Melbourne designer Moira Rodriguez is creating body armour for the female form

PHOTOGRAPHY BY Wenmiao Xin for MOIRA RODRIGUEZ

WORDS BY IZZY WIGHT

“Quite delicate, yet tactile.”

Influenced by soft tailoring, organic silhouettes and the female form, Moira Rodriguez crafts garments that “allow the body to move freely while providing comfort”. In the midst of completing her Bachelor of Fashion Design (Honours) at RMIT, Moira has spent the last three years honing in on her purpose, motivation and point of difference as a designer.

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It was the concept of body armour “to provide protection to the female body” that inspired Moira’s debut capsule collection, Skin 2.0. Reflecting on these earlier works, she talks about using seamlines and voluminous silhouettes to create “armour-like archetypes”.

But for her latest project, Allure, Moira has moved in a different direction. Telling a new visual narrative, Allure uses flowing materials, adjustable details and soft quilting. “ I want my label to be the exploration of what I see within the organic body,” she says. Below, Moira reflects on her journey as a designer so far.

Tell us about you. What’s your fashion background?

My name is Moira Rodriguez. I was a student at RMIT and have completed a Bachelor of Fashion (Design). Before the course, I found myself wanting to explore the technical side of fashion and focused heavily on construction and patternmaking.

However, throughout the course, I discovered I was motivated significantly by visual narratives and concepts… [I] concluded that I want to work and create for myself in the future.

How did the label get started? Talk us through the process and the challenges.

I am still in the process of finding a consistent system for my label and figuring out what works best for me… the biggest thing that intimidates me, as someone quite new to the industry, is creating the connections and finding the manufacturers and wholesalers for things like hardware and fabric to suit my needs.

Especially since I want to delve into making custom hardware and jewellery sometime in the future. But I do know that this comes with time and research, and I will eventually get there!

What were you trying to achieve from the project at the time? How has this evolved and what are you trying to communicate through the brand now?

I was always attracted to the idea of forming body armour as a way to provide protection to the female body from objectification. In my earlier works, I did this by applying seamlines and volume-making techniques that resembled armour-like archetypes.

However, in my latest collection, Allure, I have intended to redesign these same restrictive archetypes into something that allows the body to move freely while providing comfort. Breaking free from this ideology of trapping the body in fixed silhouettes, I have drawn inspiration from garments we see in our daily routines (sleepwear/lingerie and workwear).

I was highly driven by the concept of ‘undressing’ and unravelling the body as a way to break down garment codes and their societal implications. Through a combination of adjustable, soft tailoring techniques, I aim to create garments that adapt to the natural changes of the body during its lifecycle, while allowing for the expression of our sexual and authentic selves without judgement. I want my label to be the exploration of what I see within the organic body.

Where did the name come from?

‘Moi’ is actually my nickname, which I thought would be kind of cute and easier to use since my full name always gets misspelled. However, I really think it ended up matching my brand. In a cheesy way, I also like that it also translates to ‘me’… I want everything I create to be a visual representation of my thoughts and journey as a designer and a person.

How would you describe Moira Rodriguez to someone who’s never seen it before?

Moi’s pieces are quite delicate, yet tactile. They hold a dreamy, fluid-like quality that resonates with the comfort the garments provide. [I] hope to empower the wearer by moulding to the organic body.

What are you most proud of in your work on your label?

Creatively, I really admire all the collaborators I’ve worked with and how they’ve given my garments a new narrative and storyline through the different, faces, bodies and contexts. It’s kept me motivated as a creative myself.

Garment-wise, I really do love my quilted corset. As we know, corsets are typically worn to provide a curved waist through tight lacing and boning for an expression of femininity. This piece aims to do the same without caging the body. The quilting mimics the boning whilst the binding drapes down, signifying the unlacing of the garment [and] allowing the body to feel relaxed.

A lot of time (and love) went into the production of this garment, from the quilting to the handmade binding… it encapsulates ‘moi’, aesthetically and conceptually.

What do you wish you knew when you started?

To stop being a perfectionist – not everything is going to look cute on the first try! A lot of the success I’ve had creatively has been because I’ve had a two-second idea that I was willing to explore and develop.

Who do you think is most exciting in Australian/NZ fashion right now?

I have been following Emily Watson’s journey for a while and have found her growth quite inspiring. I really love how tactile and intricate her silhouettes are… it shows the care/passion she has for her own craft, which I really admire.

What about the Australian/NZ fashion industry needs to change?

I definitely think we’re a lot better at talking about representation, however, there could be more of an application of it (especially within mainstream fashion). I feel there needs to be more transparency… within sustainability and diversity, rather than focusing on the marketing of the fashion industry.

Dream Australian/NZ collaborators?

I have constantly been stalking Ramp Tramp Tramp Stamp. Not only do I love the visual aesthetic of the brand, but I also love how each garment fits so well on different bodies and radiates such a sexy, feminine aura. I’m obsessed!

Go-to dinner party playlist?

All of Sabrina Claudio’s and Ojerime’s albums (religiously)!

Who is in your wardrobe right now?

Maroske Peech! I literally live in MP whether I’m going somewhere fancy or chilling at home. They have the sexiest and comfiest pieces.

How can we buy one of your pieces?

I am currently planning on going back to do my honours next year, but am slowly opening for commissions/customs and making some made-to-order pieces from Allure… the best way to contact me is through DMs on my Instagram.

For more of Moira’s designs, head here.