion industry needs to change?
The cycles of trends need to end! I’m so sick of seeing brands evolving in the same way. The pioneers of our industry have the power to persuade our communities to dress authentically. It is so sad to see businesses capitalising off the insecurities of the masses directing them to dress and buy certain things.
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I think the most powerful thing any fashion business can do is be transparent about their intentions with… clothing and attract consumers that align with their values. There should be something for everyone out there rather than something trying to be sold to everyone. Clothing should be designed with soul and give people the ability to feel empowered rather than just fitting in.
The industry should celebrate diversity in styles rather than pretend to be open to everyone. True inclusivity and communication from fashion labels are what could be a great step towards improving the industry as well as changing the lives of our customers.
Do you have any dream Australian/New Zealand collaborators?
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Spiraro, Stella Vendetta, Die Horny, Moss Tunstall, or any other designers focusing on using repurposed materials.
Who is in your wardrobe right now?
As much as I’d love to own a mile-long list of insane designer clothing, basically all my clothes are from an op shop or secondhand shops like Swop or Goodbyes.
How can we buy one of your pieces?
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On my website, through my Instagram direct messages or at Bazaar Pop-Up this weekend [in Melbourne].
Anything else to add?
I’m hosting my first pop-up this coming weekend on April 29 called Bazaar Pop-Up at Sandbox Studios. There is a curation of small designers and artists that I’m really excited to share a space with. You can find the info here.
For more Not Sew New creations, head here.
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